Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 29, 2008 05:51am | #1

   At $120 per side, it's probably what the jointer is worth. If the tables are ground, there is always the chance they won't be coplanar and will be beyond adjustments. How flat does the table grinder claim they can get, and do they have jointer table experience? .002" shouldn't be a problem. Use the long straight edge to set the knives so it won't be effected by the dip. Wait to transfer pressure on the outfeed after the stock is past the dip. Neither should be an issue when working stock long enough to be safe on a jointer.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   png | Apr 30, 2008 01:31am | #4

   hammer1,

   Thanks for your good advice.  At $120 a table I could have bought a decent machine for close to the same price.  The grinder claims that they can get it to about .001 across the 27 inch length.  I don’t know how much experience they have with jointers but after speaking to a few grinders this one at least understood the need to have flat tables on a jointer.  Your advice is good and I will just use a longer straight edge to set the knives and live with it.  I may attempt to sell it and purchase a good one if I can negotiate a kitchen pass.  Thanks again for your reply.

2. 
   brad805 | Apr 29, 2008 06:57am | #2

   Which Starrett did you get?  I checked on McMaster under the machinst rule and they are guaranteed to be within .004.  You could buy the magnetic jointer blade setting tool and be happy.  Personally, I probably would not invest a lot into that machine unless it fit my long term needs.  If you are doing these kind of measurements a import machine probably will not fulfill your needs.  If you do decide to have the faces re-ground you might want to ask about their guarantees on flatness as this could easily turn into an exercise to spend $300, waste a lot of time pulling wrenches and lugging the darn thing around only to find little improvement.  I tipped over my old 6" machine and broke a small piece of the casting.  Dragging the half to the machinist to kinda sucked.

   Brad 

1. 
   png | Apr 30, 2008 01:48am | #5

   Brad805,

   I have a Starrett 380-48 which I believe is supposed to be accurate to +/- .0002/foot.  I had to smile when you wrote to get a magnetic jointer blade setting tool and be happy…because I have one of these but evidently I am not holding my mouth right or something and the blades move anyway.  Practice makes perfect and I will keep at it till I get it right.  You hit the nail right on the head about if the machine fits my long term needs and lugging the thing to the grinder.  Something I was hoping this post could help push me off top center.  Thanks for your thoughts.<!----><!----><!---->

3. 
   RickL | Apr 29, 2008 02:52pm | #3

   I don't consider that to be terribly out of tolerance. One thing you  must realize is on a dovetailed ways jointer the machine must be ground as a whole unit or the tables will not line up.

   http://www.sunhillmachinery.com/SM-150%20Jointer.htm

   The .002" is acceptable. The .005" shouldn't be a real problem. either. I think it might be more technique.

   I have been repairing machines for 25 years and have had a dozen jointers blanchard ground over the years. Grinding is more involved than you can imagine. Typically they have strong magnetic tables that can distort the metal unless it's properly shimmed and supported or it will be more distorted than it was originally.

   I have a four foot and a six foot machinist straght edge for checking jointers.

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   Edited 4/29/2008 7:53 am ET by RickL

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   Edited 4/29/2008 7:54 am ET by RickL

   
   

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   Edited 4/29/2008 8:05 am ET by RickL

1. 
   png | Apr 30, 2008 02:04am | #6

   RickL,

   This is good information if I decide to get the thing ground.  I had not thought of the need to have the tables ground as a whole unit but it sure makes sense.  What attracted me to this jointer was 1. The price, and 2. The long tables but if they are not flat then I am wasting my time with it.  Of course I should have learned by now that all too often you get what you pay for.  Your experience is valuable and I appreciate the input especially with the figures you gave because though I can measure the tables I don’t have experience to know the difference between the good, the bad, and the ugly.  If I do decide to have it ground how would you suggest I approach the grinder to assure he gets it right?

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Apr 30, 2008 04:02am | #7

   I'm not convinced that they need to be flattened.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   png | Apr 30, 2008 05:32am | #8

   flairwoodworks,

   I agree!  But I'm not sure...

4. 
   seajai | Apr 30, 2008 03:17pm | #9

   PNG,

   I had the same issue with my Jet 6" jointer, and contrary to what some may say, a .006" dip in the outfeed table will cause problems. After years of trying to make my Jet cut right, I gave up on it and went out and bought a used 8" powermatic (one of the old, all american made green ones). The tables are dead flat, even after 32 years in a production cabinet shop. I replaced the bearings and knives, a little cleaning and paint, and I have a new jointer that cuts silky smooth.  The old model 50 (6") or 60 (8") can be had for a decent price, I bought mine for $400 and put a couple hundred into it in improvements. That being said, there is the possibility an older machine could have table issues, but I think it would be less likely than on the new chiwaneese made stuff.  My advice: don't waste too much of you time on an out-of-wack machine, it will only serve to frustrate you, its worth your effort to find a better one.

    

   
1. 
   png | May 01, 2008 01:05am | #10

   Thanks seajai,

   That jointer of yours sure looks like a good find.  I think for now I will put up with mine until I can afford something better.  Appreciate your input. 

   Edited 4/30/2008 6:06 pm ET by PNG