I have a corner cabinet made of red oak about ready for the staining process. I have used stainable filler and have the project sanded to 320 grit which has left a very slick and smooth finish on the bare wood. I plan to stain with Minwax polyurathane and will apply two coats.
MY questions are:
After sanding to 320 will I still need to wipe with a damp cloth to raise the grain or does sanding to a fine finish eleminate the need to do this step?
Would’t the first coat of poly raise the grain and then I can give a light sand before the second coat of stain?
How much drying time between wiping with a damp cloth and sanding?
Thanks
BT
Replies
Do you plan to stain AND polyurethane, or just poly? The filler you used - is it a grain filler or spot filler? If I am filling nail holes, etc., I generally fill them after the stain, using a meltable planer stick that matches the stain. I always wipe with water while sanding to raise the grain. You will know when it dries by the color of the wood. Water based products will raise the grain more than oil based. Whatever you use, sand or steel wool between coats.
I am planing to stain and minwax poly wipe on. I only used filler as needed on the mitered joints, knots ect. and all of my screws are hidden except two which I filled with filler.
what grit do I sand with after raising the grain? I figured 320 again and very light so as not to have the grain raise again in the staining process. Would this be correct?
BT
I hate to tell you this, but your filler will probably show up like a sore thumb. I've never found a 'stainable' filler that actually stains. I always stain first, then use a wax filler that matches the wood color after staining. When I've filled and smoothed all the bad spots, I put on at least two coats of poly and sand with a 'superfine' sanding sponge (from 3M) between coats. I don't like using steel wool because it can leave particles behind which can cause discoloration when they rust.
I used a new item I found at HD made by minwax in a squeeze tube called " Stainable Wood Filler". It comes in a 1 oz tube and it says on the package it is guaranteed to take stain. I will know in a day or two if it works.
Thanks
BT
Try it on some scrap before you commit. - lol
(You can take the boy out of the 'Show Me' state, but you can't take the "Show Me' out of the boy)
Hi Dave:
I tried some of that filler in a tube. It does not accept stain as well as the wood, but it does accept some color. If you decide to go this route, make sure you sand very well before you apply your actual stain coat. Any excess filler will show up as a light spot in your finish. Test it out on some scrap first.
Good luck
Michael
I have some of those magic marker type scratch cover-upers I will use on the filler covering the screws. I'll put some on before staining.
Thanks
BT
I`d have to disagree with the advice to use steel wool if using a water based stain. The steel wool will invariably leave small particles behind with will rust if more water stain is applied
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