Replies

1. 
   zolton | Jul 03, 2009 03:32pm | #1

   I had this done back in the 1980's with an old Atlas tablesaw. The reason I did it wasn't rusting or pitting. It was the fact that the saw, used for years in a lumberyard, was worn around the center of the table where most of the ripping took place. It was dished around the blade about .020.

   I had just the tabletop, not the wings, ground. The wings, because they are adjustable up and down, didn't need to be surfaced. Also, they were already flat and relatively unworn. When the saw went back together I just realigned the wings to the top and that was that.

   The grinding, as I recall, was about 60 bucks. It was well worth it, as it resulted in a near-perfectly flat top with a nice finish. I used the saw for another 20 years until a few years ago when I replaced it with a Grizzly. Ironically, I sold it for more than I paid for it originally, including the grinding...

   Zolton

   If you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon

1. 
   levelone | Jul 03, 2009 06:35pm | #2

   Thanks for the reply.  I am trying to combat the voices in my head saying "machining will affect internal stresses in the casting, thereby causing it to warp beyond usefulness."  I've read that somewhere, so it is good to hear at least on person who has had good luck with the machining.

    

2. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 03, 2009 08:05pm | #3

   Some of you might die when I tell you I initially used my belt sander to get down to mostly shiny metal. .. Not here.. OK, I just use my orbital sander to get off glue and such. My shop is not heated or air conditioned. I for some reason never get any rust? And Chicago had as much humidity as any place on earth except for maybe a rain forest!

   I am trying to combat the voices in my head saying "machining will affect internal stresses in the casting.. It may and then again you may get lucky. I'd say, if the iron is old, it will not change very much. I would assume surfaced ground not milled... Surface grinding is sort of gentle as far as metal goes.. And I doubt for $150 it will be milled. But what do I know?

   
   

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   Edited 7/3/2009 1:11 pm by WillGeorge

3. 
   roc | Jul 04, 2009 11:42am | #4

   > I don't have a machinist straight edge

   I would recommend getting one. You will use it for all kinds of things. This is a pricy Starrett but if treated like the great delicate prize that it is It will be good for a life time.

   I am going on about twenty five years with this one. comes out to about ten dollars a year and getting cheeper all the time !

   : )

   I think this is a 48 incher.

   How else are you going to check the machinist's work ? Oh you weren't going to check it after ward ? I could tell you horror stories . . .

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   
   

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   Edited 7/4/2009 4:46 am by roc

   
4. 
   Mackwood | Jul 04, 2009 10:46pm | #5

   I had this done to a 1950 Unisaw table.  Have your machinist bolt the wings to the table and grind/mill the whole thing as a unit if possible.

   It is a great thing to have a very flat table on your saw.  You can then use it for a quick reference for all manner of things.

   You will have to get the "arm" on your miter gage milled down or it will stand up higher than your table.  Do this and any other accessories that will need it all at the same time. 

   I think you're getting a good price as well.  I paid a bit less for mine but that was a number of years ago.

   Regards,

   Mack

   "Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"

5. 
   Spalted | Jul 06, 2009 05:29am | #6

   I second the recommendation. It sounds like just another gadget(the straightedge) and there are those that'll teach you to make it outta wood, but for my money the lee valley 24 is a good buy and plenty straight. Long enough to true your joiner and short enough to store flat in a drawer. I use mine all the time to set up the router table precisely and to check all manner of tool reference surfaces. I also use it as a winding stick for diagnosing door twist too.

   It will help keep your machinist honest too!

   
   

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   Edited 7/5/2009 10:30 pm ET by Spalted

1. 
   levelone | Jul 06, 2009 07:11am | #7

   Thanks to all for the help, suggestions and comments.

   So, here's the deal.  I took both wings and the top to the machinist on Friday.  He was the 3rd in a chain of referrals I'd had as one who had a mill large enough to handle the 20" x 27" top.  I don't live in a city so options were somewhat limited.

   To make a long story short, he used a 4" end mill and spent considerably more time than either of us thought it would take.  It turns out his machine didn't have enough travel and he had to set up twice for the main top.

   After taking between .006" and .012" off (more off the top, less off one of the wings) the surfaces were flat and the rust marks were gone, but there were machine marks I had to remove by hand once I brought them home.

   I was with him the whole time he worked and considering the method used, he did an okay job.  But, it was the wrong method.  Someone wrote that Grizzly will machine tops using a sanding technique, but being that I was in a hurry, I didn't want to wait to find out about it.  I kick myself as I live less than an hour away from the Bellingham, WA, location.  I am curious what Grizzly charges to do this, so I have an email in to them.  It'll be interesting to compare prices.

   Hopefully this experience will help others in a similar situation.

1. 
   RonT | Jul 22, 2009 10:53pm | #8

   I would be surprised if Griz had any shop capability to make the fix you needed.

   The correct method would have been to use a horizontal grinder to level your top. the finish would have been the same as what you find on new machines.

   But, if the top is flat, the quality of the finish shouldn't be an issue. I'd check it with a straight edge and feeler gauges.

   Good luck.

1. 
   levelone | Jul 22, 2009 11:37pm | #9

   Grizzly has the facility to surface tops, but only their own.  They do not take on other manufacturer's products.

   All said and done, I am pleased with the way my saw turned out; however, next time I will seek a machine shop with the proper equipment.  Thanks for the reply.

2. 
   PeteBradley | Jul 23, 2009 03:41am | #10

   > After taking between .006" and .012" off (more off the top, less off one of the wings) the surfaces were flat and the rust marks were gone, but there were machine marks I had to remove by hand once I brought them home.
   >Hopefully this experience will help others in a similar situation.You went from one set of marks that don't affect the accuracy of the saw in use, to another set of marks that don't affect the accuracy of the saw. Thanks for sharing the lesson.Pete