I have a Makita LS 1310 and wonder if anyone has tried the laser guide that Irwin makes for the Makita saw?
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Replies
When I got my new DeWalt 12" I just had to add the laser - too cool not to have one. Then I started using it.
Frankly, I find that I get much more accurate results if I just lower the non-rotating blade to the piece and note if I am on my cut line or not and adjust from there. The eye (my eye, anyway) can see the relationship between a black line and a shiny blade tooth MUCH better than it can see a red line against a black one.
Mike D
IMHO those laser guides are only good for rough framing. Give me a scoring knife line or pencil tic.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Amen,
It says "laser" you naturally want to assume "accurate".
At least the ones that I've seen are not, particularly.
Mike D (Opinionated, in Kentucky)
I have the Irwin laser on a Ridgid chop saw, as well as the factory one on my Bosch slider. They are great for framing work. You can get better results as you start to account for the ofset between the blade and the laser line. As others have said, the laser line is a bit too fuzzy. I like a mechanical pencil line mark, and bringing a tooth from the blade right up to it for fine work.John
what does IMHO mean?
In My Humble Opinion
Thanks
Try this site to burn some time.
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I've found the lines those laser guides paint are way too ill defined for accurate cutting. The edge is not crisp and the line itself acts like a liquid.
Paul
Paul,
These damn new fangled thangs. No, I'm not going into any RAS rant!
Just curious though, how does rough cut lumber affect them? Bet they're fuzzy too.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hi Bob,
Horribly fuzzy. In fact on rough lumber the line is a good 3/4 - 1" wide depending on the species. But darn, I was going to suggest you put one on your RAS to improve its accuracy :) .
All in good fun.
Paul
"In fact on rough lumber the line is a good 3/4 - 1" wide depending on the species."
When the wood is that rough, I believe it's normally called a "log," rather than "lumber." ;-)
-Steve
Exactly Steve. I was cutting up a fir tree that came down in the last storm we had using my Sthil that has an 87" bar and a laser guide on it . With that rough Fir bark I swear the line was no less than 6" wide :)
Paul
I found that by making a replaceable back fence, it becomes a zero clearance insert the first time you cut through it.
I just use that edge to line up my pencil mark too, and cut dead on every time. Once, things start to get sloppy, I just make another new back fence out of 1/2-inch birch ply.
The down side is that if you change the angles, you need a new fence, but 99% of what I cut is dead on 90 both ways.
Jigs,
The down side is that if you change the angles, you need a new fence, but 99% of what I cut is dead on 90 both ways.
I use your method too. On my RAS I solved that problem by using angled spacers to angle the stock so I don't have the change the angle of the saw. Yes, over time it becomes ragged but not as often.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Best thing is it reminds you where the blade will cut. Worse thing is its one sided. Would be real nice if you could have two beams. Dewalt just came out with a work light that gives a shadow where the blade cuts but I don't know how good it is for lineing up for cutting and its dewalt only.
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