Hello-
I am trying to figure out my options for continuing my woodworking hobby throughout the winter. I have a seperate 2 1/2 car garge that serves as my workspace (1 car parked in it). The garage is not insulated but is in relatively good shape (new sideing not drafty etc.) I live in Northwest Indiana outside of chicago so it gets fairly cold in January and Febuary. I don’t need it to be in the 70’s in the garage just warm enough to work in… I have run 220 service out there so I would like to purchase an electric heater. Running a gas line from the house because of layout is not really an option.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Replies
The first thing I'd do is try to insulate the walls, and the main door. Otherwise, I suspect you'll be losing heat faster than you can generate it.
I use a heated oil radiator in my (insulated) garage to avoid a combustion source, but it is only enough to maintain a working temp once I heat the place up a bit with an electric radiant heater. Once I heat the place up a bit, I remove the radiant heater, so it doesn't accumulate saw dust on the element.
I'm looking forward to hearing others' solutions to the problem, though.
A couple of years ago my wife got me two radiant quartz heaters from Lee Valley (about 1500 watts each). They hang from the ceiling so they're out of the way and surprisingly heat the work area very well. The air is warmed a little but the radiant heat makes you fell warmer than the air. I mounted one over the work bench and the other over my table saw. They also seem to be safer when dealing with flammable finishing materials. (No, I don't use any spray equipment.) The heaters were very reasonably priced, about US $100 each.
I also have a rubber floor pad in that area which helps with the cold. The temperature in the area is warm enough for most glues.
It doesn't look like Lee Valley carries them anymore and google searches turn up more expensive alternatives. The brand name that I have is Marvin. I googled 'quartz radiant' and came up with several possibilities.
As a climate comparison, it's 11am now and the air temp outside is about 15 F. I don't mind going in the shop now if the heaters get a 10 minute 'head start' on me.
Good luck!
Unfortunately concrete slabs get cold and STAY cold. Be prepared to wear insulated boots.
Well-
I must admit I am a bit disappointed. Anyone else have any advise or do I have to have no hope to continue woodworking through the winter...
Ralph
>a bit disappointedI see. You want a more sophisticated, high class, innovative, creative solution showing imagination. Some thing out of the ordinary !Is that what I hear you saying ? Try this.http://www.danceadts.com/Rockettes%20Micro%20Site/Rockette_12_30/rockette_costumes.htmOf coarse to get them to show up on moments notice may cost a little more but I am sure what ever it costs it will be worth it.: )
forgive me ladies. I just had to
roc
For foot comfort, try closed-toe Birkenstock cork-soled shoes, or insulated hunting boots. Or, do the rubber floor tile thing. Or, both.
>Birkenstock cork-soled shoesCareful now you are going to get us thrown out of this chat room ! : )I too wear Birks. Just a habit. When ever I work on concrete the Birks totally save my legs and back. Can work twelve hours on concrete no problem !I never considered the insulating properties of the cork. I just like them because of the no tie aspect. I change shoes when I go through my door into the house.White carpets !On the coldest days I go for the insulated boots. I am limited to how much I can modify my present shop since I am renting.>warm enough for most glues.I admit I have joined WillGeorge's camp and must glue up in the house. Polyurethane glue is good for the carpet ! Little known fact. : )
"Careful now you are going to get us thrown out of this chat room ! : )"I'm hoping that Ralph is working with the garage door closed, so his neighbors won't know. That's what I do, at least. I can't imagine what they'd do to me here in New Mexico if I were caught wearing Birkies! ;-)
The shameful deed . . . glue upOh yes. For the Gorilla Glue doubters note the out of control foaming and oozing !just kidding.
Edited 12/28/2008 4:04 pm by roc
My shop is the third bay of a three car garage. It is well insulated, the walls and the overhead doors. I had a 220 line installed just for the electric heater. It is about 5500 btu's. Got it online at Graingers. I run it in the morning for an hour or so and my shop is warm enough to work in with a flannel lined shirt. If it runs for several hours its warm enough for shirt sleeves. There are no dividers in the garage so it is essentially heating the entire 3 bays but it is located right next to the work bench. works great for me. I live in Ogden Utah and it does get cold in the winter.
