Replies

1. 
   nboucher | Aug 07, 2008 06:12pm | #1

   Peter will have a much more knowledgeable answer than I can muster, but I am finishing a hard maple vanity right now using water-based dyes and am really liking how it looks.

   My goal was to add some interest to the maple and pop the figure without losing the light character—the mapleness—of the wood. I used the new General Finishes water-based dyes, and after working a bunch of test pieces, settled on a formula of three parts light brown to one part amber, diluted with five or six parts water. Obviously, it's important to try different combinations to see what appeals to your own taste.

   I let the dye dry for a few hours then sanded it back pretty vigorously using 220 grit paper so that the grain would show but the figure was still highlighted. After wiping it off with a tack cloth, I put on a generous coat of linseed oil. After letting this dry for a couple of days, I built up the finish using Pratt & Lambert 38 clear varnish. I diluted it with half mineral spirits to create a wiping varnish and am now building up the coats. I'm using varnish because this is a bathroom vanity and so I wanted the extra protection, but on some of my test pieces I used shellac and it's great, too. I chose Pratt & Lambert because it seems to be the least yellow of the varnishes.

   The result is almost a three-dimensional look, and a lot of interest is created by the irregular way the maple absorbed the dye. The biggest challenge is that maple can get splotchy, which is one reason I diluted the dye so much and sanded it back so vigorously.

   I look forward to hearing Peter's view.

   Norman

   
   

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   Edited 8/7/2008 11:12 am ET by nboucher

2. 
   peter28 | Aug 11, 2008 03:51am | #2

   Brian,

   I have a few that I like. Working with water dyes is a great way to bring out the color in maple.

   A very simple one ;

   After preparing your wood apply a deep colored dye. This can be a deep brown amber, dark walnut, black etc.

   When it dries sand it back with 220 paper. This can be in as little as fifteen minutes if you use a heat gun or hair dryer to help it along.

   Now hit it with a second dye that is lighter and brighter in color. A few choices could be medium yellow, golden amber, russet amber to name a couple.

   The darker dye you put on first has colored the softer parts and is still there. When you re-color with the second dye, you will have a dramatic and deep look.

   If you like using an oil, do it after this step (when it's dry)

   Another two step process I use for a demo in color class;

   Dye the wood with a violet dye that is half strength. As it is starting to dry, but not completely dry, I'll dye it again with a golden amber or medium yellow that is full strength. You get a nice golden brown with deep brown stripes.

   This is simple color theory at work. Yellow is the complimentary color to violet. That means they are opposite each other on the color wheel and will offset each other to create a nice brown.

   You can see this for yourself if you have any dyes that are labeled golden or amber. Put some water in a glass, and add a pinch of your dye on the surface. You will see three colors; most likely an orange a bright yellow and a blue or violet.

   Check out W. D. Lockwood for dyes. Many of the companies use theirs and just re- label them.

   Just remember you can use any dye you'd like regardless of the name; golden brown walnut, old yellow brown mahogany etc. The names are just suggestions. Also, be sure and use plenty of dye. I often see someone new at it using it very sparingly.

   Be sure to keep track of what you are doing when making samples. You are making samples right? This way you'll come up with a tried and true method that is yours.

   Have fun.

   Peter