Having just installed a flagstone patio, my wife thought a large slab type bench would be nice. I have proposed a live edge slab bench. Having agreed on that, I am a little at a loss for wood type, given I am in a northern Illinois locale. I’d like it to be very weather resistant, very sturdy, with a bit of an Asian flare to it. May I have other suggestions on wood, approach, pitfalls, tools, equipment, warning do not pass go? Thanks!
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http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=fw-knots&msg=45344.202
Mike
Take a look at the bench in this discussion. It may not be what you are looking for but could be a nice comfortable addition to your patio.
Go to the beginning of the posts.
ASK
Edited 8/7/2009 9:02 am ET by ASK
Walnut would be a good choice, it does well outdoors. Kettle Moraine Hardwoods http://www.kmhardwoods.com/ near Racine, WI has some nice flitches. If you need any help feel free to ask, I do a lot of live edge work & I'm nearby.
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Edited 8/7/2009 10:25 pm by Timberwerks
Edited 8/7/2009 10:27 pm by Timberwerks
Edited 8/8/2009 8:41 pm by Timberwerks
Thanks. I think we have a trip planned to Kirkland to that sawmill to see their walnut slabs, as well as some stuff for other projects. Racine is a nice drive, too. Thanks a bunch!
Chicago area here. I for one would forget anything with a live edge.. I think it may last one winter? Maybe a bit longer if you can get the bark off and re-glue with epoxy? Two years?
Teak, redwood, cypress, white oak AND I think the best choice would be Western Red Cedar. Make sure it is Western Red Cedar! Very stable wood unless it has soft wood areas that soak in moisture. Clear Western Red Cedar can be expensive!
I like a slab bench but see the posts mentioned in here.
See Lataxe.. An unusual garden bench ...
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages/?start=Start+Reading+%3E%3E
I for one think that you both would be much more comfortable snuggling up on a bench on a cool evening.
Live edge does still apply to flitches with bark removed. I think this is what the author is looking for. If not I agree that keeping the bark on would not be long lasting, also uncomfortable.Timberwerks Studio Blog
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Live edge does still apply to flitches with bark removed.
Forgive me! My old brain thought Bark! I understand!
LOL, no problem, an old brain is a wise brain. I could be wrong and the author is looking for a bark edge. I've been wrong many times :)
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Edited 8/8/2009 6:17 pm by Timberwerks
Live edge does still apply to flitches with bark removed. ..
Thanks for reminding me. I knew that somewhere back in my old brain. I just forgot about it until you reminded me of it! I always think of bark when I see the reference...
Correct me if I am wrong but isn't the sapwood of almost all trees NOT rot resistant? A barkless slab with the live edge is going to rot away faster than the heartwood, including Walnut.
Perhaps with green wood, I have not seen this in air or KD wood.Timberwerks Studio Blog
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I looked in the Wood Handbook put out by your Forest Laboratory under Decay Resistance. It says "Untreated sapwood of substantially all species has low resistance to decay and usually has a short life under decay-producing conditions."Since this table is going to be outside possibly uncovered and exposed to the weather year round, it should come as no surprise and be expected to have decay issues. Doesn't matter if the wood was dried or not, when the moisture content is returned to the wood, the bugs, fungi, and bacteria are going to do what comes naturally. They are going to eat that nice walnut table's live edge. Yum! Yum! Better to cut off all the sapwood and recreate the edge like Flairwood and another member (apologies for not getting your names right) did to the big curly Bubinga table last year.
Untreated, I could see that being a possible issue. I would however assume that this bench will be treated. I have seen live edge furniture that has been outdoors many years with no issues of decay. Truth be told I've seen many chain sawed carvings with sapwood untreated with no issues of decay. I wouldn't have any worries.Timberwerks Studio Blog
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I believe the reference to "treated" being wood preservative rather than wood finish, but don't know for certain. I will bow to your experience in the Midwest, but around here it it would be spalting in short order. Come to think about it that might actually look nice. ;)My intent was to point out a potential pitfall and not to have the last word. The choice ultimately is up to the origional poster.
Spalting would be nice. I think a lot has to do with most people with this type of furniture tend to care for it very well and bring it in over the winters or cover it. Some of the rustic and log furniture I have seen up north does not fair as well because of more shady and damp locations such as lake cottages. I think upkeep is the main issue. I think if left untreated eventually the sap wood of a live edge piece will start to go soft but I also think the end grain areas will show signs of this first, even in the heartwood
An interesting note, I have two spalted Maple slabs some areas still have bark and others none. The bark areas have spalting the areas with no bark have no spalting. The end grain on each have heavier deeper spalting. It could be that the areas without bark tend to shed water or dry faster because of the cleaner edge left exposed.
This is an interesting topic hopefully others will commentTimberwerks Studio Blog
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Good input, and I thank you. At this point, we are still a year from starting, so I have a lot of time to decide, change my mind, etc. Thanks!
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