Replies

1. 
   pritcharded | Mar 06, 2003 07:16am | #1

   Brian

   I recently made a set of timber frame kitchen cupboard doors with glass panels. I made mine from 22mm x 55mm stock (finished size) and went to the trouble of properly mortising and tenoning the joints. After I lacquered the frames, my local glazier just cut and fitted the glass using a fine bead of silicon sealant to hold the glass in the back rebate. It's given a perfect job, no rattles and nice and neat. Cheap too - about US$3/door to supply, fit and fasten the glass. Not the traditional method but then 18th century craftsmen didn't have access to 21st century technology!

   Ted

1. 
   brian1 | Mar 06, 2003 07:22am | #2

   Thanks for the tip.  How large was the piece of glass?  I plan on using 3/4 clear pine and I am concerned about the weight of the glass.

   - Brian

2. 
   clampman2 | Mar 06, 2003 07:38am | #3

   Brian,

   Assuming you use a router setup for your cope and stick, one easy fast way to do them is to run your copes and sticks, glue up the door without panels or glass, then rout off the back side with a bearing equipped 3/8ths rabbeting bit. You will have to make a couple careful climb cuts before finishing off in the normal direction. If you cheat your cutters toward the door face, or use 13/16ths stock, that will give you more room for a small molding to hold the glass in. Chisel the rounded corners square first of course.

   A 1/4" diameter bead looks so good, many people think it should be facing the room rather than inside the cabinet.

   Good luck

   Clampman

3. 
   RoyinMD | Mar 06, 2003 08:03am | #4

   Brian,

   I just finished a wall display cabinet for my shot glass collection. The original one was 13 years ago, pine with lap joints and rabbit. The door was about 19" x 42 ", 1 1/2" wide x 1/2" thick. The new one is walnut with miters and rabbit, 24" x 43", 1 1/2" wide x 13/16" thick. Both have double strength glass (double thick, 1/8") and installed with just glazing push points, a couple inches from each corner and about every 6 inches. The recent piece of glass was $42. I went with double strength the first time because I had a toddler running around at the time. I like the sound feeling if taped on and the vibration proof when walking by it. Not as tinny if you know what I mean.

   Both are plenty sturdy enough, however, they are for display and not for use. The extra thickness on the new walnut one really makes a difference.

   Enjoy, Roy 

4. 
   DonC | Mar 06, 2003 11:14pm | #5

   For frame that hold glass, I route a double stepped rabbit. One rabbit holds the glass and the bigger rabbit holds thin strips that are screwed into the frame with #4 screws. To visualize the crosssection of the frame, draw a rectangle to represent the frame. At one edge draw a double step. I saw this in a wood amdazine and have used it ever since. Replacing glass is dirt simple.

   Don

5. 
   ccampbell | Mar 06, 2003 11:20pm | #6

   Brian,

   I built glass doors with fake dividers for my fireplace surround.  They are roughly 20"x30".  I set the glass in a bead of silicon caulk and then set 1/4" strips of the same wood in another bead of caulk on the back side of them.  They are rock solid, rattle free, and the doors look just as nice open as closed.