Replies

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 20, 2008 10:06pm | #1

   I'd use the miter saw as well.  Make a few test cuts to make sure that your saw is accurately set up.  Cut two scraps with the saw set to 22.5 degrees and hold them together, checking the inside angle with a speed square.  Miters are tricky... 1/2 of a degree could mess you up.

   Chris @ flairwoodworks

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

2. 
   BruceS | Jan 21, 2008 01:40am | #2

   I use an Incra 1000 miter gauge.  To which I have an Incra 36" fence attached and use a stop block to insure that all segments are exactly the same length. 

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/20/2008 5:41 pm ET by BruceS

3. 
   forestgirl | Jan 21, 2008 07:40am | #3

   The trick with using a miter saw to do a very precise cut is being sure (a) your stock stays put and (b) your blade travels precisely.  If your stock moves the tiniest little bit while you're cutting it (and the saw blade encourages it to do so), the miter will be off and noticeable.  Some people use sandpaper for provide friction on an auxillary fence, there are other techniques.  If the stock is large enough, you can clamp it.

   As far as the blade travel goes, be sure you're not exerting weird forces -- sideways, whatever, and you have a quality, flat blade on there.

   All that being said, with the frames I've made, I've found it much easier to use a table saw for the smaller ones (shorter lengths).  I have the Incra 1000 mentioned in an earlier post, it does a good job.  A sled would be even more reliable, easier to use once it's made ( I dont' have the Incra extension). 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
4. 
   saschafer | Jan 21, 2008 08:41am | #4

   To make a cut that's beyond the range of the miter saw, you can make a wedge-shaped filler piece to go between the workpiece and the fence. For example, you need to set the miter saw to 67.5° to make your angled cuts, but miter saws don't normally go that far. If you cut a 22.5° wedge-shaped filler piece, then that will shift the required angle by 22.5°; 67.5° - 22.5° = 45°. So, with the wedge in place, you can set the miter saw to 45° to make your cut:

   View Image

   Obviously, you have to be more careful with your clamping when you do this. It would probably be safest to attach the wedge to a square of plywood; that way, you can clamp the workpiece straight down onto the plywood platform.

   -Steve

    

   
1. 
   FrankDrackman | Jan 21, 2008 11:00pm | #5

   If someone doesn't have the ability to make the 22.5 degree cut, how are they going to make the 22.5 degree wedge? <!----><!----><!---->

   If they have the ability to make the 22.5 degree wedge, why don't they use the same technique to make the 22.5 degree miter?<!----><!---->

    

1. 
   saschafer | Jan 21, 2008 11:28pm | #6

   The 22.5° wedge doesn't have to be finish quality, and you have lots of wiggle room, so if your first attempt is off, you can just trim it. You could cut the piece out on a bandsaw, then plane or sand until it's just right. If you use the plywood platform I mentioned, you don't even have to make a 22.5° cut at all; just attach a 1x2 to the plywood in the right position.

   The reason for using a miter saw for the final cut is that it's a way to get a very clean, accurate cut on a relatively small piece that might otherwise be hard to handle.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   joinerswork | Jan 22, 2008 02:32am | #7

   Frank,

   Well, someone could draw a 22.5* angle onto a piece of plywood (by halving angles with compass), and screw and/or glue a block to that line.  Use that to jig a mitersaw cut or as a shooting block for hand planing the end onto the flagcase end.

   Just one example of using one technique to achieve accuracy in another. Amazing what you can do once you get off your pair o' dimes.

   Ray

1. 
   cms0553 | Jan 22, 2008 03:24am | #8

   Thanks to all for your help and ideas. I think I'll screw the wedge to a piece of scrap plywood and cut it on the miter saw

5. 
   JamesS | Jan 22, 2008 04:08am | #9

   I used my Tenoning jig on the TS w/ the TS blade at 22.5 deg. from vertical & standing the part vertical to cut it.

   James

1. 
   cms0553 | Jan 24, 2008 02:27am | #10

   if i had a tenoning jig thats the way i would go

   thanks

1. 
   james99 | Jan 24, 2008 10:50am | #11

   I think I would consider something like saschafer showed, but use 67.5 degree wedges on the left and right side of the blade, with the angle between the wedges 45d egrees. The blade would be perpendicular to the to the fence (?) of the miter saw. One board goes up against the left wedge, the other board goes up against the right wedge. With this setup, if the blade is off a little bit, or the angles are off a little, the cut wood still forms a 45 degree angle as long as the angle between the wedges is 45 degrees.

2. 
   JamesS | Jan 30, 2008 08:25am | #12

   cmc0553:   You can easily make, plywood box which slides over your fence & add a stop to hold the woodpiece against. I don't have the shopbuilt, but it looks ine to me. I use a Delta tenoning jig.

   James

1. 
   cms0553 | Jan 31, 2008 02:45am | #13

   thanks

6. 
   Harley55 | Jan 31, 2008 04:36am | #14

   Why not try something different, say three at 90 degrees and two at 45 degrees.  While your at it, dove tail the 90 degree cuts. 

   I am very proud of this and suspect that there is not another like it.  I wanted something specila for my father's flag.  Yes, the spent shells were the ones fired by the Color Guard.  My Dad had been one of their own for years, so they didn't think twice when I asked them for the shells.  Hope you enjoy it and I encourage you to use your imagination and do something different for a very special flag.  

   For some reason the pictures are super oversized.  I do not know how to fix or what I did wrong.  Would appreciate any help in this arena.  Also how do you copy a picture directly into the message, I tried, but was unable to.  Thanks

    

   PS Use your scroll bar to see the case details.

    

    

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/30/2008 8:44 pm ET by Harley55

   
1. 
   Railyn | Jan 31, 2008 07:06am | #15

   First off, Harley, the pictures come out fine on my computer.Second, what a great display case. It is clean and the dovetails are a great idea. I also like the tray with the shells and dog tag.Your dad would be proud of this case.Thanks for sharing.RayIf you don't have time to do it right the first time, when do you have time to do it over?