Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Feb 10, 2008 07:31pm | #1

   The hole will always be a hair larger than the bit, no matter what you do.

   What is your mortising technique? Try several in-and-out straight plunges, slightly overlapping, from one end to the other, followed by a single back-and-forth clean up pass at full depth. (No guarantees, but it works for me with a regular router-and-jig setup.)

   -Steve

    

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Feb 10, 2008 11:06pm | #4

   Answers and comments on all of your posts:1. Changeover time is 1 minute 45 seconds, J to P; 1 minute 30 seconds, P to J; for a full review of the unit, see post 36974.1.2. Length of bed is 60". I'd say the width of cut is closer to 11 1/2" than 12".3. Yes. It is a self-centering chuck. I believe it is a Westcott, 2 jaw.4. My current work does not involve many M & Ts;Other wise I love loose tenon construction and fit the tenon to the mortise; I received a 1/4" Onsrud with the machine. I have ordered a 3/8" and a 1/2" from MiniMax at $30 each.5. This application (arcing legs connecting to oval rims, top and base) seems best suited for a dowel connection.(I haven't used dowels for years!) Thus, I plunge straight into the end of the leg and match the leg dowel pattern to the top and bottom rim. (I may dowel the legs to the top rim; then when they are "set", I'll fasten the base to the legs with Miller dowels drilled through from the bottom.6. The problem with an over-sized hole is the sloppy dowel fit. I guess it will have to be epoxy.6. I checked run-out: 1 1/2 thousandths on the shank of the bit. Is that an acceptable tolerance?Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   DonfromUtah | Feb 10, 2008 11:34pm | #5

   Frosty,

   On that run-out: was that a no-load reading or did you side-load the bit?

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Feb 11, 2008 12:43am | #6

   No load. Remember, in this application I'm plunging only. I wouldn't care about slightly oversize if it were a true mortise where I could/would fit the tenon to the mortise.I suppose I can take an oversized dowel, chuck it in the drill press and sand it down. I'll try epoxy on a standard dowel first.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   DonfromUtah | Feb 11, 2008 03:39am | #7

   Reason I asked was that the grain you're drilling through may impose some side-loading on the drill.

2. 
   dirtstirrer | Feb 10, 2008 07:45pm | #2

   How long does the changeover take, Frosty?  Curious about the length of the jointer too?  None of those three tools would get used as often as a tablesaw, in my shop at least, and it seems like combining those into one isn't a bad idea? 

   Your machine uses the self centering Westcott chuck correct? 

   Steve
3. 
   RickL | Feb 10, 2008 08:28pm | #3

   I see no problem whatsoever. You are supposed to make mortises on rails and stiles so loose tenons will fit perfectly anyway. Far cheaper to use 2 flute high speed steel endmills instead of the more expensive Onsrud bits. Endmills are just as good. Been using slot motisers for over 25 years and all the other shops I know do as well.

4. 
   troys | Feb 11, 2008 05:35am | #8

   Could your dowels be undersized or really metric like "3/4" plywood.?

   Have fun looks like a neat tool

   Troy

5. 
   RickL | Feb 11, 2008 03:40pm | #9

   If you are using it as a doweling machine simply get an appropritely sized drill bit.  It's just as easy to do the operstion with a mortise and loose tenon as well.  Try HSS endmills. I've used the Onsrud bits but much prefer endmills as well as all the other shops I know of do as well and we've been using slot mortisers for 25  years.

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Feb 11, 2008 04:44pm | #10

   The dowels aren't undersized, the hole is oversized.I'll try a regular drill bit slightly undersize.Where do you buy endmills?Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   RickL | Feb 11, 2008 07:31pm | #11

   Endmills are  available at metal working supply sources like http://www.wttool.com, http://www.use-enco.com 

   Buy the high speed steel ones, not the carbide. 2 flute rated for cutting aluminum which is pretty much like cutting wood.

   http://www.leevalley.com is the source for drill bits. HSS bradpoints are available in 64ths.  Prices are low and the quality is high.

   I don't understand why you just can't mill for a loose tenon and be done with it.  The doweling aspect of a slotmortiser is a plus especially with the lower rpm compared to a router.

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Feb 11, 2008 11:31pm | #14

   Thanks. I'll try them out.Re: loose tenon - I have an oval rim serving as a base for an oval table top. The legs (4) meet the base rim at 90 degrees. The legs are 7/8" diam. where they meet the base; no room for a real tenon, therefore the dowel connection.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

2. 
   DonfromUtah | Feb 11, 2008 07:41pm | #12

   The endmill store?

    

   Sorry, just couldn't resist.

   Industrial supply stores carry them and most cities have at least one. Dealers in metal-working machinery should carry them.  An online source is http://www.msc.com. A standard (non-tapered) endmill would probably work for you.

1. 
   RickL | Feb 11, 2008 08:11pm | #13

   Enco is actually owned by MSC.  Prices and quality on endmills at Enco and http://www.wttool.com are perfectly fine. Good enough for the average metalworker and certainly good enough for any woodworker.