I really don’t know were to post this – Jigs, Plans or Gallery. If the Sysops want to move it, that‘s fine.<!—-><!—-> <!—->
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Attached are plans and pictures of a horizontal mortiser that I built. It’s loosely based on several commercial units. The main difference is that this one costs only about $20 – $30 or so to build, plus scrap plywood and MDF.<!—-><!—->
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The PDF’s are Visio plans showing the general dimensions. The actual project is slightly different because it is based on what I had on hand. The pictures are self explanatory. <!—-><!—->
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The main features of this unit are the XY table built on a simple box frame. The vertical router mounts use t-track epoxied into the MDF. The 3/8 threaded rod that runs through the tee nut gives a nice micro height adjust. Perhaps the most expensive parts are the miter track, runners and the hardware. I used a commercial track and UHMW plastic because I had some left over from another project. This track has a notch that allows me to use a thumb screw to limit the x axis. The Y (plunge) just bottoms out on the vertical router mount. I can’t see why a simple ¾ dado would not work fine. The same is true for the hold downs. The grids of holes in the table allow me to move the fence as needed. The holes are oversized for the ¼ – 20 bolts so that I can square the jug up easy. <!—-><!—->
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Email me if you have any questions. [email protected]<!—-> <!—->
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Neil<!—-> <!—->
Replies
Neil,
Thank you for posting the photos and PDF of your horizontal mortiser. This looks like something that would be relatively easy to build. I've got a couple of questions though...
Does the mortiser work well? In other words, are you satisfied with the mortises it cuts? Is there any deflection when routing in hard woods like or oak or maple that affects the size or perpendicularity of the mortise?
It looks as though it would be easy to set up for cutting. Do you just plunge the work into the bit by moving the tables with your hands? Does the bit catch and grab at all - I assume you're not using climb cutting, but if you take too large a bite, can the bit advance itself into the wood and cause it to grab inadvertently?
Again, thanks for your posting. You've put ideas in my head...
Oh, one more thing: Is the machine you built portable enough that you can set it under a bench on a shelf when it's not being used?
Zolton
Zolton,<!----><!----><!---->
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The mortiser seems to work well, and the cuts are equal that of a typical plunge router. I use a lot of floating tenons, so for me the cut is complete.<!----><!---->
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Set up is straight forward. The key is setting zero and the left and right travel. The XY table is just moved by hand, and I have not had any problems with grabbing, as the jig is heavy because of the MDF<!----><!---->
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It is big, but the vertical router mount is held on with bolts and tee nuts, so it can be removed quickly and easily.<!----><!---->
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Neil<!----><!---->
Be very careful with this setup. A slight error in judgement or forethought and it will zip your fingers in faster than you can let go.
I have a lot of routers and use them constantly in all sorts of setups. I've been there. Make a guard!
Hal
http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com
The safety issue did occur to me. . That’s one of the reasons I put a handle on the back end of the sled. Another thought would be to put a plastic guard directly above the bit.
Even better would be a clear dust hood.
Neil
Neil,
You can even do something as simple as shrouding the cutter with a block of wood that would not allow your fingers to possibly get in there.
The big problem with this setup is that you are breaking the basic safety rule of router tables (this is just a router table on edge). The basic rule is that you should never have your workpiece in a position that it could be pinched between the cutter and the fence.
I have had enough experience with this exact setup to be concerned for any novice woodworker that thinks this is a good way to cut mortise joints.
I wouldn't be as concerned about you, and you probably have it figured out, but there is a chance that others will copy you. If they feed the wood in the wrong direction, it will self feed faster than they can get their hands out of harm's way, and their fingers will be sucked into the cutter.
My guitar has been in the attic for many years.
Hal
http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com
Hal,<!----><!----><!---->
You are absolutely correct. The setup does have a “pinch point” between the rear fence, bit and the moving work piece. I tend to be careful about these types of setups as well. That’s actually the reason I put the knob at the rear. When my hand is positioned in a safe place, I know where all of my fingers are.<!----><!---->
The new photos and plans show a simple plastic guard epoxied to a block of wood. It can be repositioned by simply moving the screws. With the guard in attached, it would be hard to get your fingers in the wrong place.<!----><!---->
The plastic came from a project that required shatterproof material. <!----><!---->
Neil<!----><!---->
Neil,
That looks really great! Good for you for doing it.
Do you have issues when doing cuts in endgrain wood that is really hard? I have had a had time with this in things like Jatoba, using small (1/4") cutters in routers. Maybe your carriage helps with this.
Hal
Edited 1/4/2007 11:50 pm ET by Hal J
Hal,<!----><!----><!---->
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I have not had any real issues, but I tend to user larger bits (3/8" or 1/2"). The hardest wood that I have used is hard maple and teak, which I do not believe is as hard as Jatoba, but still tough.<!----><!---->
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End grain more difficult that long grain for sure. You can hear the difference.<!----><!---->
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For most of my mortises I have used a simple right angle jig with a slot for a router collar. That method has the advantage that it goes anywhere; the XY table makes the piece come to the table. Additionally, If the jig isn’t really clamped tight, end grain does tend to pull it. That was on of the reasons I built the table.
Neil
Neil,
Thanks for your reply and the additional information. It sounds like this rig works very well for you - and, hopefully, will for me in the future when I build one like it!
Yours, Zolton
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