Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Nov 05, 2008 10:08pm | #1

   Since you already have a standard angle and a low angle BU plane all you have to do is try them. You make the decision on how they cut. They aren't quite the same heft and the block doesn't have a traditional tote but you can certainly determine the cut. The only plane you don't own is the York pitch option. This has been the traditional approach for figured lumber. I think LN has two options in alternative pitches. You can buy just the York frog and add it to your #4. Seems to me you need a jointer plane more than a jack but that's a different discussion.

   Most cutting tools are sensitive to grain direction. I think the BU planes are even more so. They are quite good for end, edge and tightly figured lumber. Not so great on ordinary straight grain faces. That's just my opinion. They can dig in real fast when you have an area of reversing grain. You can use them for shooting.

   I like the York pitch for figured grain but it doesn't have many other uses. It has to be set very fine. Highly figured lumber presents unique problems, especially if you are hand planing from the rough. Tear out from a previous plane will be hard to correct with a smoother. Patience is a virtue when faced with something like hard birdseye maple. A scraper plane comes in handy with this stuff. Card scrapers are too likely to cause ripples. I helps to have more specialized tools if you are working a lot of figured wood. I'm not a masochist and go for the sander.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   JeffHeath | Nov 06, 2008 03:59am | #2

   I have both the LN low angle jack and the #5.  Both are great planes, and, in my hands, are used  for different tasks.

   I use the low angle jack for dealing with difficult grain, as well as end grain, and initial smoothing.  I do not use it at all for stock preperation.  I keep the cutting edge straight, not cambered.  I also have an extra blade ground to a high angle for particularly difficult grained woods.

   I use the #5 for quickly removing wood.  I use it to rapidly get glue-ups flat, and to remove high spots on wide boards.  From there, I move to my #7.  I keep the cutting edge cambered.

   Jeff

1. 
   jphelps7 | Nov 06, 2008 04:32am | #3

   Precicely the personal hands-on experience I was looking for.

   Your clarity of thought and communication tells me you are a superb woodworker.

   Thanks so much for sharing.

   JP7