I’m thinking about adding some inlay banding to a project. It looks like it will be a simple thing to do with a router however I have my concerns.
Anybody had any experience with this process? Specifically I’m concerned about getting it to fit so perfectly that after I polyurethane the surface, I don’t want to see or feel any tiny gaps in-between the surface and the inlay. Am I worrying about nothing or is it a pain to get it to work out just right?
Replies
A spiral downcut bit is required. Use a down sized router. Either a laminate trimmer or a Dremil type tool with a good base. I always select a bit narrower than the banding. My first pass goes dead center. I then cut the edges with a climb cut to desired width.
I know, it sounds too fussy...I really is easy. It only requires moving reference fence with control.
I have not used any factory made bandings, but I would expect them to be very precise, so it would be a simple matter to route a groove for them.
I make my own bandings and while they are fairly precise, there are some variations, so I route the groove just a bit narrower than the banding and then lay it in place and scribe using one edge of the banding as a guide.
Minor gaps are really inevitable, but a drop or two of finish will fill them ( I use clear burn in sticks when using varnish, because it dries so slowly).
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
wood,
If you are making your own inlay striping, it is easiest to rout a trial groove in a scrap of the wood you are using for your project, then make the inlay to fit the groove. For a made-up banding, it may be easier to laminate the banding then cut its groove in two passes to get the width just right. Slight variations in width can be remedied by lightly scraping the edge, or scribing as Rob suggests.
Like Rob says, store bought is usually pretty uniform in width, and squeeze-out from the glue you use will help fill any minor gaps.
Rout the recess for the inlay slightly less in depth than the thickness of the inlay, so that after it is glued in place, you can scrape/sand it flush with the surface it's inlayed into.
Ray
To carry the question a little further - what are the best books on inlay? Especially on making the banding.
If you are making your own inlay, you can use a slight bevel, so that it gets tighter as you drive / clamp it in. There will be nothing to worry about if you are good at milling. I would use whatever cutter I have, so long as it is sharp. Then run the thickness on a small planer to get the width. Then cut a small bevel on the plank with a block plane, before you slice off the thin piece to match the depth, and repeat the bevel on each before cutting off each piece.
I would have bet money that Ray dude did an article on inlaying in an older issue of FWW. Or maybe it was about making it.
But then again he has been known to fret about his sash too.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Doing inlay doesnt seem to require a whole book. I can tell you from personal experience your going to have a hard time finding anything more than a page or two that gives any detailed information. As for making stringing, get a good digital caliper and use your table saw (blade closer to fence). Start with a good thick board with pretty darn straight grain and the next step is much easier. Assuming you know the exact width of groove then its just of matter fussing with saw to get it just right. Once done, get a good slicing gauge (with double bevel blade - look for balsa stripper on google) and make a bench hook looking device that can act as both a register and straight edge to guide knife. Start ripping stringing at a width slightly deeper than depth of groove. If your really into the bucks, you can check out Lie-Nielsens new inlay kit!
I attached an image of my most recent inly project if your interested.
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