Replies

1. 
   | Feb 03, 2009 01:22am | #1

   Hello Perky,

   I think that the use of a water soluble dye is the way to go for curly maple. It's really is not that difficult to work with. Follow the instructions for mixing and always test on some sample pieces before going at your clocks. A dye followed by a coat of boiled linseed oil, applied and wiped dry, and topped with shellac, is to die for on curly maple. Actually, I would use the shellac thinned to seal the dye and oil, follow that with an oil glaze wiped on and off leaving a bit in the nooks and crannies, and finally topped with several coats of shellac.

   Bob, Tupper Lake, NY

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   Edited 2/2/2009 5:48 pm ET by salamfam

   
   

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   Edited 2/2/2009 5:49 pm ET by salamfam

   
1. 
   drawbore | Sep 22, 2012 10:21pm | #10

   new to curley maple

   I am new also to finishing curley maple.  I like your information, and your pic is what I am after.  Any other information would be appreciated.  One question.  Would it be a mistake to use WaterLox as a final coat?

                                                                                                                        Steve Hilton

2. 
   stantheman | Feb 03, 2009 03:47am | #2

   Apply the dye, then sand it back.  This enhances the figure which I think is what you want. Pre-wet the end grain to reduce absorption.

3. 
   RMillard | Feb 03, 2009 06:11am | #3

   Dyes are not difficult to use and will give you results far superior to Minwax and tung oil.

   The following link is the method I use for curly maple, and it is nearly fool proof. Doing a few test pieces will put your mind at ease and allow you to see if you like the final look.

   http://americanfederalperiod.com/Chest%20on%20frame%205.html

   Rob Millard

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Feb 03, 2009 02:29pm | #4

   Rob,

   Not to get sidetracked but your WEBsite is the best furniture site I've ever seen.  The site is a reflection of the quality or your work.  Man it just doesn't get much better than that.

   Best Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   RMillard | Feb 03, 2009 04:22pm | #5

   Bob,

    

   Thanks!

   I spent a lot of time( and money) getting it on the web, but there are a few things that still are not displaying properly. I'm going to redo the site this month transitioning most of the pages to CSS, so they will display properly across a wider range of browsers/monitors. I'm also going to format the text so it is easier to read, and proof read everything as I know there are errors.

   Thanks again

   Rob Millardhttp://www.americanfederalperiod.com

    

2. 
   PERKY | Feb 04, 2009 05:20am | #6

   Thanks for that I have your article saved in my favorites from a while ago. I will try the dye on some scrap pieces. I'm a little gun shy as I have read that if you don't work fast and keep a wet edge you will end up with streaks. I don't want to rush it and end up with a mess. Why do you prefer linseed oil? I was thinking tung oil would be the best as it can be applied with a rag to give a deep rich look..

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 04, 2009 05:33am | #7

   Dye is easier than that.  If you put it on really wet--I use a sponge--you can't run out of the wet edge, you will likely complete the entire piece before anything has dried.  If you start on the bottom and work up, any drips or runs can be wiped up with no noticable effect.  You can just continue to work it if you don't think you got it even, and if you think it is too dark you can just sponge it down with plain water to lighten it a degree.  If you really don't like the results, you can remove dye with a couple of applications of chlorine bleach. 

1. 
   PERKY | Feb 04, 2009 05:53am | #9

   Thanks, I'M feeling more confident with every ones help. I'm going to give it a try.

2. 
   RMillard | Feb 04, 2009 05:52am | #8

    I'm sorry that I worded my reply in such a way to sound like I don't like tung oil. I have not used very much of it, but when I did it looked very nice. I finished some window sills with it many years ago (1985-86) and the ones that do not get direct sunlight have held up very well.

   I have not had any problems with keeping a wet edge, when using dye. I do take care to work from the bottom up so that the dye will not run on to a raw area, and I try to work quickly (but I don't rush). I sometime spray the dye, but I still take the same precautions.

   Please post some photos of your clocks when they are finished.

   Rob Millardhttp://www.americanfederalperiod.com