Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 03, 2006 12:39am | #1

   Sanding the project is always the last step with varnish.  Its the rubbing out process that is pretty much necessary for good work, since otherwise you undoubtedly have dust nibs and the like that you would like to get rid off.  This involves sanding with 400 and higher grits and then rubbing with either lubricated steel wool (for a satin finish), or with a polishing compound such as rottenstone or the modern equivalents.  

   What exactly do you mean by the spots you got with a brush.  I am having trouble visualizing.  Also, it might help to say what kind of varnish you used and how you applied it.   

    

1. 
   tcbaldmtn | Mar 03, 2006 04:01am | #2

   When I drug the brush the brush didn't deposit varnish in a couple of places.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 03, 2006 07:41am | #3

   I think you are in for another coat.  At least on the entire surface where there is a varnish holiday.  How to avoid gaps?  First, it really helps, both for this reason and for adhesion, for the prior coat to be evenly scuff sanded (I use 320 grit usually).  The other very important thing is to have good light--including light that comes in at a low angle.  You can't have too much light while applying finish.  That helps see problems while they are still correctable.   

   All varnish (despite what it says on the can) needs to be thinned--typically with about 10% thinner to help it flow out.  Don't know if that was a contributing factor but it could be.  The makers are forced into lying on the label by VOC regulations that limit the amount of Volatile Organic Compounds.  They remove some of the thinner.  But if the instructions told the user to add the thinner back the manufacturer wouldn't get credit for meeting the requirements. 

   Edited 3/2/2006 11:45 pm ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   tcbaldmtn | Mar 03, 2006 01:57pm | #4

   Thanks.  I'm working in the basement and lighting is an issue.  I called my local Woodcraft and they said I need to thin out the lacquer also.  I always sand between coats and also use a grey 3m pad just to make sure I scuff up everything.

   I'm glad that this is a small project.  That's the reason for using lacquer for the first time on it, for easy repairs.  Better to learn on a small project than a large one.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 03, 2006 05:21pm | #5

   Lacquer is a different story than varnish.  Lacquer will always redissolve in lacquer thinner and each coats melds into the lower coats.  It, like shellac, dries by evaporation, not through a chemical reaction.  As a consequence, you should be able to repair your holidays without needing a new coat.  You can use a small brush and fill in the spots with missing lacquer.  It will then be able to be sanded smooth and flush and the rest can be rubbed out as usual.  Yes, it too is likely to need to be thinned--with lacquer thinner not mineral spirits. 

   Varnish has a chemical reaction as part of its cure.  Consequently, it cannot be redissolved in the same solvents that thin it while it is liquid.  It also doesn't burn it between coats, so the attempt to repair by filling in the gaps won't work because you would end up with hazy shadow or witness lines where the two coats met. 

   I would invest in some stand lamps, or clamp on lamps so you can really shed light on the problem.  A couple of 100 watt incandesant bulbs will make a dramatic improvement. 

    

    

2. 
   mike4244 | Mar 04, 2006 02:40am | #6

   Varnish the holidays, when completely dry,sand the entire surface with 320 paper.

   Mix equal amount of varnish with thinner,now you have a wiping varnish. Brush or wipe it on, wipe off excess. You need about 3 coats of wiping varnish to equal a full strength single coat.With the wiping varnish you can put all three coats on in a single day,wait one hour between coats.If  their are dust nibs then rub them out between coats with steel wool or synthetic steel wool (scocth brite pads).The wiping varnish dries quickly because of the amount of solvents.

   mike