Replies

1. 
   Clay | Sep 18, 2003 06:24pm | #1

   Stan I have done some of the experiments that you are working on now and I concluded that I was better off using stains to achieve my "look".  The lye is kind of difficult to control as you are discovering, but even worse is the necessity for extensive neutralizing treatment without which the wood itself as well as it's finish faces long term peril.  I found that all the washing to remove the dangers of the lye residue made it difficult to retain the desirable color changes to say nothing of the surface quality of the wood.  I know of no professionals who use the lye technique in working with cherry.  My view is that it is an interesting historical technique that has been supplanted by much superior staining systems.

1. 
   stancalow | Sep 19, 2003 11:38pm | #2

   Clay

   Thanks for sharing your experience.  I liked the color that I was getting with lye, and hoped to avoid the blotching problem I have with dye stains.  But I agree that lye is nasty stuff, and your post made me think about potential problems with compatibility with my preferred shellac finish.  I'm probably going with garnet shellac to get the dark red tones instead.

   Stan

1. 
   konrad | Sep 20, 2003 12:03am | #3

   Hi Stan,

   You could also try sun tanning it. I have had great success with this in the past. It does not make it that very dark 100 year old cherry, but more the 20 year old (if that makes any sense). I will place the parts in the sun before the finish is applied and let it sit for a few hours. Be sure to turn things and keep them from any shade. It is amazing how quickly a tan line will show. Also, be sure to flip it over to tan the other side. This is very important on a table top or some other large surface area as it can warp if it gets too dry or hot. Also, avoid any spots where birds may fly overhead - they can be very dangerous:)

   Good luck,

   Konrad

2. 
   jonsherryl | Sep 20, 2003 12:38am | #4

   Stan, this may sound like the ravings of a grumpy old man...but if you don't want to allow cherry to mature through its natural patina process, why are you using it? Its sensitivity to light and the beautiful, translucent patina it develops is its single most important feature. There is no other wood in the world quite like it.

   If you just want to use it as a medium for superimposing creative finishing techniques, you can get similar results with red alder for a fraction of the price. Also, if you can find it in your area, balsam poplar (Populus balsamifera) or its close relative the western black cottonwood are outstanding choices for counterfeiting cherry.

1. 
   stancalow | Sep 22, 2003 05:44am | #5

   Thanks Mr Arno:

   Excellent instructive question.  I was trying to make the best of probably a poor choice in wood.  I am making a frame and panel hope chest  using cherry for the frame and cedar for the panels.  My goal was to make  a cedar chest, using another, more interesting wood,  as the structural component.  I am well along in the process, and my problem was getting the cherry to a color compatible with the cedar.   I was looking for the reddish tones of cherry to complemtn the purple of the cedar.   

    As a hobbyist, this was a learning piece for me.  If color compatibilty is the the goal, I agree I should have used tamer wood than cherry.   I have no deadline to meet, so I have time to think it. 

1. 
   harry11733 | Oct 05, 2003 02:42am | #6

   I also had trouble with lye and cherry. Lye (NaOH) works great on mahogany but on cherry it really ruins the surface. I am going to try fuming the cherry to see if that works better. I have heard that it gives a similar result to lye and it might be a bit easier on the wood surface.

3. 
   migraine | Oct 05, 2003 10:37am | #7

   Try some of the "dye stains" that are sold under the name the of Behlin or also know as "ultra-lux"  Same as "Mohawk" products

1. 
   Curtis | Oct 05, 2003 03:55pm | #8

   Hello

   if you want the red pinta, how about trying fuming with ammonia? its easy to do.

   Just a suggestion . sincerely C.A.G.

4. 
   PlaneWood | Oct 06, 2003 03:39am | #9

   I haven't experience the 'blotchies' using Old Masters Cherry Penetrating stain.  It's oil based and has no sealers so multiple coats can be applied. It matches old cherry quite well.

   I brush it on heavily then use a dry brush to feather it until the surface appears dry.  I don't touch it with a rag until a day later.  Then, i dry buff it pretty heavily and repeat the process if desired.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood