Replies

1. 
   chuckh | Jun 02, 2008 07:24pm | #1

   Jointerman,

   I tell folks, "Don't practice on your projects.", but sometimes you have no choice.

   For the task you described, I might suggest a block plane.  A smaller, lighter tool will give you more precise control.  I love my 60 1/2 for those applications.

   Of course, if you don't own a block plane, then use what you got!

   Regards,

   -Chuck

1. 
   jointerman | Jun 02, 2008 08:24pm | #3

   Chuck,I've got a LN rabbet block plane that I love. It's been great for scribing my bookcase to the wall (its a built-in that I'm building). Someday, I'll get a 102 or 103. But the bench plane gets used so rarely that I wanted to get some time on it. Also, I thought that the action of a larger bench plane would be easier to control and handle. It was, but I think I should have adjusted it for a light pass toward the end.

2. 
   blewcrowe | Jun 02, 2008 08:20pm | #2

   Hand planed plywood. Now thet there is class. <g>

    

   Denny

1. 
   jointerman | Jun 02, 2008 08:44pm | #4

   Hmm... I was just looking to make my plywood that much smoother! Actually, it was the hardwood edge band that I was planing, the plywood just got in the way!

1. 
   BG | Jun 02, 2008 10:57pm | #5

   Jointerman,
   I can't believe this, I just did a similar thing. Building a couple of small cabinets of poplar for the bathrooms...the tenons needed just a touch..but the rabbet block plane felt so gooood. And then noticed I could clean up all those pencil marks on the legs with the 4.5...

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Jun 03, 2008 08:54am | #8

   Denny,

   I actually hand-plane the edges of plywood fairly regularly - but never the face.  With a sharp blade, I get great results.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   blewcrowe | Jun 03, 2008 04:17pm | #10

   I actually hand-plane the edges of plywood fairly regularly ........

   Well, you wood. 

   Denny

3. 
   philip | Jun 02, 2008 11:32pm | #6

   ...."wood filler is my friend!"
   I don't think so. Put it away.
   If you are working a combination of solid and ply as with applied edges or ply inlays there is no reason why you should not be able to do clean up work, levelling etc with your smoother or small plane . Very fine cut, sharp blade and care not to cut away the veneer....How thick is a ply veneer when compared to a thin shaving?
   If you are familiar with the versatility of a card scraper then this is a viable alternative if not a complementary method.

   Philip Marcou
1. 
   jointerman | Jun 02, 2008 11:58pm | #7

   I'd love to put the wood filler away, but my current hand plane skills don't allow it. I totally agree that the plane should not have got through the plywood veneer. But I think that one of the areas that was being planed was already flush, and I just kept going! The cut was set a little deeper cause the plane blade was nice and sharp!As for the card scraper... practicing with the card scraper, I noticed that I can easily make an edge out of square while admiring those little itty bitty curly cues!Maybe a sanding block is a better choice at times?

1. 
   philip | Jun 03, 2008 12:15pm | #9

   Joint,
   If you are getting those litlleittybitty curls from your scraper then that is a step in the right direction, ah believe.
   But the sanding block.....these are quite good at sanding through veneers if you depend on them for levelling. Seems that there is always a scratch or two remaining-which can be fatal.Philip Marcou

2. 
   tom77 | Jun 03, 2008 04:26pm | #11

   jointerman,I have struggled with the same problem. Try sharpening the plane blade with a slight camber, and then orient the plane at an angle so that the trailing edge rides on the plywood. This gives better control. The depth of cut can be varied by changing the location on the blade that is over the edge. Deeper cut in the center of blade. Shallow cut near the cambered edge. Then: practice, practice, practice.Good luck, Tom.

2. 
   boilerbay | Jun 03, 2008 06:16pm | #12

   I would agree with smaller block and then scraper, but I would also point out that while your planes and techniques may be flawless, most commercial plywood is not. Put a Starett on the ply. Most plywood veneers undulate, or have a weak glue spot, or have uneven drying from a swirl or knot edge. Just enough to catch and edge.
   After a few decades of hardwood edge banding on ply, I've come on this more often than not.
   Mario Rodriquez has a good technique to handle this stuff.
   Check out edging in

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=27549RegardsBoiler

1. 
   philip | Jun 03, 2008 11:23pm | #13

   You have a point. I was talking with Furniture grade plywood in mind- such as those Imbuia ply inlays on the table tops pictured.
   Then again, the veneer on commercial or worse grade plywood is often quite thick (at least that was the case in my world).Philip Marcou