Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Mar 25, 2004 07:03pm | #1

   Looks like you've thought this thru pretty well, I only have one concern regarding construction; 3/16" veneer (oak?) is acting not only as a veneer but as the dado edge thickness in a commercial application where strength might be a concern.Perhaps you could beef it up and reduce tenon thickness.Overall the veneered approach works fine,but I always used a traditional approach.

   Also, perhaps 4 4" hinges instead of three would hold that weight better,in a commercial climate.

   
   

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   Edited 3/25/2004 1:09 pm ET by JACKPLANE

2. 
   robkelly | Mar 26, 2004 10:36pm | #2

   What with the glass and all, you won't save enough weight to justify the work in gluing pine cores and a skin. When I make/hang heavy French doors with side lights, I use 10/4 jambs and rabbet 1/2" for the door and 3/8" for the side lights, so I have an integral door stop which adds to the strength of the jamb. The main doors open out and the side lights open in (so removable screens can be used).  Because the doors are "staggered" on the jamb, I can use 1" or 1-1/4" hinge screws and the opposing door screws don't interfere with each other. The rabbet for the removable screens is 7/16".

   Some of the above may not apply to your job. From what you describe, I'd do the following:

   1. Solid mahogany all around.   2. Loose tenon joinery with epoxy adhesive, and cope and stick on the rails and stiles, with panel (glass) stop on the inside of the door.   3. Tell the customer the color is going to fade from summer sun exposure if not refinished every year with a UV blocking finish. 4.  Four ball bearing hinges 4" x 4" are a must for this weight and exposure.  5.  I'm assuming the exterior doors are about 36" as are the casements. I'd make the passage door 7/4 as well (the extra 3/8" gives a great feeling of "solidity" to the installation.)  6.  This is L.A. I don't know prices in your area, but  I'd bid this job at $18K minimum, maybe a little less because you don't have to supply lock hardware. They'll probably want nice doorhandles, though.

   If you don't have a mortiser, it's easy to make a jig to cut 1/2" mortises (it rides the edge of the door) using a router. It's just a little tedious adjusting the router to deepen the cuts.

1. 
   THEAYSMAN | Mar 30, 2004 09:36pm | #3

   Thanks for the reply, now looking at 'simplifying' as plan is to reproduce craftsman feel of orig. butcher shop, definately using Afr.mahogany. Still looking for a 'name' for a 1+2 co-hung configuration though( 1 jamb has a door which has another door hung from it). This is not a traffic unit, all 3 add up to only 90" before jambs and 3 opposing windows in 60". Hinges of 4x4 with ball tips, 4/jamb is in, lock hardware is not an issue but integrity and stability of 100" doors is, hav'nt seen laminated doors made this way outside of resto work and am impressed with their weathering charistics when looked after.

   Despite a prefference to mahog. t-hold will a sill plate of pressure treat under mahog. outway weather charistics of commercial Aluminum?

   thanks for input

   thom

1. 
   aksophie | Mar 31, 2004 12:31am | #4

   How about using an outdoor deck wood, such as Ipe, for the threshold? It looks a lot like mahog. and will certainly be weather resistant.