I am considering buying the Hitachi M12V router exclusively for router table use. I am currently using the Bosch 1617EVS and like it very much. I intend to do some cabinet work and will be using much larger bits than I have in the past, and understand that I may need more HP. If it weren’t for the sale on the Hitachi (see Amazon), I would live with the Bosch (taking several shallow cuts).
Several people have expressed their satisfaction with the Hitachi in this forum. I would like to know if anyone has had a bad experience with this router, or would not recommend using this router in a table, and why. Please comment on height adjustment (which is particularly good on the Bosch), ruggedness and reliability, and what affect, if any, accumulation of chips and dust has on its operation. (As a note, I would not buy a router height adjusting plate.)
I would also welcome any comments on the need for a 3+ HP router in a router table (over a 2.25 HP router).
Thanks very much.
Bert
Replies
I use mine in my table. I have really been happy with it, but,hieght adjustment is something that i would have to complain about. i've been looking at the router razer for it and think that would be a $90 well spent. but it does a great job especially the price. Remember though the base only has about a 2 1/2" hole though so a few bits arent usable.
I got the M12V for general use, but it is so heavy that I now use it exclusively in a table. Plenty of power, but the height adjustment is irritating - basically turning a nut (with an optional handle to make it easy to turn the nut). This allows precise adjustment of the height, but if I want to change the height a lot, it requires a lot of twisting. And sometimes you have to adjust it a lot to get the bits installed.
When I got mine, the collet was too tight (think of it as a cylinder with one through cut and two partial cuts). As I tried to bend it to make it work, it broke (now think of it as 2/3 of a cylinder and 1/3 of a cylinder). I expected to need to order a new one, but needed the router right then, so I tried it. It was great - the best thing that could have happened - the collet works the best of any I have used. Easy to tighten, secure, easy release. If I got a new one, I would intentionally break it.
________________________
Charlie Plesums Austin, Texas
http://www.plesums.com/wood
Thanks very much for your reply. "You get what you pay for" seems to always apply. My old Ryobi router has the same type of height adjustment, and it is cumbersome to use even with a knob. I am concerned about the 2 1/2" base plate opening diameter (for router bits). Can you tell me what that opening would be if I cut off the template guide mounting ears from the base? The manual (down loaded from Amazon) doesn't show that diameter.
Again, thank you for taking the time to help.
Bert
I have used large panel raising bits in the router and have never come close to having to modify the router. Remember that the large bits operate below the base (above the base in a table) and are not plunge bits.
I also was concerned when I bought mine, but someone on another forum (who had repeatedly proven himself to be a real tool expert) emphatically said that this (and other routers) do not need to be, nor should they be, modified for large bits. And as I said, this advice has proven true over a wide range of use.
It might be easier to install the bits if some of the plunge and guide features were not on the router, but there is certainly not a requirement to modify it. ________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
Sold.
Thanks very much for your comments. I can't afford to make too many mistakes when buying ww tools, even these less expensive ones. The experienced people on this forum have been really helpful to the lesser experienced ones. like myself. I appreciate this help very much.
I have the M12, and most of the time it is mounted in my table. Sometimes, I take it out for a specific job at a customer site. (Just last week, I needed to enlarge the lockset holes on a number of doors. Try to find a flush-trim bit with 1 3/4 cutting depth, for any of the smaller routers.)
I tend to agree that the height adjustment can be tedious. It takes a lot of turning on the nut. Mine came with the handle that is supposed to make that easier. It does, but a crank would be even better.
Chip and dust accumulation has not been a problem for me. My table and fence is home-made, and has an attachment for my shopvac -- note that this is quite imperfect. So if chips could be a problem, I would have experienced it. And I have not.
Overall, I like it enough to dream about buying a second one -- so that one can stay in the table forever.
I've had this router for over a year now and really like it for use in my router table....in which it hasn't left. Bought it at Lowes for around 169 which is pretty cheap HP. I also bought the router raizer at a ww show for 89. There probably are better lifts on the market but it does work well and for the $ can't hardly be beat.
I followed the Router Workshop suggestion and removed the springs. Height adjustment is not much of a bother without the resistance. I have 2 M12V's - one in the table and one at the ready. Bob and Rick finally posted the instructions on how to remove the springs on their web site.
Only problem I have had is 1/4 inch upcut bits creeping out of the collet. I've gone to purely 1/2 inch bits in the table.
Good luck.
I took the springs out of mine too right after i got it. i also took off the handles. makes it easier took adjust the router in the cabinet. could you please post the link for that routershop site? thanks
try here!
http://www.oak-park.com/
Hope this helps you.If nothing sticks to Teflon,how does Teflon Stick to metal. Huh
thanks
Ive had the hitachi for 18 years in a router table and use it often. Advice about no problem using large panel raising bits is correct. You never lower the bit enough to come in contact with the base. Most bits are close enough in height requirements that raising and lowering the bit isn't much of a problem. On the plus side, you can make very accurate adjustments. AS someone said, taking the springs out helps some. Other than replacing the brushes, it's been maintenace free. I have raised several hundred door panels and lots of molding and never a hitch. I make furniture full time and can buy a new router anytime. Some of the latest routers would be an upgrade, but not much of one so I keep using the old.
yea i had checked mine with a horizontal panel raiser after someone else had mentioned it and found that in the table it works just fine. I had only really included that in my earlier post as that seems to be mentioned in every router comparison in every magazine i read. the newest AWW does a router test and mentions it again saying that it makes it harder to change bits from the top. BTW the hitachi tied with frueds 3hp for top value tool but its cheaper than the frued.
Check out the link below for several pages on the M12V:
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm
There is plenty of info there.
Jeff
the hitachi is agreat router, nice soft start, well balanced, plenty of power
keep in mind, its a big tool so save the smaller router for small work
in a router table? its big and powerful, so have a big heavy router table, when any 3 hp router winds up to speed, you'd better have a strong grip
caulking is not a piece of trim
Any body else find the collet nut a real pain in the knuckle to bust loose. Its the hardest to get loose out of all of my other routers. In order to get it to hold the bit I have tighten it to the max.
I broke my collet nut along the groove, and it has become the best collet I have ever used. It was too stiff as it came from the factory - mine didn't open enough to get a bit in, and I accidentally broke it trying to bend it enough to work. But I don't want to change it's new personality. ________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
i've never had a problem with the collet nut, just gently snug it up and its never slipped
try cleaning it in varsol or laquer thinner, it may have some oil on itcaulking is not a piece of trim
Hitachi M12V router (post #96673)
Hi. I know this was posted many years ago, but, I have an M12V and I have it in a table, AND was having the same "walking" problem with 1/4" bit (1/2" collet w/1/4" adapter). I have found that if I take very very light cuts, the bit doesn't seem like it wants to "walk". I just ordered another 1/2" collet and 1/4" adapter from ereplacementparts.com and hope the "walking" problem will be solved. If not, I think I may purchase an M12VE. We'll see what happens. Happy woodworking.
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