Does anyone out there have really good veneer tape? The stuff I use has a hard time bonding. It would separate from the veneer and dry up, leaving me with joints that are not secure as I’d like. I guess I like them to be as good as blue tape, but maybe I am mistaken, or my technique is all wrong.
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Replies
Mine comes from Lee Valley, I can't compare it to anything because I'm still working on the first roll! Stuff lasts forever. Works just fine for me though. Hope that helps. Cheers.
Russ
Russell, how exactly do you use that tape?Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Hey Chris,What I do is cut the tape to length first, then using a damp sponge and a piece of melamine, pull the tape glue side up between the melamine and the sponge and it's all set to be taped down. L8ter Chris.
P.S. Try reading this article, he shows a good taping technique.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=27820
Russ.http://www.jensenfinefurniture.com
Edited 2/14/2008 9:18 am ET by Russell
I get my veneer tape from Certainly Wood and have found it to be very easy to work with. You have to make sure you put plenty of water on the tape as it seems to make the bond stronger.
Jerry:Here's what I do: I take the tape with one hand, dip my finger on the tape into the water bowl, and pull the tape through to wet everything. Then I pull my thumb and index down the tape to get rid of excess water. I've been stretching the tape as I lay it down, but lately I haven't. Sometimes I use a J-roller, depends on how unruly the veneer is.Sound right? I'll try Certainly Wood's on my next veneer order. Thanks.
Paul Schurch sells a veneer tape that works very well. He also recommends and sells a soft bristle brass brush for rubbing the veneer tape flat after applying it to the veneer.
His website: http://www.schurchwoodwork.com/
Good luck, Tom.
Tom:Have you used the brush? I don't understand that concept when I think a roller would do a better job. He's gotta know something about veneering, right :) I'll hafta take a look at his tape, thanks.
Yes, I use the brush regularly for all gum tape application. For more info, check out FWW #164. Schurch has an article in that issue with a photo of him using the brush. An old tooth brush might be useful for experimenting with the technique.By the way, in your first post, it sounded like you might not be getting the tape wet enough.Good luck, Tom.
I use tape from JoeWoodworkers.com. His site is almost exclusively for veneering and since I'm almost exclusivley a veneer person, I use him the most. There are many quality sites which have been mentioned.
Just the right amount of water is the key. Try some different techniques to see what works for you.
I'm using a tape with a heat activated glue to cover the plywood edges on some cabinets I'm making. I'm not sure of the brand name, but I get it from my local cabinet hardware supplier.
It seems to work quite well. I bought an inexpensive steam iron (who would have thought that an iron would be a woodworking tool? - lol), and just iron it on. I give it a couple of minutes to cool and set up, then trim it with a sharp utility knife.
It took a few practice runs to figure out the best speed for ironing it on and I sometimes make a quick extra pass to touch up the edges. Oh yeah, don't use any water in the iron - all you need is the heat.
I've also talked to people who apply it with a heat gun and roller, but ironing it on seems to be the most common method.
Dave,
tufenhundel is talking about the tape you use to hold two pieces of veneer together before it is pressed to the substrate.
Rob
At the risk of giving away techniques first learned from the esteemed Mr. Schurch:
You'll have an easier time if you first tape the back side (the side that gets glued to the substrate) of the veneer match with blue tape.
Then, flip the piece over and tape the seams with the veneer tape. Put some sort of press over the veneer (eg a piece of MDF, plywood, etc..) so that the joint stays flat while the veneer tape dries. This should suck the joint line in good and tight.
Like other folks here, I use a wet (more than damp, but less than dripping) sponge to moisten the tape. Wide tape without holes is generally more foolproof than the skinny tape with holes.
Now you can (carefully!) pull the blue masking tape off the back side.
I've been veneering panels for over 10 years, yet I learned a bunch from the decorative marquetry/veneering DVDs that Paul Schurch sells.
I think what you said is key: Tape the glue side with blue tape first. I've been using blue tape, but just to hold the pieces together...guess I gotta stop being a cheap @ss with the blue stuff. I should look for a sponge too. As for pressing the joints until the tape dries, the tape always seem to dry before I'm done working on it.I have both of Schurch's videos...good stuff...but I always wonder why my tape doesn't seem to perform as well as his stuff. I'll get wide tape and pile on the blue tape. Thanks for the tips.
I use the Lee Valley stuff. I don't find I need a lot of blue tape to hold the backs together while I put the veneer tape on, so no need to go wild with that stuff. Cutting a good edge is key. I put PSA sandpaper on the edge of an old 4' level, and I use that to sand and finish off all my cuts. Works great.
Also, toget the tape off, I find re-dampening it with a sponge and waiting a few minutes softens the tape to the point it easily scrapes off.
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