Frank
Edited 12/28/2008 11:40 pm ET by fgnoel
I recieved some advice form my father in law who warms a barn/shop down in southern Indiana--- he said to run some thick plastic as a temperary "wall" to seperage my work area from the rest of the garage from the ceiling (8 feet tall) to cut down on the area I was heating and to get a heater with as large a throw that I could find... seeing how I can minimize the space i need to stay warm in because I have an overhead loft that makes the ceiling 8 feet high in the area above my workbench I think this might work for me... (I will basically be cutting my 2 1/2 car garage into a 1 car garage) for the winter as far as the area I am working in/heating for the time I am in there.
I'm working on building a shop and it has no heat yet. One of my neighbors suggested this kerosene heater as a temporary measure:http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/003433.phpI haven't yet bought one but it sounds both effective and kinda cool...Ted
Be sure you allow for the massive amounts of water vapor that kerosene heater puts out, not to mention the carbon monoxide.
And yet another possibility for ye:
View Image
It's the box thang (aka Trailer Furnace) in the left background. Because this one is a downdraft type, I made a U shaped box outa some 2x10's and lined them with sheet metal and set the furnace on top. Picked it up second had at a plumbing & heating shop for $100.
Burns #2 heating oil or kerosene and no worries about carbon monoxide. Enclosed flame, simple ducting outside, add a thermostat and for less than $200 I'm toasty warm.
Now insulate the be hesuse outa that garage,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I tried a kerosene heater and could not get past the smell..gave me a headache
I live in north central Indiana and so it's pretty much the same conditions as Gomez's. I have an unattached 2 1/2 car garage that houses my wood shop. The first year I simply worked with space heaters as close to me and dressed as warmly as possible...didn't spend much quality time out there. The following summer I insulated the walls and got an electric heater ...the temp never got much above 50 and if it was in the twenties or lower 40 degrees was as warm as it got..my electric bill was 120 to 150 dollars a month higher and I noticed the snow was melting pretty fast off the roof....the next year I had spray foam insulation put into the ceiling and gables...it's always 60 degrees in there (in the cold months) and now it costs 40-60 bucks a month to heat it in the winter....can't see trying to heat your space without insulation unless you're only in there a couple hours a week.
Neil
Thanks guys for all the great input. I was wondering if it is necessary to have a CO detector if I am burning propane??? or is that only with kerosene?Ralph
RG,
I'd have a CO detector anywhere I was burning fuel - kero, ng, propane, etc. It's only a couple bucks for some piece of mind. I happen to know that Meijer is going to have some on sale in the next month or so. Keep your eye open and you should be able to get one for 10-15 bucks.
Aaron
Any hydrocarbon will produce CO if the oxygen is limited. That includes gasoline, kerosene, all the anes and enes, wood, coal, plastics, etc. Now if you are burning pure hydrogen, your only byproduct will be water, but it will use up the oxygen. Unless you know you have a very effective vent system, it is good to have a working CO meter. In our town it is against the law to have a ventless heater in a living space.
Edited 1/10/2009 1:11 am ET by Tinkerer3
I've used a torpedo (propane) heater in the past. It was not pleasant, extremely noisy, the buffer space needed for safety irritating, and the hovering concern about a fire is disoncerting to say the least. Beyond that is the fact that they raise the humidity in the shop. If you have kiln-dried lumber stacked, it's a concern.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
It might be cool but the Carbon monoxide could be your end. Ventalation and a large amount makeup air would be advisable.
Concrete slabs are not always cold, especially if you have radiant heat in the floor. I have heard that you can keep the place at a cooler temp and still feel warm with this heat but I still like to keep the shop at 70º. The house stays at 74° except in the summer I cool it down to 80°.
Hallo Everyone.
I am Rose Marie.
No Doubt Its a great place for geting information about Home Heating System.
Actually I am here to get knowledge about How can I Buy my best home heating system?
