Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 23, 2009 05:58pm | #1

   You don't want drug store isopropol alchohol.  Behlen Bekhol is a slower drying solvent for shellac and contains isopropanol.  Lacquer retarder will work with shellac--small amounts 1/2 oz. or a tad more to a quart of shellac.  You can also add pure gum turpentine--the usual ratio I've seen is 1 teaspoon to a half cup of shellac. 

   Here is a good link about thinning various finishes, including shellac.

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/fwnpdf/011151086.pdf

   Perhaps the best solution is to learn to live with the short drying time.  It's mostly just a realization that applying shellac is not at all the same as applying varnish.  You move quickly without stopping.  Ignore missed spots or problems.  Deal with them on the next coat, or with a spot of sandpaper after the finish has dried.  Some people like using a cloth pad to apply shellac.  I like very low reservoir brushes like synthetic fiber watercolor wash brushes.  Others like largish very soft fiber "mops".  Experiment on some scrap and it will get very much easier in a a short time as you find what works best for you. 

   
   

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   Edited 2/23/2009 10:12 am ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   Quickstep | Feb 23, 2009 09:01pm | #5

   I think Steve is correct when he says to live with shorter drying time. I've used retarder and although it does slow the drying time, it doesn't slow it enough to allow you time to tip off brush marks like you can do with varnish. I prefer to thin seal coat a bit so it flows out more. Maybe 1-1/4 to 1-1/2lb cut. Fine bristle brushes help too. I have a 1-1/2" Taklon brush and a 2" Corona. They help a lot with the brush marks. For me it's almost a psychological thing; it's hard to walk away from those brush marks or sags, but you have to. Most of them will go away when it dries, the rest can be sanded before the next coat. You don't need longer drying time, you need shorter brushing time. Flow it on quick and then leave and let it dry. 

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Feb 23, 2009 08:03pm | #2

   I'm far from being an expert on finishing, but I think you're defeating the purpose of SealCoat by retarding the drying time. To the best of my knowledge, SealCoat is a 1 pound cut of dewaxed shellac. Its sole purpose is to put on a VERY thin coat to protect the wood. By adding other chemicals (thinners) to it, You are going to mess up the DEWAXED feature. Use it right from the can. If you are working with large flat surfaces without moldings or details, a cotton pad will work nicely instead of a brush. Apply one coat, let dry for an hour and then lightly sand to remove any nibs or runs. Apply whatever stain or finish you plan to use in your normal manner. If the alcohol in the SealCoat is flashing off that fast, your work area may be too warm (hot).
   SawdustSteve

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 23, 2009 08:52pm | #4

    

   Seal Coat is 2 lb. cut dewaxed shellac.  You can thin it or not without affecting it's properties except for the thickness of the film.  It also works just fine as a final finish.  When you change the solvent from ethanol, to isopropanol you don't change the final film--the solvent evaporates and has no role in the end product, for good or ill.  The properties will be the same, and polyurethane and waterborne finishes should still adheere to it. 

   Turpentine isn't quite the same, and doesn't evaporate as completely, leaving some resin traces and less volatile fractions that might conceivably have an effect on the finish that is left.  I doubt there would be any significant effect, but just can't say for sure. 

3. 
   davcefai | Feb 23, 2009 08:13pm | #3

   A long time ago I read an article by somebody who had restored a vintage car. He painted the body parts by brush, using automotive spary paint.

   The way he retarded the drying time was to work in the bathroom, having filled the bath with hot water. The solvent evaporated slowly because of the high humidity.

   I am not endorsing, I am not recommending, I am simply reporting.

   And no, I cannot remember what respiratory precautions he took but this was in the 70's when solvents were apparenly less toxic :-)

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 23, 2009 09:02pm | #6

   "The way he retarded the drying time was to work in the bathroom, having filled the bath with hot water. The solvent evaporated slowly because of the high humidity."

   Bad idea.  Won't have much effect on the drying rate, but can lead to "blushing" in the finish as the water vapor becomes trapped in the film. 

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 24, 2009 06:34pm | #9

   "The way he retarded the drying time was to work in the bathroom, having filled the bath with hot water. The solvent evaporated slowly because of the high humidity."Not a good idea with shellac. All alcohol is hygroscopic and will absorb water.Howie.........

4. 
   RichClark | Feb 23, 2009 11:49pm | #7

   What are you Finishing? I am wondering as I am taking a class on French Polishing with twist and am willing to share what I have learned. For the application, I think is best with a "tampon" Ive tried brushing and such. But this method I am learning lets you use one "Tampon" (a cheese cloth ball within a twisted linen cloth) and completely finish your project in a matter of a few hours to a very high gloss shine (depending on size).

   Capt. Rich Clark
   --DUCT Tape is the "force"... It has a Light side and a Dark side and it binds the universe together
1. 
   Quickstep | Feb 24, 2009 03:34am | #8

   Rich, I'd like to benefit from whatever you've learned if you're willing to share. I've had a run a padding shellac, but I always get streaks so bad that I always end up going back to the brush.

1. 
   RichClark | Feb 25, 2009 01:31am | #10

   OK In a nut shell,
   You get a piece of cheese cloth about 6" square and tuck in the corners and edges till it forms a ball. You Charge that with a 1#
   cut of Shellac. You use just it, using light strokes with the grain until it begin to "drag" (your streaking has begun). Once you have reach this point stop recharge the cheese cloth and place the cheese cloth into a linen 6" square (I use cut up bed sheets) and this time twist the linen until you see the shellac bead out or can feel it on the back of your hand (and tap it flat on something like the shellac container). Then again stroke with the grain until this also begins to drag (Ie. its drying out). Now take a very small amount of olive oil and rub it on the end of your "tampon" (I cover the mouth of the oil bottle, tip it over and just rub my moistened finger on the Linen). Now you make circles with the pad. You do this until it also begins to "drag" (your leveling out your streaks as this time).Keep going until the pad is nearly dry to the touch, Twist out the shellac and press hard, You should see swirl marks that sorta flash off the board (but you'll still see oil film). Then you open your pad and charge the cheese cloth with "Pure" alcohol this time and put it back in and again twist until you see it flow out (your pad will turn back to its original color (white for instance form the lite brown with shellac in it). Tap it flat, and very lightly stroke with the grain (your removing the oil now) remember you using pure alcohol now so be gentle you don't have to do this forever examine the board and stop when its clear. (OK that is one rep) took me about 40-50 minutes for first coat, then subsequent ones go allot faster (your not filling in the wood anymore)You repeat this 3-5 times and your done! (Pic of black walnut, resawn, sanded to 220 filled and sanded to 320, then just 2 repetitions. ( have to prepare 3 more for class so I am not killing myself.) Took me maybe 2 hours start to finish.Capt. Rich Clark
   --DUCT Tape is the "force"... It has a Light side and a Dark side and it binds the universe together