Replies

1. 
   DSmith84 | Apr 08, 2008 03:31am | #1

   If it's not cut to final size yet, you can cut it down the glue line on the table saw and re-glue it.  If it is the final size, you can try to make the same cut on the bandsaw(thinner kerf)  and re-glue.  Best of luck!

1. 
   eagle | Apr 08, 2008 03:40am | #2

   Unfortunately, it is final dimension...but I like the idea, I may have to make the drawers slightly shorter...either that or remove the top rail and replace....Tks

2. 
   bigfootnampa | Apr 08, 2008 07:25am | #4

   I will assume that you used Titebond II or something similar.  Turners regularly glue up blanks, turn them, then microwave them (to heat the glue lines) and disassemble them... sometimes reassembling them in a different configuration.  The jackpot for you is the revelation that the glue line can be broken with heat.  I'd likely use something like my infrared lamp for this but you could do it on the dash of a car on a summer day if the piece would fit.  A heat gun might also do the trick, though it may be pretty slow going.  This actually works for most types of wood glues... white, yellow, hide glues, etc.  I think the polyurethane foams (gorilla glues) will be resistant to this treatment and I am unsure about the resorcinals or the epoxies but even they may be worth a try.  When I was active in archery (before the compound bow days) our bows would sometimes delaminate just from being in the hot sun (inside of cars was even worse).  We were able to fix them by reclamping and cooling them.  This is good news for error prone gluers such as yourself.

1. 
   BillBrennen | Apr 08, 2008 08:16pm | #6

   Heat will destroy room-temperature-cured epoxies, but it takes about 300 degrees F to make them fully release. Many epoxies are weak enough at 212 degrees to manually break the joint at the glueline. Resorcinol will hold tight even while the wood is burning to ashes. I suspect you are right that heat won't help with polyurethanes.Bill

1. 
   bigfootnampa | Apr 08, 2008 09:16pm | #7

   Thank you Bill!  That bit of knowledge may be handy for me one day.

2. 
   Eef | Apr 08, 2008 09:33pm | #8

   bigfoot,

   i too have,on occaision, been an "error-prone gluer."  there was the time,on a quick dry-time hot summer day that stile was about to mate with rail but could not be consumated as both stile and rail were equally endowed or rather,en-doweled.

   eef

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Apr 08, 2008 06:35am | #3

   Close your eyes!

   Seriously, if it is a very fine crack, you may be able to fill it with a film finish.  If it is a wider crack, you could conceal it with stringing or inlay of some sort.  I'm assuming that you can't make the glue release as you could do with hide glue.

   Could you rip the panel apart and glue it back together AND glue another board on the end to make up for the kerf?  That way the repair would be at the side, not the focal point.

   Chris @ flairwoodworks

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

   
   

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   Edited 4/7/2008 11:37 pm by flairwoodworks

3. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 08, 2008 03:58pm | #5

   I might try one of two things, depending on how it looked to me. One, is to cut some narrow slivers on the bandsaw and glue them in. The other would be to wait until I'm done and get some of that dyed putty (can't remember the name) and fill it in. Depends on how bad and obvious it is. If it's not structural, I'd not take the whole apart and redo it.

4. 
   Frozen | Apr 08, 2008 10:14pm | #9

   I had this happen to a panel to go in a frame: I took a wide straight router bit and plowed a shallow groove down the joint, then filled it with a matched piece of wood. Grain was subtle, so the repair was invisible.

   “Expectation strolls through the spacious fields of Time towards Opportunity.”
   Umberto Eco, The Island of the Day Before