Hi,
I was able to find a Vintage Craftsman table saw insert and it fits almost perfectly. The only problem is that it is a bit lower than the bed of my table saw. I got the inserts through McFeeley’s and they are made of phenolic laminate and the brand name is Leecraft. So my issue is that I have to get it up slightly to be flush with the bed of the table saw. With the directions they go into a rather lengthy way to do this which involves using either Polyester Auto-body filler (Bondo), this 2-part epoxy glue, or 2-part epoxy putty. You are to apply “B-B” (1/8″ diameter) sized amounts to 4 spots on the underside of the insert. Before that you have to apply paste wax, silicone spray, or another release agent to the cast iron to prevent adhesion. After applying the bondo, etc you are to press the insert into the opening and press down firmly to get a flush fit with the bed of the saw. After the material is cured you tap the insert from underneath to remove.
Maybe it’s me but I was going to use some masking tape to get the insert flush. Anyone go through this process (with the bondo, etc) and have good results? Or would you do like me and use tape evenly spaced on the underside of the insert? It is my guess that all of you probably just make them from wood and just plane down to get the exact thickness. Any advice would be appreciated.
Regards,
Buzzsaw
“Don’t ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive.” Gil Bailie
Replies
Buzz -
I posted this picture in another thread not long ago, but will post it again.
I also have an old (mid-80's) Craftsman TS. For the past 3-4 years, I've been making inserts from 1/4" ply and adding 3-4 layers of duct tape to the underside to bring them flush with the table top.
I make 4-5 "blanks" at a time and sand them for a snug fit. I don't try to use adjustment screws or any kind of "hold down" and have never had one try to get away.
It's definitely low-tech, but it seems to work just fine.
Thanks. My vintage Craftsman table saw's insert is only 3/32" thick so the 1/4" ply is much too thick for my needs. I will probably make my own going forward but I thought I would try out these from McFeeleys. In hindsight I should've just made them myself and saved the $$$. I will just end up using masking tape or painters tape on the underside to get them flush. That whole process with using the Bondo was a little out of control. It's crazy that they make it so elaborate. Anyway, thanks so much for the post..Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
WHen I make inserts for my saw I wax them and then put four spots of hotmelt glue on the bosses and push it down in it till flush. The hotmelt won't stick to the wax and it can be popped off the metal. Has worked well for ten years :)
I hadn't thought of that, but it sounds like a good solution to the problem.
Just remember when you bring your blade up to cut the first hole to use another piece of wood as a hold down as the insert wont stick unless you don't was it
Can't answer your direct Q because I make my own from 1/2" MDF. Using the supplied throat plate as a template, I drill 7/64" holes and then thread a 1/4 X 3/8 allen. It self taps in MDF, leaves a little pucker that you can knock right off with a blade.
Hobby stores carry milled basswood strips in a variety of thickness down to 1/32". I used them as shims and then fine-tuned with shims made of blue painters tape. It may not look very neat, but it works.
Hi Buzzsaw,
I use 1/2" melamine for my tablesaw inserts. The low pressure laminate is reasonably hard and stays pretty slick with a little wax. Then I use small 1/2" flat head hinge screws, only because they're handy, at each bottom corner of the throat plate. That allows me to get a perfectly flush and non-rocking plate simply by adjusting the screws in or out. I like a good fit (no play) but not so tight that I have to pound it in place. To finish up I then drive a small brad in the end of the plate (out feed side) and cut it off so about 1/4" or so remains. This replaces the little nub normally found on the Delta plate (just a safety thing).
Paul
Thanks for your posts. It sounds like there are many ways to skin a cat...Regards,
Buzzsaw
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
"It sounds like there are many ways to skin a cat..."
There are, but as long as you do a good job of sharpening your knife (A2 steel, of course) on your 8000-grit waterstone, the job goes pretty quickly.
-Steve
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