Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Jun 09, 2008 04:55am | #1

   Safecoat AcryLacq (http://www.environmentalhomecenter.com/shop.mv?CatCode=PRODUCT&ProdCode=AFM_ACRYLACQ) is about as green as it gets. Apart from a couple of small test pieces, I have no experience with it, but I haven't experienced any problems so far.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   OldGreen | Jun 09, 2008 11:12pm | #2

   I recently built a couple of kitchens in fir and finished them with the same "Green" finish I use on most cabinetry. I spray one or two coats of Zinnser Seal Coat (or any wax free shellac) lightly sand with 320 and follow with three coats of General Finishes pre-cat water born top coat.

   It's easy, durable and looks great. On one of the kitchens I added a little "Vintage Maple" dye by Trans-Tint to the shellac. It gave the fir a nice warm aged glow.

   Hope this helps,

   Matt

   http://www.oldgreenwoodworking.com

3. 
   Al from Unionville | Jun 10, 2008 01:29am | #3

   I have been happy with both the ChemCraft WB lacquer finish and products from Target. The Target line includes a WB shellac that I used recently with a top coat of Target's WB lacquer. For clear finishes I currrently have a preference for the Target products versus those from ChemCraft. The ChemCraft product seemed to always require thinning to get to the 57(Z#2) viscosity I was after, even though the spec sheet said to spray as received.

4. 
   cwalvoord | Jun 10, 2008 09:28pm | #4

   I will second Matt's recommendation of shellac with a General Finishes water based top coat. I finished six cherry doors for our basement with this combination two years ago and the finish has been great. I brushed on a mix of amber and garnet de-waxed shellac I got from Homestead Finishing to give the color a little head start and then sprayed three coats of GF PolyAcrylic. The color started out nice and has gotten much better with time, as one would expect with cherry. Two of the doors are in the bathroom and we have not had any problems with warping, etc.

   I have also heard very good things about Ultima Spray Lacquer which is also water based. I will probably give it a try the next chance I get.
   Chris

1. 
   pezeshki | Jun 11, 2008 03:26am | #5

   Hi All,I'm currently in the middle of finishing an elm dining room table with the General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane. Here are my impressions.1. Love the clean-up. The recommendation is to apply with a $.25 foam brush. It works great, and you toss the brush.
   2. The off-gassing is truly minimal.
   3. First coat, I sanded any glue patches while I applied. It worked great, though it initially was worrisome. For some reason, there are no visible glue spots after the first coat, and if you can get the first coat right, it is sealed and there are no surprises.
   4. I knocked down the grain, which is indeed raised (no surprises, as it is a water-based finish) with 400 grit emery paper. This left an extremely nice sealed finish, but no depth.
   5. Coat 2 took a LOT less finish than coat 1. I have yet to sand Coat 2, but I'm thinking it will be just fine.
   6. It looks like 3 coats on the legs, 6-7 coats on the top (which I've yet to start). Easy to level during application.I'll report back as the situation evolves. So far, my experience has been extremely positive.Best,Chuck

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 11, 2008 06:50am | #6

   There is no reason to wait to discover glue spots until you apply finish.  Just wipe down the surface with naptha.  Any glue spots will be instantly revealed. 

1. 
   pezeshki | Jun 11, 2008 04:59pm | #7

   Absolutely true!It's that "I thought I got them all" laziness that gets me every time!

5. 
   Scott_y | Jun 12, 2008 06:06am | #8

   Pure Tung oil.

    

   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil

    

   Scotty

    

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 12, 2008 04:20pm | #9

   That Wikipedia article needs some serious revision as it is misleading in several ways. 

   For one thing it talks about coats and films of tung oil.  Pure tung oil should NOT be allowed to build any sort of film on the surface.  That film would be quite soft--almost gummy.  Thinning the oil makes little difference--the solvent evaporates well before any oil cures, and that oil still needs plenty of time to cure between coats.  All excess should be thoroughly wiped from the surface--a point not mentioned. 

   It also doesn't mention that pure tung oil is very slow drying.  You must leave several days between applications--work too fast and it can develop a "frosty" appearance that can only be removed by stripping. 

   And, in the end a pure tung oil finish has very few protective properties. 

   Even though the article makes mention of "tung oil finishes" as not possibly not containing tung oil, it doesn't mention the fact that some of them are varnishes.  Varnishes can be allowed to build films--it seems to me that the author has, at times, confused the properties of the varnish type tung oil finish with the pure finish. 

   The polymerized tung can also be allowed to build films, but to use it on surfaces as large as doors could be a nightmare as it wants to dry quite quickly. 

    

    

    

1. 
   Scott_y | Jun 12, 2008 06:34pm | #10

   Finished with pure Tung Oil. Three applications. Not gummy or sticky. Protected this bench outside through rain and sun at my house South of Houston.

    

   I'll try again to upload the pic.

   Edited 6/12/2008 11:35 am ET by Scott_y

1. 
   Scott_y | Jun 12, 2008 06:41pm | #11

   O.K. I guess the original was too big. This one doesn't have the detail to show the quality of the finish, but you will get an idea. I also included a pic of a meditation bench I finished recently. It also has a Pure Tung Oil finish.

   I have only used this finish on hardwoods. I'm not certain how it would do on Fir. It does tend to soak in very well, so I'd guess on softer woods it would take several coats to get a film finish unless you used some kind of sealer first - but again, I haven't tried that, so don't take it as more than random speculation from me.

   Edited 6/12/2008 11:59 am ET by Scott_y

   Edited 6/12/2008 12:03 pm ET by Scott_y

   
1. 
   Scott_y | Jun 12, 2008 06:55pm | #12

   BTW - the original poster was asking about Environmentally friendly bonafides. Pure Tung Oil certainly qualifies and that was why I posted the link to the wiki article, not as a guide to application or use.

   I have found Pure Tung oil to be one of the easiest finishes I've ever used. Yes, you do have to wipe off the excess, no big deal. I have used it to build a nice finish on some pieces and left others "natural" by using only two thin coats.  It is a myth that you can't build a finish with it. It works just fine. As for durability - the project was internal doors. It should be more than adequate for that purpose. One caveat - you may want to let the doors cure in your shop for a while before hanging them. Tung Oil does have an aroma until it cures adequately.

   Another really green option is no finish at all. Raw wood can make for a nice effect and not using a resource at all is the greenest option, followed by reducing, reusing and recycling in that order.

   Scotty - off to use some resources on my next project (including finish).