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Has anyone used this method … warming mineral oil, and adding wax, I think it’s suppose to be bee’s wax …. not sure.
I’m wondering what effect this gives, and if it keeps the wood oily, or does it dry completely?
Thanks,
Diane
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Has anyone used this method … warming mineral oil, and adding wax, I think it’s suppose to be bee’s wax …. not sure.
I’m wondering what effect this gives, and if it keeps the wood oily, or does it dry completely?
Thanks,
Diane
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Replies
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I use mineral oil and beeswax lots. It is a really good food safe finish for cutting boards etc, but also works good as a final wax polish over most finishes. I usually use it over tung oil or danish oil. It doesn't dry as much as straight beeswax but is a lot easier to buff off. I find it gives the wood a nice deep luster. To get the right mix just keep shaving the wax into the warm mineral oil and testing it on a cutting board. Put a couple of drops on the wood and if there is enough wax it should kind of harden up after a few seconds. As you add more wax it just gets harder to wipe on and buff off. If you want a more durable finish(but not food safe) try the same thing with boiled linseed oil.
Good luck,
Paul.
*There's an excerpt from an article from FW on our web site at the moment talking about this very thing:http://www.taunton.com/fw/features/materials/8sweet.htmTim
*I used beeswax a lot as a floor finish and would advise that it is a lot quicker -- and safer, to melt the beeswax then stir in the mineral oil as the flash point of the beeswax is a lot higher than the mineral oil.I used an electric frypan to melt the wax then turned off the heat and added the thinner (I used pure turps, but the principle is the same) stirring it as it cooled. To test the mixture, drip a little on a cold surface and see how it hardens. You can also add stain at the same time as the thinner if you want a colored wax.
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