Replies

1. 
   creekwood | Apr 01, 2003 12:01am | #1

   Jeff, is it paper-backed veneer, or single ply with no backing? Contact cement is not good for unbacked veneer, and I only use it on plastic laminate. I'm just not comfortable with how long contact glue will last, there's no repairing or re-glueing it, and it never dries hard. I suggest looking into hide glue, and using the hammer-veneering method. It does a great job, and is fairly easy to learn. Plus it gives you a new skill.

1. 
   jeffb | Apr 01, 2003 12:12am | #2

   These are the same complaints that the salesman had.

   This is just raw, unbacked veneer.  I'm sure I'll have to do some reading, but isn't hammer veneering essentially pressing the veneer down similar to how you would with contact cement?  Does hide glue get sticky so it holds the veneer flat until cured?  Also, it is appropriate for a large area (mine is 60" x 18")?

1. 
   creekwood | Apr 01, 2003 02:11am | #3

   Jeff, Tage Frid said you can veneer the whole world by hamer veneering. Your surface area is not too large, but you should get some info on how to do it. In the Fine Woodworking On series, in the veneering book, Tage explains what you need to get started. I used this info and am in the process of building an elaborate curved pulpit for my church. Hide glue goes on both surfaces in a hot state. You lay the veneer on the substrate, and you have the freedom to move it around, unlike contact glue. The veneer hammer is basically a squeegee. Pressure is applied to squeeze out the excess. When the glue cools, it will then grab. The trick is applying pressure with the hammer at the time it cools. A household iron is used with a damp rag to reheat the glue through the veneer, to resoften it. I've had great success with this procedure, and I think you can, too. In the book it explains how to make the seams. I hope I've been of help. Have to go now. Any more questions, and I'll answer to the best of my ability.