Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Nov 03, 2008 04:38pm | #1

   postandbeam,

   I get the feeling the first door was made with wood that was still green although that is a moot point.

   I'm guessing you don't want to paint it right? That would be the easiest from a maintenance point of view.

   For a clear finish I'd suggest a good quality exterior varnish such as Pettit,or Interlux. They are high quality products that are priced around $30 a quart. These only come in gloss. Interlux also has a product called Interseal Wood Primer (#1026). This is an oil based product that lays out well and dries quickly and sands easily. The subsequent varnish coat adheres very well to it.

   There are also varnishes like McCloskey Spar varnish that I've had good luck with. Another to think about is Sikkens. I have not used this myself but have seen very good feedback on it.

   A basic finish schedule;

   Sand the surface to 180 grit. Blow out or vacuum the dust from the pores.

   Seal the wood; there are a couple of ways to accomplish this. Some like to thin their first coat of varnish 5050 with mineral spirits and use this as the sealer. I'll use the Interlux sealer.

   When dry scuff sand with 220 paper and clean all the dust off.

   For a brush I'll use foam brushes. They flow a nice coat of varnish on, leave no brush marks and require no cleanup.

   Apply your first coat of varnish; panels first, rails second, stiles third. I'll thin my varnish about 10 - 15% for the first coat.

   When dry, sand with 220 or 320 as needed and repeat. Use the varnish full strength. If you do need to thin it for better flowing keep it to around 10 % or less.

   Be sure you get the top and bottom of the door the same way you've done the rest. This is very important. 

   Plan on doing a minimum of three coats like this. Five would be better.

   Understand if you ask ten people this question, you'll get ten variants. It all boils down to the same thing and that is getting a good envelope of finish on the door.

   You'll have to maintain this finish periodically. To do so you'll need to clean the surface, scuff sand with 220 paper and then re-coat as required.

   Good luck.

   Peter

    

1. 
   postandbeam | Nov 03, 2008 06:11pm | #2

   Peter:

   Thanks very much for the detailed reply.  I sanded the door to 220, applied two coats of tung oil, sanded again to 220, and have applied one coat of full strength spar varnish (I forget the manufacturer).  Wow!  It looks amazing!  I was planning on doing only a couple of coats, but based on your advice, I'll do more.  I didn't think I'd like the gloss finish, but I'm OK with it so far.  If I change my mind, I assume I can always knock it down with 320 or 400.

1. 
   peter28 | Nov 03, 2008 07:45pm | #3

   If you plan on knocking back the gloss when complete;

   Try using a 500 or 1000 grit Abralon pad. You can find them at Woodworkers Supply or any good auto body supplier. They are a six inch round pad that use a hook and loop backing. They will level a surface very quickly. What would normally take me a couple of hours to do well, I can now do in twenty minutes with them.

   Once the surface is leveled with them a rubbing with a maroon scotch pad with further "dull" the surface. It's a bit of work but you can achieve any look you want. Obviously, the final sheen will be flatter if you use a 500 grit rather than a 1000.

   A good way to test these is to make a sample board (plywood is perfect for this) at least a foot square and apply the same finish to this as your door. It only takes a few minutes each time you do so. When complete you have the same finish to test your rubbing on.

   Don't forget the top and bottom of the door.

   Peter

1. 
   postandbeam | Nov 04, 2008 08:35pm | #4

   Peter:  Thanks for the excellent advice!

1. 
   postandbeam | Dec 03, 2008 07:01pm | #5

   Peter:  As a follwo up, I put three coats of spar varnish on the door and decided I really really liked the glossy look.  It is a fantastic finish!  I did find that great care was required to avoid streaks and brush marks, so perhaps next time I'll thin it just a bit.  Thanks for your advice!

2. 
   peter28 | Dec 07, 2008 08:25pm | #6

   Which varnish did you use end up using? What type of brush?

   Varnish can sag a little on vertical surfaces at times. You know what they say about gravity always working.

   Once you get the feel of how much to load your brush as you progress will help lessen these sags. If your brush is loaded with too much material, you end up laying a thick coat on. Don't thin your material too much and give it a light brushing out right after application.

   If you have time another coat won't hurt. Remeber, maintenance is the key to longevity.

   Thanks for getting back to me.

   Peter