Since you said you don't need to be able to toast marshmallows with the heater here is what I use. I have a smallish two car garage with one car not much insulation but earth burmed and a duplex.
http://www.heater-store.com/electric-radiant-heaters-comfortemp-oil-filled-radiator-heater-delonghi-ew7707cm_1503_prd1.htm
I have two similar to this one and you may need three. I dig them out of the crawl space every winter but only actually run them a few times. I use hand tools mostly so that and the lights help warm the shop. I need them when shop drops into the thirties. When I go out there and it is in the forties I don't need them unless doing a sit down chore. When it is in the thirties in my shop it is zero or bellow out side.
The down side is slow to bring up the shop temp. The plus is they are simple and are not much of a fire hazard in a dusty shop. My heating and cooling guy said they are a good alternative to a built in system for what I do so hope it helps you.
roc
Edited 12/27/2008 8:10 pm by roc
I heat my 22x20x8 wood floored, insulated shop with 2-1500 watt convections heaters (fans in um) and one Marvin radiant like described above. No problem keeping it where I want it if it's above 20*. Below that I have a back up propane convection heater connected to the main house tank.
If you have a ceiling, you might be able to be comfortable with 10-15,000 watts of electric heat. If you have a concrete floor and don't keep the temp up all the time, the concrete mass will take forever to warm up. If you do not have a ceiling, drive over to Lake Michigan and start throwing money in. You'll be money ahead.
The radiant heaters are probably the best bet. They will warm objects and the objects will radiate heat. If you are close to the heater or these objects you will feel warm (except for your feet). Home Depot has some that are reasonably priced; the Marvins are no longer made.
Good Luck and Happy New Year
Please Pray For Our Troops
Semper Fi!
Bob Ross
WalnutAcreWoodworking.com
RG, Ralph's recommendation to do some insulating first is spot-on. It must be really cold up your way. I'm in a drafty former-garage that has one wall of cinder-block type, the rest wood. I insulated everything I could and put down the rubber floor that consists of squares that fit together like puzzle pieces. That would help in your situation, even if you only do your side of the floor.
There are some very good electric heaters out there, and threads here at Knots reviewing them (search for "Hot Dawg" and you'll find the threads). If your 220V circuits are high enough amperage, you can run 5K Watt electric heaters. Or the suggestion of radiant heat is an excellent one (I'm too much of a whimp, and heat with a pellet stove to about 60 degrees).
insulate first, absolutely, if the stud walls are open its easy, just stuff batts in, ceiling the same, if the roof structure just has a few collar ties across the width of the garage, lay some cheap 4x8 material on top and insulation above that and plan on installing a proper ceiling in the spring. you insulate between the roof rafters as a temporary measure
a wood floor system will make a huge difference, my flooring in my shop is a cheap laminate over the foam pad
then think of heating, i use a cheapie 4500 watt construction heater 240 volt, it'll heat my garage on the our coldest days to 65 in an hour, our coldest days are zero F
seal up the unused garage doors and insulate them if you can
you've got to insulate it, otherwise you'll never heat it
>have a ceiling
Yep that is a good point. I am in a garage under the house and the ceiling is finished and probably insulated. Insulation is a big factor.
I use a propane heater from Grainger that adjusts from 100-200,000 btu. Always use it on the low setting with an 18" fan about 6-8' away from it blowing over the top of the heater to move the heated air around my shop. I crack my window about an inch and one end of my overhead door about the same. Works great and no fumes like kerosene. Can get heaters like mine for around $100-$125. Easily keeps my 24' x 24' garage at 55-60 degrees. Once it warms up, I kill the heater and close the window and overhead door. I live in Columbus, Ohio so it usually only gets down to around 20-30 degrees.
Eddie
I would check out this unit http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx?ref=froogle. Then I would insulate the sidewalls if you are going to use it a lot. If the ceiling is accessible I would do something there if it is worth the money.
I use a 70,000 BTU propane forced air heater (topedo type). You can get smaller ones too. I have used one for 10-12 years. Make sure that you have some ventilation, my 16' garage door leaks air especially with the air filtration system on. The heater hooks up to a 20 lb propane bottle same as your gas grill. It only presents a problem when finishing and you cant use it. Otherwise it is just noisy when running, but my IPOD and headphones take care of that.
RG,
I live outside of Edmonton, Alberta. we just came through a nice spell of -25C weather - not a lot of wind fortunately. I can expect sub zero weather from end of October to end of March.
