Just finished a nice maple door trim and base package for a living room in an acrylic finish to keep the wood light and the client now that everything is installed wants it to look more sickly yellow like their oil-based poly cabinets.
Should I just use oil based poly over the acrylic? Do I first use a shellac coat then oil poly?
Should I just use a dye tint in another coat of acrylic? Much of the finish will get lots of sun so I don’t know if I trust a dye that’s not intended for exterior use (any of them?).
The whole thing makes me sick….a great reason to put these color details in the contract so clients can’t change their minds and blame it on you.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn’t rule the world.
Replies
You have a number of choices. Applying an oil based finish over a waterborne is easy. Just scuff sand the surface with 320 paper and apply the oil based finish. Shellac is not needed.
You can get some dye stain and mix it with your waterborne finish to mimic the amber tone of oil based finish. Most of the newer dyes are more light tolerant than they used to be. This is done already in some waterborne acrylic poly floor finishes.
My preference would be to use the oil based finish. That way you know that the color will darken in conjunction with the other oil based finishes.
Thanks Howard. I touched bases with a Kelly Moore rep to make sure they are ok with me going over the arylic with an oil base and they said it shouldn't be a problem as long as the arylic has fully cured.
I am making up a few test pieces to get the client's ok on.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Well, oil-based poly over acrylic poly doesn't look all that amber. Even a slightly tinted oil-base poly looks more or less clear. What worked great was two coats of amber shelac with acrylic poly top coat. Probably not any better than driving across town for more transtint dye, but it did save me the drive.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
>> Well, oil-based poly over acrylic poly doesn't look all that amber. Even a slightly tinted oil-base poly looks more or less clear. What worked great was two coats of amber shelac with acrylic poly top coat. There is a range of amber among differing manufactures. Some are darker than others.I was going to offer shellac as an option but there is a problem with shellac if you want to overcoat it. Unless you use a dewaxed shellac, you will run into problems with adhesion of oil based poly or any waterborne finish.Howie.........
I used varithane oil poly since it seems to have much more color than minwax.
The shelac was dewaxed so top coating shouldn't be a problem.
Two heavily thinned coats of amber out of the can (zinser?) worked out great.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
>> Two heavily thinned coats of amber out of the can (zinser?) worked out great.Then that is all that counts. Glad it worked out for you.Howie.........
Howard,You mis-read his post. He needs to mimic "sickly yellow", not amber. Yuck. Yuck.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
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