My old Crown Butts have given up the ghost and I have a good old set of Stanley “handyman” Yellows. After a little flattening and sharpening, they turned out to be surprising good. Much better edge holding than I thought. Not the beaters I’d always used them for.
So…
I want to shorten the handles and re-round the ends for a more comfortable “butt” feel. The actual shortening is obviously not a problem but grinding the relatively soft yellow plastic to a round over is. At least for me. I may be blind to the obvious.
Any thoughts?
(for those not familiar with them, they are short shaft mounted into a goodly length of plastic)
BB
Replies
Rather than trying to round over the handle. What about turning a wooden end cap with recess for the handle and glue (and screw) it on? Otherwise I would use a Dremel with a cutting bit to rough out the shape. Files should get you the rest of the way.
Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
Len,Thanks for such a quick response. Wood would be an interesting look but I think if I put that much effort into them they would look too good and get an attitude problem.:-)I'm really after just the plastic with minimal filing as I would like the finished product to look somewhat "factory"
ThanksBB
I completely understand. I just spent a day making a shelf that will never be seen. I still put oil rubbed bronze hardware on it. I admit it's for a client so even if it's not seen they will know I spent the time.
Just a thought. What about using some plastic dome caps or plastic feet from McMaster Carr?
Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
Ill Take a look.
BB
BB,
Cut them to length and shape. Use a propane torch to melt/smooth out the cut end. Careful, not too much heat until you get the hang of it.
-Jerry
Nazard,Had not thought about a torch. May be just the ticket and it would save me from the plastic rouge and the buffing wheel.Thank YouBB
nazard,
Your torch suggestion got me to thinking.
If he is quick about it, a fellow can press the still- molten plastic right into his palm so that it conforms perfectly to the shape of his hand. Once the scar tissue forms, he won't even need a mallet.
A simple wave identifies fellow members of the "hot to be a woodworker" fraternity. Kinda like that Kung-fu guy's wrists.
Ray
Ray,
Those are Craftsman chisels??
-Jerry
Not C R A P S M A N but
S T A N E L Y . older and somewhat better- maybe.circa 1955-1970?. Not the ones with the metal beater caps.You know, if I get the plastic hot enough, I can leave little black burning blobs on the end of my stones so the guides don't fall off.
Such is the art of the tool (fool) modifier.BB
Jerry,
.....maybe.
Ray
Form fit. Yeah, thats the ticket!BB
Just use a coarse file (or rasp) followed by a finer one.
Plastic under goes a change when melted. It becomes brittle.
Take care, Mike
Mike,Now that I've given it some though and in light of your skills, perhaps just progressive files followed by a buff. But usin da flame did sound fun! Darn.ThanksJohn
Once the end of the plastic is filed and sanded to a reasonably smooth surface, I seem to recall from a "How It's Made" segment, that a quick dip in acetone, or something like that, will "polish" the surface. Otherwise, I'd finish it on a cotton buffing wheel with fine compound.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled