Replies

1. 
   Alan | Jun 11, 2004 02:50am | #1

   yieldmap,

   There is an actual product for filling grain which most of the good catalog outfits carry.  It's not too hard to come by.

   Beware of the "experts" in your local big box.  They usually don't know what you're asking for and will steer you to wood putty--which is often misnamed "wood filler."  The product they'll try to sell you won't work.  Grain filler is much thinner than wood putty.

   Oil finishes will fill the grain if they are sanded in and make the surface just as smooth as a grain filler.  A wood with big pores, like red oak, will require several sanded-in coats of oil to completely fill the grain.

   A sanded-in oil finish will have the same satin feel of any other oil finish.  I don't see the sense in sanding in an oil if that isn't going to be the top coat; but if you really want to, after waiting a good long time to let the oil completely cure, you can put varnish, lacquer, shellac or any compatible film on top.

   Alan

2. 
   forestgirl | Jun 11, 2004 09:05am | #2

   If you want a "glass-smooth" surface, you'll almost certainly have to use a grain filler.  My limited experience with them is it takes lots, and lots, of practice.  If you don't really need that type of finish (mostly for tabletops and pianos, eetc.), I would strongly urge you to try a wetsanding technique instead.  I've tried it on red oak and really like it.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   RMillard | Jun 11, 2004 02:02pm | #3

   I have no experience filling the grain of oak, but I have done it with walnut several times and mahogany dozens of times. I prefer the oil based filler sold by Constantine's ( I have not used water based filler) . I used Behlen filler once but it dries too fast, although the addition of a little linseed oil would have lengthened the open time. As for the process it could not be more simple. I never apply the filler to raw wood, instead apply it over a seal coat of very thin shellac or an oil finish. The filler from Constantine's has to be thinned, most of the time I use naphtha for this, but in hot weather I use mineral spirits to slow the set time. At first it would be a good idea to work only in small sections, until you get an idea of how long you have to wipe the filler off. I slop the filler on with a disposable brush , wait until it turns dull and then scrape it off with plastic putty knife. Follow this with burlap working across the grain. You will go through a lot of burlap, as it will load quickly. I then let the filler set a few minutes and wipe fairly hard with the grain, using cheese cloth . This last step is the most important, because the burlap can leave tell tale smears of filler on the surface which are hard to see until the top coat goes on. Let the filler dry at least 3 days but 5 is better, before applying a top coat, which in my case is either shellac or varnish. While filler is most commonly used for only tops, I use it for all surfaces except for carved areas. I said the process is simple and it is, but it is also messy and boring, but no single step does more to produce a truly professional finish.

   Rob Millard

4. 
   PlaneWood | Jun 11, 2004 07:46pm | #4

   I use Benjamin Moore & Co. Wood Grain Filler.  The number on the can is "238 05".

   Put it on with a wide spatula and work it into the grain going first with the grain then across the grain.  Let dry a little then use a hand scraper or a sharp straight edge to scrap off the residue.  After several days of drying then use a scraper plane or 220 grit sandpaper to smooth off the surface.  A second coat may be necesssary.  Makes lots of dust when sanding so blow off the surface and then pad off the surface with a tack rag.  I stain afterwards.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

5. 
   jazzdogg | Jun 12, 2004 06:30am | #5

   Yieldmap,

   Wet sanding an oil finish does create a slurry that fills the pores in oak, mahogany, walnut, etc. I've had the best results using Liberon Finishing Oil and sanding starting with 220-grit silicon carbide wet-or-dry abrasive and working through, depending on the species, 400, 500 or even 600.  Wait a day between grits. With oak's large pores, I'll sometimes sand twice with 220-grit before proceeding to 320. 

   My favorite oil-based pore filler is also made by Liberon. My favorite water-based is Enduro brand, sold by Compliant Spray Systems - it dries a LOT slower than any other water-based pre-filler I've tried.

    Make sure you scrape or sand to remove all mill marks before you begin finishing.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

6. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Jun 12, 2004 07:37am | #6

   I use Enduro by Compliant Spray Systems.  My method is staining the wood, apply one coat of sanding sealer, then work in the wood filler( it is paste like in consistency ).  They have clear and an amber color.  You can also tint the filler if you want to highlight the grain.  The filler will shrink, so it may take 2-3 coats on oak.  Then apply one more coat of sanding sealer, sand, then use either their WB lacquer or poly on top. 

   
   

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   Edited 6/12/2004 12:55 am ET by craig