Replies

1. 
   Esteban | Aug 18, 2007 04:01am | #1

   I did something similar with a Watco finish oil, then finished it with Minwax quick dry satin finish. Those oil finishes take a lot longer to really dry. So wait about two weeks before using the poly.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 18, 2007 06:39am | #2

   Spar varnish isn't your best choice of varnish.  You will get better durability from a good interior varnish such as Behlen Rockhard, McCloskey Heirloom, or Pratt & Lambert 38.  The problem with spar is that it is too soft.  The principle advantage of spar varnish for its exterior use is flexibility to handle wide temperature and moisture ranges and moving parts (boats and masts (spars) flex quite a bit.) Marine spar also resists UV light.  But it isn't more water resistant or generally tougher. 

   Walnut oil is just barely a drying oil and could take a very long time to cure.  It's likely that the deep red is more from light and air as well as the natural tendancy of the mahogany to darken than it is from special properties of the walnut oil.  Tung oil might be a better choice, even though it takes a lot longer than boiled linseed oil to cure, because it doesn't yellow as much over time as the linseed oil.  Give it a couple of weeks to cure though before shutting off the air with the varnish. 

1. 
   Harmonica | Aug 18, 2007 08:03pm | #3

   Steve,Thanks for the advice. I am going to try the tung oil on a small piece of the wood before I do the whole chest.Tim

3. 
   stantheman | Aug 19, 2007 02:10am | #4

   Harmonica THat is a nice color. 

   I've used walnut oil on cutting boards, and would not use it for a finish on anything else, because  as was said, it takes a very long time to cure and provides no other advantage over boiled linseed oil or tung oil.    But I wouldn't use any oil or poly on the inside of your chest as it will smell for a very long time.  I would use oil on the outside if you must pop the grain, but only shellac or lacquer on the inside.  Or even better, shellac or lacquer all over. 

    

    

4. 
   myoung | Aug 19, 2007 10:24pm | #5

   I've recently bought some walnut oil to experiment with french polishing. I noticed the can said 'Roasted'.  Are you folks using raw or roasted walnut oil?

   Malcolm

   http://www.shellacshack.com

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 19, 2007 10:41pm | #6

   >> I've recently bought some walnut oil to experiment with french polishing. I noticed the can said 'Roasted'.As Steve has said, walnut oil is not a finish. It dries very slowly and can turn rancid over long periods. There is no reason to use it for cutting board treatments.Also, it will not work for "french polishing". French polishing is an application technique used with shellac. It must use a very fast drying material to work.Save the walnut oil for your salad.Howie.........

1. 
   myoung | Aug 19, 2007 11:10pm | #7

   Howie,

   I am going to use the walnut oil as a lubricant.

   M.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 20, 2007 02:15am | #8

   I suppose you could use walnut oil, but the oil doesn't participate in the final finish (it is removed at the end) so there isn't any reason to go exotic--ordinary mineral oil works just fine and is lots cheaper. 

   Edited 8/19/2007 7:16 pm ET by SteveSchoene

2. 
   WoodShopGuy | Sep 16, 2007 04:56am | #11

   Howie!Having left that other site for reasons I won't go into, it is soooooo good to see you here.Smilin Bob.

2. 
   Harmonica | Aug 21, 2007 12:44am | #9

   Malcolm,I used walnut oil because I read that it was not supposed to go rancid. We have been coating our island countertop with it for about a year and so far so good. I used the oil available from Woodcraft Supply. I am not sure it is 'roasted'. However, it sure smells good when we put it on.Tim

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 21, 2007 04:54am | #10

   At least the Woodcraft Walnut Oil doesn't have added vitamin E.