Hi Folks, I have been considering getting one of those branding irons to “sign” my work but it just doesn’t seem personal enough. I am wondering what my fellow knotheads do to make their mark.
Thanks for your help!
Brian
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast -
Our favorite articles and videos -
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I use several signatures, depending on the style of the piece, Wendell Castle, Stickley, Duncan Phyfe, etc. All the stringed instruments get Stradivarius.
Watch it, Dunc...I've got at least two of those names copyrighted. :O)
...But on most of my work I use a die a friend made for me. It imprints a logo containing my initials. Just a light tap with a hammer and the piece is marked. If I want to mark the piece with more information than that (such as the date or some mention of the kind of wood or it's source) I just use a fine, felt tipped indelible marker.
Years ago, I considered getting a branding iron, but then thought better of it. I've always been leary of using tools in my shop that have the potential of causing a fire.
Thanks Jon, I wonder if a machine shop would be the place to possibly have a small die made.
I could also use a bit of expert advice...I was just given a big (3.5" X 6.5" X 8') piece of what I believe to be white oak. I would like to post a picture of it in the hopes you can positively ID it. I know it's difficult from a photo but could we give it a try? I'll get a couple shots a little later after I plane the top a little.
Thanks!
Brian
Brian,
I don't know of a source for having inexpensive stamps made, although I would LOVE to find one. I have used Mercury Markings for years to make reproduction stamps in my business of making reproduction gunstocks for military weapons. Stamps cost well over $100 but I have had some I have used for years.
http://www.mercurymarking.com/HOME.htm
Anyone know of an inexpensive source? I know most machineshops wouldn't have the capabilities.
Michael
Normally I sign each piece in two places with a fine indelible pen, prior to finishing - one in a traditional location such as the back of a cabinet, and the other on a structural piece (where it might be missed by a burglar, and would be harder to paint over) such as the underside of a solid tabletop. The inscription is typically
Custom made for John Doe by Charlie Plesums, January 2004, Austin Texas.
Occasionally (on small pieces, or where there isn't an inside - like a stepping stool) I print a tiny note with similar content on the laser printer and embed it in the lacquer. I have been struggling with how to keep it from smearing. The best so far is a thin spray of lacquer over the paper alone, then bury it in one of the first coats.
That's a cool idea. I guess that in an out of the way spot with little or no wear to speak of that would last a good long time. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Brian
I print a tiny note with similar content on the laser printer and embed it in the lacquer. I have been struggling with how to keep it from smearing. The best so far is a thin spray of lacquer over the paper alone, then bury it in one of the first coats
Charlie, have you thought about reversed printing on a clear substrate like transparency film. (a couple of years ago I accidently printed some business cards on transparency film — they were way cool)
I thought about getting a branding iron, but unless you spend some money and get a custom one, they start to look a little plain. I was at a crafts show not to long ago, and every other guy had "HANDMADE BY ...." burnt into his work. I use a small wood burning pen, and sign each piece with the date. Takes practice, but looks great.
One of the type with all the different tips? For doing Pyrography (SP???). ? If I could do it with a fairly thin line, that might just work.
I've heard of people counterboring a small shallow hole and placing a new penny in it to date it too.
Thanks, Brian
I have a cheap one I bought from Lee Valley, but it works. I start by sanding the wood to 400 or so, since any grain will catch the pen, then I pencil what I want to say. I fire up the wood burner and slowly go over my design. It looks like a custom brand in the end.
Maker's Mark ....shop-made, of course.
“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.
Edited 1/2/2004 12:25:56 AM ET by Bob Smalser
Good question for discussion!
I haven't been signing my work much, but on that Rohirric chest it worked into the design. On the back rail the runes say: [Customer] het mec gewyrcan. Tim Bray. 2003.
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
Hey I like that- why not post some pics. of the whole chest
Ron
Ron,
There are pics of the chest (the one with the runes on it) over in the Gallery section, in the thread "Any Tolkien Fans?".
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
I often use a lead pencil because graphite is about as permanent as you can get. I sometimes add a bit of biographical material so that a future owner will know for whom it was made and the occasion of the presentation.
