Replies

1. 
   Gretchen_ | Apr 24, 2001 04:48am | #1

   *
   If you are using this as a cutting board you will need to continually re-do the mineral oil "finish". I personally do nothing to mine and just bleach and scrub it when it needs it with a plastic scrubby and scrape it off. If this is a top that is not being used as a cutting board then you might want to finish it with poly or spar varnish. It will not show the rings, etc. but you cannot cut on it. It is 2 different uses and "finishes".

1. 
   Mark_Helling | Apr 25, 2001 02:27pm | #2

   *Can I apply poly over the mineral oil without it failing?

1. 
   Gretchen_ | Apr 25, 2001 11:19pm | #3

   *Nope, it's got to come off and I don't have a clue what will work. Acetone? Scraping? Just washing and washing? Poly when cured will be food safe. You can't actually cut on it though.

1. 
   Dave_Arbuckle | Apr 26, 2001 05:51pm | #4

   *I would probably try mineral spirits.One way to find out would be to get a bit of mineral oil on your hand, and see if a proposed solvent would cut the "slipperiness". Of course, you DON'T want to do this with a really toxic solvent.Dave

1. 
   BTaggart | May 16, 2001 09:38pm | #5

   *Mark,I've had good success putting poly over on-drying oil by doing the following: Wash with solvent(acetone, naphtha, or lacquer thinner), let dry completely. You can also wash with a household ammonia and water mixture. Scuff sand when dry because the grain will be raised, then seal the whole thing with DEWAXED shellac. The shellac forms a barrier coat over the oil. Then you can scuff sand lightly for adhesion, but don't cut through the shellac. Next put on your polyurethane. Poly will not stick to shellac if it has wax in it, which is why poly's can says: "Do not use over shellac". However, as long as you use fresh, dewaxed shellac, it should stick. I read about this in one of the finishing books(Flexner's I think). Anyway, try the whole process on some scrap to check the technique. Good Luck,BT