My shop is 15 X 26 X 10. The walls are 2 X 6 with R20 fiberglass. The ceiling is R40.
I have for heat a 4800 watt contractors heater.I keep the room at minimum and turn up the heat slightly when working. It doesn't take much. My floor is bare concrete which sucks a lot of heat and is not good for the legs. That is going to change.
What people are saying about insulating is correct. No matter what the cost, it is once and will reward you with lower heating costs and an overall more comfortable work area. Even in the summer my shop is nice and cool.
Don
Don,
I'd really watch that construction heater. I was doing the same thing, and it could have ended in disaster. The heater failed catastrophically, and had my shop not be cleaned very recently I probably would have had a disaster. I still have the burn marks on the cabinet.
Those construction heaters are not intended for continuous work, and should not be used that way.
**
All,
I installed a unit heater in the garage after that, and I've never looked back. I moved last year, and did the same thing in the new shop. Sure it costs a bit, but it's an investment in my house, my hobby, and my families safety. It's a no brainer.
Buster
Appreciate the concern Buster. I have had this thing running for 4 years now - temporary you know... without any problems. My ideal is to install a Calcana radiant tube unit but just have not got that far.I keep it pretty much out by itself on the concrete floor on the lowest setting.
What problem did you encounter?Don
My experience has left me very sour on these things. I look at them as fires waiting to happen. In my case my shop is attached to the house, so I could have lost everything. Woodworkers (myself included) are an odd bunch, we don't blink at spending $2000 on a table saw or $300 on a hand plane or building a workbench out of $1000 worth of maple! But invest in heating/cooling/electrical/dust collection, things that make us more comfortable and safer... This isn't a cut at you, we all do it. In the end we do have finite budgets, I'm fortunate that the first heater was installed prior to kids (and I have a very supportive wife). In the new shop I've spent 6 months getting things to a good point. The shop is now operational and I believe I've made the systems as safe as I can get them.I considered the Calcana heater as well. Nice looking, but a little more expensive than the nit heater I bought. Two things concerned me, the space it would take up on the ceiling and the clearance it required below. Ultimately what killed it was that you need an inlet and outlet that usually are on opposite sides of the garage. In mine, that would mean one near the front door (front attached garage). I suspect that you could pipe back to the other side, but thats more space taken up on the ceiling.I wasn't in the shop when the heater went. What appears to have happened is that the heating coil 'overloaded' and essentially blew up, the fan continued to fun as well. So I had a 'spray' of molten metal across the cabinet it was sitting on. Some went over the side and landed on a plastic tool box. The shop was spotless as I was expecting a visit. My friend a fire fighter just shakes his head at how 'stupid and lucky' I was (His words not mine).I've attached three photos, the first shows the burn marks on the top of the cabinet, the second shows the top of the tool box (all the little round circles are embedded metal), and finally the new 60,000 btu heater $2600 installed (and that was at the building peak).Take care and stay safe. I hope you're getting some of this warm weather that we have today.Buster
the exahaust from the car should warm it up nicely,just kidding.home depot has some kerosen and propane heaters that would warm that shop up in no time and its cheaper than elec.
keith
I have a rinnai propane heater in my garage/shop that vents through the wall. I assume you can get propane. I think the input is 25K btu or thereabouts. It is safe, has athermostat and fan and takes the chill off pretty quickly, even when it is 0 F outside. I usually set it to 50 or 55. I absolutely agree that you need to insulate no matter what you heat with.
Well-Over the last week I have bought a 75,000-125,000 btu propane heater with a very strong fan. It runs off a 40lb. propane tank which took an initial investment of about 375 dollars between the heater and the tank and filling it but I ran it today for about 25 minutes to test it in my 2 1/2 car garage and it was warm enough to work with a flannel and I probably could have worked in my t-shirt. I installed thicker weather striping around my doors and windows and that helped also. In the spring I am going to start framing out a ceiling and connect that with the partial loft that is overhead to lower the space above me to 8 feet. I will then insulate but I am just glad that I can do anything at all now that I have some way of keeping myself warm out there. I did have a question that I wanted to ask anyone who might know-- I was considering covering up my roof vents with insulation until the spring to keep the heat from flowing out the roof but I don't know if this will have an adverse effect or not?
All I can say is that I am really happy to be able to continue my favorite hobby (aside from music). Thanks for all the great advice.Ralph
Don't forget the CO detector or the next music you play may be on a harp:-)
Ditto the CO detector !!!!!!!! I USED to use the portable Kerosene heaters, never again! Got pounding headaches from those beasts. With my all electric rate it is less costly to run my three 8' elec. base board heaters. No open flames, No CO, No smell, But No A/C.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Ralph,
Save your money on the carbon monoxide detector. Don't buy one. I can tell you right now that running a construction propane heater inside an enclosed area like this WILL produce carbon monoxide in sufficient quantities to cause a carbon monoxide detector to go off. So, why bother testing?
This is an unsafe situation. If you continue to use the heater this way, make sure you have a life insurance policy and that it is paid up.
ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
Several years ago, one of my tenants got a CO detector for Christmas. I got a call in early January when the kids came back from the holiday vacation. The detector had gone off. Took me some convensing that we had no gas into the building. The CO was either not calibrated correctly, she and her friends were smoking too much or it was leaking in from the street. Whew! I do think construction heaters have their place and that is in construction. If you have some missing windows, doors and places where vast quantities where air can come in (and CO and heat go out,) they are a source of comfort.
Edited 1/10/2009 8:45 pm ET by Tinkerer3
Tinkerer,
I agree that construction heaters have their places. A semi-permanent heating situation in a woodworking shop, I would argue, is not one of them.
I worked as a home inspector for nine years, and went to several CO seminars as part of my training. Those pointed out the many dangers - and many potential sources - of CO in a home.
One of those sources, commonly overlooked, is automobile exhaust captured inside an attached garage. You open your garage door, start your car, pull out, and then lower the overhead door. All the exhaust and CO that came from the car when it first started up (and it is a considerable amount) is now enclosed inside the garage. If there are air-infiltration pathways between the garage and house, that's how the CO gets inside.
A few years ago I did a consultation on a brand new, very high-end home that had a CO problem in the kitchen. That's where the homeowner had hung a CO detector, and it kept giving readings of 15-18 PPM. The builder was quite incensed at the thought that anything in his new masterpiece could be amiss, so he blamed the detector as being defective and prone to giving false readings.
I told the homeowners to park their cars outside the garage for a couple of days, and then to turn the CO detector back on. And that caused the display to zero out.
One final note; CO can kill in high concentrations. But those instances are, thankfully, pretty rare. What is less commonly understood is that exposure to lower levels of the gas can cause illness and flu-like symptoms. It makes healthy people feel sick, and sick people feel even sicker. So, all in all, it's best not to breathe any CO if it can be helped. And my point is that there are a lot of options available to heat a shop that do not release CO into the indoor air. That's why I'm pretty leery of those devices that do.
Zolton If you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
..."One final note; CO can kill in high concentrations."Well, I'm just floored by this revelation.
Maybe funny to you, but there are people who do not know anything about CO - and some of those people get killed every year doing things that don't end up being very funny.
ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
Darwin comes to mind.
Well, I'd call that pretty harsh when there are innocents involved, like children...If you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
Oh cripes lighten up.
Zolton,
Not only would it take an incredible amount of time to heat the space but that 1,500 watt heater/hair dryer would be running full tilt all the time too. Seriously doubt it would work at all
TT - Please, we have no idea about the person who might be entertaining use of this product. Zolton and others are trying to help.
It might be corny to you but safety is NOT something to lighten up about. Most times I get a hoot and/or some good info. from your posts, but ye pushed me buttons this time.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 1/14/2009 8:58 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Edited 1/14/2009 8:59 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Just saw your post.
I live about 2-3 hours south of you. I've got a 20 x 30 ft shop. It is insulated but I use a Dayton Electric Heater,runs off 220. It has been very efficiant for me. I would recommend that you try to insulate what you can. The heater was rated at 500sq foot in an uninsulated space. Call them and talk to them.
Good Luck
Ron
Search on craigslist for your hometown and find a mobile home furnace with a downflow blower place it up against a wall on 4 cement blocks 2 on each side end to end. These can be found for about 300 bucks. I have a 15 gallon blue jug for my oil get it plumbed in and vented with a flue and thermostat and you will be warm and cozy. I heat a 25 X 25 garage with no problem. I like the ability to turn up the stat and 5 minutes later its warm.
Yup, I'm with you 44723.36 Bought mine for $100 and haven't looked back. I figured they must be good/safe as they heat mobile homes that people live in.
Put a 55 gallon drum down in the garage and plumbed it in with 3/8" copper. The oil delivery man checks it for me and tops it off when he's delivering.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Although I dont make much of it, Time is money I pay a few dollars for kerosene and heating oil but I dont have to haul wood for a woodburner. And these furnaces can be had readily and are zero clearance too. An added benefit its an air cleaner too as I shake the double filter out weekly. Mine has a switch that allows me to run just the blower in the summer as well. I can take some pictures if anyone else is interested
I've been investigating heating options for my shop too. My shop is an attached 22' x 11' garage in eastern Maryland. In the winter months, the garage averages between 35 and 40 degrees. I'm looking at a small ceramic heater to take the edge off- which for me would require warming the air to about 60 degrees. What I want is something that quickly but safely warms the air. The model I'm looking at is a whole room ceramic fan heater called the vornado: http://www.vornado.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ISC_Category=TVH+500It has a 1500W max setting and is designed for 16' x 16' rooms with 8' ceilings. However, it has received good reviews and given my modest needs, seems like a possible solution. Does anyone have experience using ceramic heaters to heat a garage shop?- Lyptus
Any 1500 watt electric heater will produce the same amount of heat for the number of kilowatts consumed. There's nothing special about "ceramic" elements, though they might hold the heat a little longer once the heater shuts off, if that's what the claim is. But you can get exactly the same amount of heat production from a much less expensive 1500 watt unit.
It is unlikely that a 1500 watt heater will raise the temperature of a space the size of the one you described adequately, especially if it has a concrete floor, to the 60 degrees you're seeking. It will do it if you keep it on for hours. But you said you wanted something to warm the air quickly, and for that you need more heat output than a 1500 watt unit can provide.
Plus, you might find that you don't care for a fan-assisted unit in a woodshop. It will blow the dust around.
ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
I am seriously looking at the Enerjoy Radiant heaters that paulsomlo referenced earlier in http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=44723.44Looks like a possible winner. Radiant heat is always a preferred heat source, especially in a wood shop.http://www.sshcinc.com/woodshopseries.htmDon
Here's what I used in my shop. As with all electric heat, it is fairly expensive to run, but pretty effective. I leave them set at 40 deg.F, then turn the thermostat up to 50 deg. when I want to work. They sit flat against the ceiling, don't take up shop space. I think I spent something like $275 each. I have two of the 1kw versions in a 200sf shop (ceiling insulated, three walls brick uninsulated). They sell cosmetic defects for shop usage. Dimensions are 2'x 8', 1 inch thick. When standing under them, it's like being out in the sun.
http://www.sshcinc.com/woodshopseries.htm
Edited 1/12/2009 3:35 am ET by paulsomlo
Edited 1/12/2009 3:39 am ET by paulsomlo
Edited 1/12/2009 3:40 am ET by paulsomlo
HAllo Everyone.
I am new here.
No doubt its a great place for learn more information about home heating system.
Actually I am here to get knowledge about How can I Buy my best home heating system?
I'm living in Montreal and I think we know a little bit about cold here...
My garage is attached to the house, the roof has basic insulation (about R20) and the wall foam insulation (R10). Nothing on the floor nor the door.
The shop is unheated most of the time and don't get much colder than -4 celsuis. It follows ground temperature a lot. I use to heat the shop 20min before I get in with a convectair heater positioned on the floor (40 amp if I recall). That's enough to warm the air so that I can wear a normal jacket, a hat and sometimes small gloves.
Your tools will be cold and that's rather unpleasant but not a real problem. The main issues are with glue up... I have to heat the shop for longer time and store the board in the house over the night before to warm them up. So far it's been working.
So no, you don't have to give up on your hobbie :)
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