BJ
BrianMcG,
I had an ink stamp made that I use to imprint a piece of parchment paper, which is in keeping with the period nature of my work. I also have the branding iron with date attachment. I usually brand the finished piece and place a paper label over it, since the brand is not in keeping with the period. Some of my customers like the dated work, so I’m going to the John Townsend method of a printed ( stamped in my case) label with handwritten date. The problem with this is, my handwriting is horrendous, and I have trouble matching the florid script typical of our forefathers. For a time I worked in a machine shop, and they made me a name stamp with the same font used to mark tools such as molding planes, and I use this on some furniture where a label won’t work, like a tilt top candle stand.
I'm glad you found the method on the shellac and rubing out, helpful. Shellac is great stuff. Also, trust me when I say I'm lazy. I finished 27 pieces in 2003, but I had hoped for 40, which was a bit optimistic, but 35 would have been a fair number, if I'd kept at it.
Rob Millard
Hi Rob, I have a strong feeling that you gave each of those 27 pieces exactly the right amount time.
How about gluing a penny having the year the piece was made.
You sure don't need to buy anything...or at least pay much for it.....an old flea-market copper soldering iron will carve just dandy with woodworking tools and you can make your own Maker's Mark in an afternoon.
Flatten the tip on a grinder...cut out some magazine letters in the style you like and cement them to the flat...then drill out around them...then pare with carving chisels.....simple stuff.
“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.
I've been wondering the same thing for quite some time. I usually print my name and the date then sign each piece with an fine tipped indelible marker. I'm careful when applying the first coat of finish so as not to smudge anything. On a pencil post bed I made for my wife I wrote a poem in pencil on the back of the headboard. Something she knows is there but others miss.
Brian,
A friend of mine, for whom I made a piece a few years ago, had a branding iron created for me that says, "Custom made by" and my signature is under it. He got me to sign something, scanned and sent it to some company that made the iron. I use it for everything, the last thing I do before applying finish. I also date the piece and add any personal comments below the brand. Sorry, I don't have a source.
Kell
P.S. Happy New Year to all my Knots friends.
I have a branding iron, with just my unreadable signature. Then, sometimes, I add "Philadelphia 200x" in india ink, with a quill pen, using a printed format. The india ink is, I understand, quite permanent. Occassionally, a note is included also.
Alan
Brian
For any that may be interested in a 1" diameter round, flat button with wording you chose. Bore a 1/16" deep 1" wide hole wherever with a forstner bit and super glue in.
http://www.woodenpost.com
Scroll down to Idenification Medallions on the left side of the home page.
Regards...
sarge..jt
Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 1/4/2004 11:08:13 AM ET by SARGE
Surprisingly, I have a cabinet that was passed down in the family and has been authenticated by several reputable antique dealer/appraisers as circa 1850. Even though the peice is not signed, the cabinet makers dovetail layout marks, in lead pencil are still clearly visable. So I sign my work with a few old lead pencils, that I picked up at a flea market. You just have to find a place that will not see any wear or cover with finish. Tung, Danish and BLO don't seem to cause any reactions with the pencil.
Hi Brian,
After a lot of years of stamping my name into the furniture I build, I finally decided that there has to be a better way. Chris Pyre has written a really fine book on carving letters so I used his techniques to start a new method. After much practice, I now carve my name and date in the bottom of each piece. Not as difficult as it sounds. First I print out on the computer the type font I want (usually serif style which has lot of curly ends), spray a light coat of adhesive to the back of the paper and then stick in in some hidden place on the bottom. I then just carve through the paper into the wood. I've even done this with some very hard woods like ebony and maple. Hope this helps.
Dennis
Thanks Dennis, It does sound like it would take some practice. Does the size of the font change on different pieces? Or do you get used to one certain size chisel (assuming you use a chisel) and one size of lettering.
Brian
Hey Brian,
I try to stay with the same size font (about 3/4 in. tall) but have made it smaller to fit a smaller project. It does take a little practice but I think you would be surprised how quickly you pick up the techniques. Since I am repeating my own name over and over I pretty quickly learned where the "tough spots" are. Actually, I use at least 3 carving tools, a skew for outlining some letters, a 1/8 in. #5 gouge, 1/4" #3 gouge. Chris's book is very helpful and has inspired me to carve lettering on all sorts of things!
Dennis
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled