Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 03, 2004 05:21pm | #1

   Presumably the dado set has carbide teeth, phenolic would dull a steel blade.  Be sure to clamp down the insert when you first raise the blade through it, a dado set will push up on the insert with a fair amount of force.

   John W.

1. 
   ASK | Mar 03, 2004 05:24pm | #2

   John,

   Thanks. Yes the blade has carbide tips. And yes I always clamp a piece of ply or something on top of the insert.

   ASK

2. 
   RickL | Mar 03, 2004 05:30pm | #3

   Wood and plywood are great for zero clearance inserts. We usually make 20 at a time for various width dados. 

1. 
   ASK | Mar 03, 2004 06:23pm | #5

   Rick,

   How do you cut the curves for the inserts? router Table?

   I've never made one, Always bought them

   ASK

1. 
   RickL | Mar 03, 2004 06:37pm | #7

   You can copy off the original insert and save one as a master copy. Plenty of articles in the hobby mags on different ways  to do this.  Thirty-five years ago I was told by the regional salesman of Powermatic to put the stock insert away and make my own. Best early advise I got.  Template bearing bit works great but whatever works for you is fine.

2. 
   forestgirl | Mar 03, 2004 07:56pm | #8

   "how do you cut the curves..."  Bandsaw, jig saw if you must.  With a bandsaw, you can stack-cut them.  Just a bit oversized. Then, using a template, finish the edges with a router.  For clean cuts with different dado set-ups, one for each width.  Same with various beveled cuts if producing thin pieces that you don't want to drop through the insert.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   ASK | Mar 03, 2004 09:35pm | #9

   About the dado inserts

   Thank you all for your comments.

   Guess I'll spend the weekend making inserts

   ASK

1. 
   CharlieP | Mar 04, 2004 08:21am | #10

   Spend the weekend?  Heck, you are allocated 10 minutes!

   Used a pencil to trace the current insert on plywood, and cut it on the bandsaw, sanded on the disc sander until it fit.  Used masking tape for the microscopic shim.  The cut doesn't need to be furniture perfect, as long as it is tight - no wiggle, and even with the tabletop.  Used the rip fence to lock it in place while I raised the blade through it.  ________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

2. 
   ASK | Mar 04, 2004 05:05pm | #11

   Charlie,

   Ten minutes? Is that for all sizes or for each one? I have to fit this in between skiing and other chores the boss (wife) needs me to do.

   By the way, and this may sound dumb, but the shims. do you need to use the shims or just use them only to make up a specific width of cut.

   I've never used a dado blade before. Since the carbide tips hang outside the main part of the blade must you use the shims or just offset the tips on each of the blades?

   The instructions that came with the blade were not very helpful

   ASK

3. 
   BG | Mar 04, 2004 06:00pm | #12

   Ask,

   The shims Charlie was refering to were for making sure your insert is level with the TS table top.

   The shims that come with the dado blades do not have to be used...they are to make up a certain width cut, as you guessed.  With Plywood the thickness can vary and therefore the cut (dado, grove)can be too tight.  I use my fense when cutting and slip one or two sheets of paper in between the board and fense and run it through again...    

4. 
   forestgirl | Mar 04, 2004 08:36pm | #13

   ASK, it sounds like maybe you bought a Freud dado set?  Great set, very weak instructions!  Here's a link to set-up info:http://www.newwoodworker.com/usngstkddados.html

   PlansNow has a nice little article on dado basics, with instructions on cutting basic joints and a troubleshooting guide.  Only 4 bucks.http://www.plansnowinprint.com/dadoblades.html

   Have fun!

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

   Edited 3/4/2004 1:23:48 PM ET by forestgirl

5. 
   ASK | Mar 04, 2004 09:56pm | #16

   Forestgirl

   Nope, bought the Avenger 8", Their instructions aren't very good either. Checked Freud's web site. They didn't have anything very useful

   Thanks for the links

   ASK

6. 
   CharlieP | Mar 04, 2004 08:45pm | #14

   Maybe you get an allocation of 15 minutes for two inserts <grin>

   Most of my dado cuts were 23/32, or whatever 3/4 plywood has shrunk to at this point (I have some Walnut ply that is down to 5/8).  And most of those dados are 1/4 inch deep.  Although I expected to need numerous inserts for the Dado set, I only have one.  (I don't bother with a different insert when I drop slightly below the 23/32).

   I have gone to a different technique, so I rarely use my dado blade any more.  For a typical shelf, I rabbet the shelf slightly, often with the router, so that the end has a 1/2 inch thick "tenon" (sometimes cutting on only one side, but always looking for a slight cut on the "show" side).  Sometimes I make the shoulder cut for this "tenon" on the table saw with my premium blade, to get the sharpest, straightest shoulder.  I then cut the dado in the carcase with the router, using a 1/2 inch bit.  Since the shelf inset into the carcase is thinner than the shelf, it seems to hide the joint better, and is faster than the dado process when you include the time to set up the dado blade.  (I do primarily one-off work - may not be true if you are build a lot of cabinets or something).  

   Since my insert is made from plywood, and plywood isn't really as even as you would hope, when I put the insert in the saw, a corner may be slightly low.  So I just put a piece of masking tape on the low corner - the under side of the insert - to built up the thickness of the plywood until it is even with the top of the table.  Some people use a thicker piece of hardwood, and cut a rabbet around the edge of the back to the thickness they need to fit their saw.  ________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

7. 
   ASK | Mar 04, 2004 09:52pm | #15

   Charlie,

   Thanks again for the info.

   The first dado I will be doing is actually very simple and could be done with a regular TS blade but I needed a good excuse to by the dado set.

   Parsons table with inset glasstop and 2" X 2" section rails and legs. The rails each have a 1/2 " tenon at each end that extends the width of the leg, 2", The top of each leg is notched the thickness of the rails, 2", in both horizontal directions to accept tenons of the rails. The tenons in the rails are notched in the center to connect to each other. It's the i/2 depth notch in the tenons which was the decider to get the dado set.

   This arrangement will show the crossing of the tenons at the top of each leg.

   Tables are walnut. I made them years ago out of red oak with dowel connections, which are starting to fail, before I new any better

   ASK

3. 
   BG | Mar 03, 2004 05:37pm | #4

   Ask,

   I don't see a problem, however, the dado insert that came with my TS is not zero clearance except maybe if I'm using all the dado blades at once...which I hardly ever do.  Are you planning to have a seperate insert for each thickness of dado blades?  If not, maybe you'd be better off to rout out the overall opening...it would seem a bit safer... 
1. 
   ASK | Mar 03, 2004 06:25pm | #6

   BG

   Hadn't thought about thickness. I have 1/2" notches in some tenons to cut. Maybe I should cut it for that thickness now and worry about other thicknesses later.

   Thanks

   ASK