Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Oct 24, 2007 02:06am | #1

   How bulletproof does the finish need to be? In other words, would she like a finish that "grows" over time, showing the inevitable dings and splotches of daily life? Or does she want one that looks brand new forever?

   -Steve

    

2. 
   user-83153 | Oct 24, 2007 02:08am | #2

   Are you refinishing the top of an old table that has been stripped or what? There are many ways to finish a piece with very little sheen.

1. 
   wink | Oct 24, 2007 02:10am | #3

   The top was an old work bench in a barn.  Have cleaned it to reveal walnut but did not sand for a totaly "new" look.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 24, 2007 08:43pm | #9

   Do your client plan to prepare food on it? Will there be cutting and chopping?If this was used as a workbench in a garage and it's 100 years old, how sure are you that there is no toxic stuff on or in it?Howie.........

1. 
   oldusty | Oct 24, 2007 10:39pm | #10

       Ah come on Howie , 

         Where's your sense of adventure , want to come over there for dinner ?

                  just kidding  your correct , maybe a good bleaching as well .

                                     dusty

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 25, 2007 12:01am | #11

   How about turning it over and using the bottom side? It may be cleaner.Howie.........

2. 
   wink | Oct 25, 2007 04:09am | #12

   Not sure how to tell- are you implying somekind of sealer? If so what?

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 25, 2007 06:07pm | #13

   It could be anything. Not just a sealer. If it was used as a work bench all sorts of chemicals could have been spilled on it. I had a workbench I used for all sorts of car activities. Used parts cleaners, oils and lubricants, solvents, etc. Some of these types of items were a lot more dangerous 50 or more years ago than their more modern formulations. Even today's gasoline contains carcinogenic chemicals and it contained more in the "old" days.Lots of these contaminates can not be removed effectively.Just suggesting you might want to be cautious.Howie.........

2. 
   wink | Oct 26, 2007 02:45pm | #14

   Thanks for the caution.  Sometimes we need reminded of the obvious. 

3. 
   wink | Oct 26, 2007 02:47pm | #15

   Sorry if the previous reply sounded snide.  I ment "Why didn't I think of that"

2. 
   wink | Oct 24, 2007 02:11am | #4

   Stripped to the point of removing 100 yrs of dirt and grime, but not to look like new.

1. 
   user-83153 | Oct 24, 2007 03:01am | #6

   OK. You have an old workbench that the client wants a low gloss finish on. Is it gouged up? Is there any finish on it now?

   You might be best served to just use an oil/varnish mix, but there are still questions.

   Walnut oil is no better for walnut than any other oil. Walnut oil is, in fact, a semi-drying oil. It offers little protection, and takes a long time to cure, even partially. If you want to use an oil finish there are better options.

   Edited 10/23/2007 8:06 pm ET by Rob A.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 24, 2007 05:35am | #7

   Walnut oil is no better for walnut than any other oil. Walnut oil is, in fact, a semi-drying oil. It offers little protection, Yes.. but it does a good job if you keep it up which I would think the client may do..EDIT two: If you have a scrap show it to the client and ask what she wants do do for upkeep. As in ASK the client what she expects..!I'll rest my case. Our opinions do not count untill we know what she wants!Edited 10/23/2007 10:35 pm by WillGeorge

   Edited 10/23/2007 10:39 pm by WillGeorge

3. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 24, 2007 02:33am | #5

   Maybe just wipe it down with Walnut oil and use that for upkeep.

   If you have a scrap show it to the client and ask what she wants do do for upkeep. As far as I know Walnut oil is safe unless you are allergic to walnut. I could be wrong.

4. 
   oldusty | Oct 24, 2007 08:39pm | #8

   wink ,

       You can use the old standard of Mineral oil with paraffin wax melted into.

                    Bee's wax can be used instead of paraffin

                            dusty

5. 
   Dave45 | Oct 26, 2007 08:38pm | #16

   Setting aside the issue of "lord knows what might be in that wood", I would look at a satin finish polyurethane.  Poly is a durable, low maintenance, finish that should stand up well.  It can be bought in Gloss, Semi-Gloss, or Satin so you have quite a bit of control over the shine.

   If you have some scrap, give it a try.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 27, 2007 08:23pm | #17

   >> Poly is a durable, low maintenance, finish that should stand up well. Poly varnish or a phenolic resin varnish can provide a durable finish. However, neither will stand up if the intent is to cut or chop on the surface. Those actions will readily cut through either finish opening the substrate to water and moisture. Once breached, the water and moisture will get under the surface of the film and destroy the adhesion. Film finishes are not a good choice for a surface that will get that type of abuse.Howie.........

1. 
   Dave45 | Oct 28, 2007 04:42pm | #18

   You're absolutely right, Howie, and I should have expanded my post to recommend a separate surface for the cutting and chopping chores. 

   IMHO, wood counter tops are beautiful but really impractical for day-to-day use.  If someone just has to have one, they also need to take extra precautions to minimize the wear and tear on the wood.

6. 
   jos0708 | Oct 29, 2007 02:42am | #19

   hi

   I use Lee Valley's 100% PURE TUNG OIL on walhut  butcher blockes .it is food safe, watter resistent, and satin look, 3 thin cots or more and that's it ,the lady can refresh it once a year or as need.