Replies

1. 
   roc | Sep 09, 2009 06:10am | #1

   I am with you in enjoying my bandsaw as one of my major machines. I hardly use my tablesaw. However. The table saw makes a first class box joint machine ( with a proper jig ). I would recommend picking up a basic no frills table saw ( $ 300 used or less, $400 new ) and making a box joint jig

   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=43421.4

   Soo much easier and faster than a band saw for making the joint in question. My little table saw doesn't take up that much space and if you think about it serves as a nice flat table when you need another flat table besides your work bench.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   
   

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   Edited 9/8/2009 11:12 pm by roc

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Sep 09, 2009 08:19am | #2

   It would be quite the trick to cut finger joints well on a bandsaw. A router in a table would be a good alternative to a tablesaw.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodworks.com
   and www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   ingrainedcreations | Sep 10, 2009 05:55am | #6

   I've got a router & table (thanks to my papa), but haven't used it much to date and don't feel real comfortable with it yet.  Quess I'll fool with it and get some experience.  Do you suggest a commercial template type jig or can a finger joint jig be made in the shop (similar to the table saw jig)?

   Edited 9/9/2009 10:57 pm by Iingrainedcreations

1. 
   Don01 | Sep 10, 2009 06:13am | #7

   You can probably make a jig to fit your router table. Woodline USA has what is called a spacer fence which can be used for box joints and dove tails. Oak Park also sell them.
   I bought a set from Oak Park. They work OK but I think they are not as clean as the table saw. I think the router makes a sloppier cut in this case.
   But they do a decent job - use backing blocks, small cuts or you get lots of tear out. Take your time setting it all up, lots of practice cuts on scrap. They always demo these using cedar.Don

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Sep 10, 2009 06:33pm | #9

   Check out the Woodline USA jig Don referenced. Nice and simple. You'd have no problem making one.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   RalphBarker | Sep 09, 2009 05:30pm | #3

   I second Chris's suggestion of a router and jig as an alternative to a table saw.

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Sep 09, 2009 06:20pm | #4

   I've never done box joints on a bandsaw, but I have cut deep (3") bridle joints on one.  The difference between a box joint and bridle joint is only the number of fingers. 

   There's two issues with using a bandsaw like this.  

   First, unless you have a good bandsaw which is well-tuned, the blade can wander around a bit.  This leaves gaps in your box joint, or makes it impossible to assemble.   Me, I use a 16" Laguna saw with a carbide blade.  It works well.  You can probably do the job with a good 14" saw and a steel blade, but you do have to tune it carefully.

   Second, on most bandsaws there's no easy way to step-and-repeat, the way there is on the usual box jig for tablesaws.   I'm sure you could build a jig which does this, but it would have to be able to be adjusted to the drift angle of the blade.

   One more tip... After you've made the bandsaw cuts, you need to remove the waste.   I used a drill press to drill across the base of the waste blocks, and a chisel to square it up.

5. 
   roc | Sep 10, 2009 05:20am | #5

   My learned cochatroomers have good points. Depending on what you feel your time is worth, ( ten dollars an hour, fifty dollars an hour, a hundred etc ), could make the table saw look inexpensive. About the price of a good but not great hand plane or a truly great chisel.

   aaaahhhhdonknow. Do you want to drill and chisel endlessly over and over or do you wanna make stuff. The fact that you are looking at finger joints over the more tedious and time consuming dovetail tells me you want to get on with it.

   I was thinking two things yesterday:

   1. David Charlesworth cuts dovetails on his bandsaw and so his techniques could be used to cut your finger joints.

   2. If you are going to go at finger joints with a bandsaw and or chisel the bits out you may want to go the next step and use his methods in toto and make dove tails with all the attention to detail and fit that cutting finger joints on a bandsaw is going to require.

   The whole point of finger joints is quick and relatively brainless to cut ( on the tablesaw ) and high strength without high precision.

   He said; who spends most of his shop time planing and planing and planing and . . .

   Hey somebody was going to think it anyway.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 9/9/2009 10:36 pm by roc

   
   

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   Edited 9/9/2009 10:37 pm by roc

6. 
   roc | Sep 10, 2009 06:40am | #8

   Since I am irrepressible tonight here is another thought I have had in the back of my mind

   >They always demo these using cedar.<

   I like to use finger joints for plywood boxes; on the utilitarian side yah know.

   Table saw with lots of carbide teeth can cut stacks of joints no prob.

   The router bits are going to wear out very rapidly in the gnarlier materials; teak, plywood, purpleheart.

   Hummm . . . purpleheart finger jointed box . . . sounds kind of interesting visually . . . hmmmm . . . dark, subtle . . . hmmm

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )