Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Jun 10, 2008 06:16am | #1

         Hi g ,

              The first thing I would ask is, does the dw model in question have a trim that will accept a wood face ?

         Hoping the answer is yes there is certainly more then one way to do most things ,we are so lucky . Given the flush inset application you speak of the way I might go about it is to use a piece of 1/4" same specie behind the face and fasten the face frame , drawer front and door from behind while you have the components wedged to create the even reveal you want .

         There usually is a trim kit that accepts the 1/4" so the face may need to be relieved behind to cover the trim or just allow the backer sheet to fit into the trim .

           I hope this helps while maybe even making sense

                    good  luck           dusty

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 10, 2008 06:32am | #2

   If the DW is designed to allow accepting the custom panel you should be able to find detailed specifications on how that panel should be made.  These are usually on the web pages of the appliance maker, though if it's not a current model you may have to contact the customer service people.  You will need to have the exact model number of the DW. 

3. 
   ring | Jun 10, 2008 07:35am | #3

   Dishwashers come in various types as far as this is concerned. You must be sure of the type and exact model before you go ahead.

   1) Full integral DW - these are made to accept a full solid door (or the assembly you mention) which entirely covers the front of the machine. Controls are on the top edge and visible only when you open the door. These types always have very specific mounting provisions which are engaged through the inside face of the door. Don't "wing it" here - study the manufacturers' instructions before you go ahead.

   2) Semi-integral DW - these are similar but leave the control panel visible at the top of the machine, for more or less 5" depending on the model. Your wood facing starts underneath the control panel. These are also fixed from the inside of the door.

   3) Non-integral DW - these are made to accept a thin facing only, such as Formica or sheet metal or up to 1/4" ply with veneer. Usually have some trim around the door which creates a channel for the facing to sit in.

   Very important: Only types 1) and 2) have the springs and hinges corresponding to the weight of an added wood door. If you are very inventive and hang a door on type 3) you will at first be happy but soon have a DW with ruined hinges.

   As far as your actual question goes: We make the parts you mention (rails, drawer fronts, etc) 1/8" oversize in height. Make a shallow reveal to look like the clearance between them - basically a rabbet 1/16" by 1/4" deep. Glue the parts together using biscuits and treat it all as one door to mount. Don't skimp on the finish of the rear. These doors take a lot of steam and heat exposure, more punishment than any other door in the kitchen.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   gcg | Jun 10, 2008 05:05pm | #4

   David,

   Thanks much (others as well).  The dishwasher is of the type one variety you mentioned.  I'm really glad to hear someone else does it the same way I devised. 

   I thought about doing exactly what you said with cutting the reveal and am not really sure why I went with the spacers but maybe I thought it would be easier. 

   Do you think the spacers with the addition of biscuts will hold? I figure I can cut the slots in some spacer stock and then rip down the 1/16" spacers. 

   Thanks also for the tip on finish.  I was going to just prime the back but now the CV will go everywhere.

1. 
   ring | Jun 10, 2008 05:38pm | #5

   Sure, you can do it that way. It's just an easier process to biscuit all the parts and then at the last minute make that little rabbet before glue up. Now that I think of it, if I already had the spacers ready I'd tack them onto the edges with some glue and 23 gauge pins, then treat it as a whole and biscuit right thru the spacers. to tie it all together.David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

4. 
   Michael6255 | Jun 11, 2008 04:46am | #6

   G-

   I made two doors, and splined them together with a hardwood spline & glue to act as a solid front panel. Has worked for 21 years.

   Mike

5. 
   ring | Jun 11, 2008 08:34am | #7

   There's another quirky thing about making DW fronts, which you didn't even ask about but I thought I'd mention it now if anybody ever does a search for tips on doing integral dishwashers:

   There's a potential problem with the position of the bottom of a wood door. If the adjacent cabinets have a low toe-kick whose height you want to maintain, and if the hinge of the DW is considerably higher than that point, you can have a situation where the wood door, extending below the hinges, may bump into the toe-kick as the door is opened. It depends on the combination of a number of factors - the adjacent cabinets, the DW model, how recessed the toe-kick is, how much you need to crank up the leveling screws, and so on. If your toe-kick is less than 5", or if the countertop is unusually high, it should set off alarm bells. In this case, do a mock-up of the opening action to check that it will work all the way.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   gcg | Jun 11, 2008 04:32pm | #8

   Very good point. Thanks for bringing it up.