Replies

1. 
   Yogi | May 31, 2005 07:44pm | #1

   If the stock is straight, it shouldn't be difficult to keep it against the fence-  I sometimes find the splitter is a little off dead on, away from the fence, and that will pull the wood away-

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 31, 2005 10:01pm | #2

   I like Daves answer.. Sounds OK..'

   I think a feather board is more a safty thing for skinny sticks..

   If Fence and Blade are true.. Just push with as little gap as you can see tween' the wood and fence!

2. 
   Dustmight | May 31, 2005 10:03pm | #3

   I try to use featherboards for every rip cut...

3. 
   BG | May 31, 2005 11:12pm | #4

   Daggs,
   If your board is straight before the cut it could be a dull blade that makes it slightly bowed.
   I your board is crooked to start with then you need to do other things beyond featherboards to get it straight. I use a straight edge between the board and fense to straighten a board.

    

4. 
   forestgirl | Jun 01, 2005 03:14am | #5

   There could be another problem, as noted above, but I have taken to using a featherboard for vitually all rip cuts.  I place it just in front of the leading edge of the blade.  I prefer a Grip-Tite Magnetic Featherboard, though I rarely use the hold-down part, just the featherboard part.  It's extremely quick to put on, take off, and adjust.  No clamping needed.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   JeffC | Jun 01, 2005 07:11am | #6

   Forestgirl is dead on in her Grip Tite recommendation. It is easy to use, so it gets used. Who has time for clamping a featherboard to accommodate different widths?Jeff

2. 
   JeffHeath | Jun 02, 2005 03:23am | #8

   forestgirl

   There we go agreeing again.  I've got the same magnetic featherboard.  Maybe YOU are my long lost sister.

   Jeff

1. 
   Daggs | Jun 02, 2005 07:07pm | #9

   I put my T-square up against the saw blade and the fence last night, and as suggested, the fence was not parallel with the blade.  It was about 1/8" of an inch out of parallel over the length of the fence.  A quick adjustment and it was working like a champ.

   Thanks to everyone who commented.

    

   Drake

   Edited 6/2/2005 2:14 pm ET by Daggs

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 02, 2005 08:06pm | #10

   1/8" ????  Yep, that'll cause a few problems, LOL!  Still going to get the GripTite??  You'll like it!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 05, 2005 10:21pm | #11

   If I had a sister she would probably look just like me and really be mad at me then!

5. 
   JohnWW | Jun 01, 2005 06:36pm | #7

   The saw may be "accurate" but it may not be properly adjusted.  If the fence isn't parallel to the blade, and is toed out instead, it is almost impossible to get the wood to stay against the fence as the cut progresses. 

   Also, the reference faces of the board must be properly straightened on a jointer or with hand planes before attempting to rip the stock, otherwise it will be difficult or impossible to control the board as you cut.

   John W.