Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 30, 2009 09:10am | #1

   This may have nothing to do with the problem, but which Briwax formula did you use?  "Original" Briwax was intended for well-cured (read: old) finishes and had (IIRC) toluene in it.  The newer Briwax, I think it's called 2000, doesn't have such strong solvent ingredients.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 30, 2009 03:13pm | #2

   How, and how soon, did you wipe off the excess Maloof's after each application?  Also, how long did you wait between applications, and what kind of temperatures existed in your finishing space?

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/30/2009 8:14 am ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   Mackwood | Jul 30, 2009 05:22pm | #4

   Steve,

   I used a "white T-shirt" rag to remove excess finish anywhere from 20 min. to 1 hr. after application depending on temp.  If the temp. was 60 'ish, I would wipe sooner; if it was 50 'ish, I'd wait a bit longer.  In some cases I would go back and wipe again with a clean rag if there was bleed out.  I always waited at least 24 hrs. before the next application, sometimes several days.

   I'm using an "Original" Briwax.  Now I'm wondering about this aspect.  Could the solvent in the Briwax have "loosened" the other finish?  Would this be the cause of the slightly "rubbery" feeling on all the pieces?

   What now?  Do I remove the Briwax?  Using what?  Mineral spirits? DNA?

    

   Thanks,

   Mack "Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 30, 2009 06:48pm | #5

   Sounds like you did the right thing wiping down the excess finish, depending a bit on how vigorously you wiped off any finish left on the surface.  You want to be wiping before it starts to get tacky.  It is necessary not to let the oil/varnish type finishes not build films on the surface since films of those materials will be soft and potentially gummy   

   There certainly is a potential that the Briwax has contributed to a problem.  Mineral spirits will remove wax, but the problem that the Briwax may have caused won't be solved by removing the wax.  The problem is damage that might have been caused by the strong solvents in the Bri-wax, toluene for example.  That has long ago evaporated, but may have done it's damage before that happened.  Original Briwax should be considered only for cleaning of older items, where the solvent power helps remove oily grime, and not on recently constructed pieces. Briwax 2000 was designed for that purpose.

   I'd use the mineral spirits, rubbing rather vigorously.  Then give it a few days confirm your problem.  If it remains at all rubbery you are like to need to use stripper to remove the finish and start over.   I'm afraid there is a good chance you will need to do that. 

    

1. 
   Mackwood | Jul 30, 2009 09:11pm | #6

   Steve,

   Sounds like pretty grim news!  Good news is that I have 68 more pieces to finish (haven't started yet) and will be certain not to use the old Briwax on them.

   Thanks for the help and the advice!

   Regards,

   Mack"Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Jul 31, 2009 08:04pm | #10

   Mack,Grim news? Nah, it's all in how you take it. How many chairs are out there with a spotty finish? As I like to say, MARK IT UP!Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

2. 
   forestgirl | Jul 31, 2009 07:12am | #7

   Ah!  I was onto somethin', eh?  This is the 3rd or 4th time I can remember someone getting into trouble with Briwax on a newly made piece.  Seems like the company should caution people about what the proper uses of the 2 formulae are.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 31, 2009 03:18pm | #8

   You were right on FG. Original Briwax is formulated for the restoration trade. The toluene is an aggressive solvent used to dissolve old wax and other gunk on old furniture. It should not be used on any finish--particularly oil based--less than a year old.To overcome the solvent problem, Briwax developed a reformulated wax called "Briwax 2000". It uses a rather standard mineral spirits very similar to the solvent in most other paste waxes. It's fine to use on more recently finished surfaces. But, like any wax, it can be a problem on finishes less than a month old.Howie.........

2. 
   forestgirl | Jul 31, 2009 06:44pm | #9

   I used Briwax quite a bit when I had the antiques store.  But I made the mistake of using it in the shop one day, and sent my main employee into medical difficulties bordering on asthma.  She's extremely allergic to solvents, and I just didn't think.  From then on, items only got their treatments at home, and left to de-fume for a night before taking them into the shop.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   Mackwood | Aug 11, 2009 04:05am | #16

   Steve,

   I SCRUBBED the really bad pieces with paint thinner and 0000 steel wool.  It really took some elbow grease to get them clean!!  After one day of drying I applied one coat of Maloof 1 to one pair and it seemed to work out fine. 

   Thanks for the advice!

   Mack"Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"

2. 
   Gretchen | Aug 02, 2009 04:07pm | #15

   Yes, the old Briwax will "smear" your finish-basically dissolves it.

   ForestGirl, did something similar in helping DD clean up some furniture in their shop. I had a headache like none I've ever had, using it indoors!!

   Gretchen

   Edited 8/2/2009 9:09 am ET by Gretchen

3. 
   Don01 | Jul 30, 2009 04:35pm | #3

   Mack,
   Is there any chance your sanded the pieces to well and ended up burnishing the surface of the wood unevenly, closing off some of the pores?

   Don

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 31, 2009 08:29pm | #11

   Don.. I AM NOT A FINISHER BY A LONG SHOT..

   When I looked at the original post.. I saw 400 grit.. Maybe automotive wet/dry paper..

   I could be wrong but I 'THINK' SAM never used anything over 220 grit? Or was that 120 grit. Not sure.. If you have the time and courage! Sand Lightly! with 120 followed by a very light, as in no pressure, 220. Maybe followed by 600 grit automotive wet/dry.. You have to be very selective what you sand!

   And maybe a rub of the Green followed by Gray 3M pads WITH the origan finish may work..

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Aug 01, 2009 01:08am | #12

   Peter Gedrys has always cautioned against going finer than 220 or so on wood. Finer grits can be used for sanding between coats.Joe

   Edited 7/31/2009 6:08 pm ET by Joe Sullivan

1. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 02, 2009 03:53pm | #14

   Positivally NO expert finisher here!

   I sand no more that 120 grit, I use a scraper or scraper plane after that... OK, so I use 220? grit sometimes.

   I find that the different colored 3M pads work great! IF, a big IF,  if the wood will allow you to do!

    

    

2. 
   gofigure57 | Aug 01, 2009 04:20pm | #13

   Will,

   Sanding up to 400 or even 600  then burnishing with a white cotton rag is what I have always done before applying Sam's finish.  I would not use this sanding schedule with all finishes although with the Maloof product that is what is recommended.

   I use it quite a bit, 5 to 7 coats, one a day.  Flood the surface with brush then immediately wipe off completely. 

   Tom

   Edited 8/1/2009 9:21 am ET by gofigure57