Looking for different techniques of edge banding 3/4 plywood. Have a couple of computer desk to make. Will be using 3/4 plywood ( maple) for the tops, and maple lumber for face frames, and panel doors. I have seen Burgess two piece router bits that look simple to use ( a bit pricy). Anyone have any thoughts on this subject.
Thanks Pete
Replies
Hi Pete,
Here's an article to check out:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00119.asp
I've don this sort of thing using a biscuit joiner too.
Edited 6/25/2004 2:42 pm ET by FredB
Are you asking about methods of fastening solid wood, or the choice of solid wood vs. a thin "iron on" edge banding? Obviously there are pros and cons to both. I like the solid wood route, as you can shape the solid edging as you wish. In addition, some situations call for a slightly thicker edge for aesthetic purposes, and solid wood is ideal in that application. I am not familiar with the setup you mentioned, but I have seen some profile bits that seem to do a pretty good job of attaching the wood and hiding the seam. Just like glue joints, miter locks, and stiles and rails, careful setup is probably the key. I do not have much experience with the thin veneered edge banding, but seems quick and looks nice on shelves.
Is maple plywood easy to come by in your area? Where are you located?
It would help if you were more specific about what kind of edging you had in mind.
If you've got a TS and a jointer it's simple and fast.
I'll give you a thumbnail sketch of the process to see if you're interested.
Construct some cauls from 1/4" X 4/4 oak strips laminated over a curved form for a total of 1" thick. For doors I have 8, 30" long, with approximately a 4" curve in the mid-point.
Ply edges should be cut/finished with a good 60/80T blade with no splintering.
Banding is 15/16" X 5/16", jointed on one side, (glue side).
Use 2 pipe or bar clamps flat on a work surface. Tape a couple of 1/16" shims to the top of the clamps for clearance and to register the overhang of the banding. Spread a thin layer of glue on the banding and place it against the ply. Place the caul in the clamps at each end of the panel. Tighten until the caul is straight and you have a even glue line. Leave in the clamps for 2 hours.
Flush trim. Rip the doors down 1/16" on each side and round over with a 3/16" bit.
Fine Woodwording had an article on this about 10 years ago, and I've been doing it since.
I've recently started using a v-groove router bit (side, not end mounted) and a guide with a flat on the start side and a v-groove on the end side. I run the groove first and then cut some v shaped pieces on the table saw. I can then either nail or clamp the faces and have a finished edge indistinguishable from real wood. A little while ago I made up a piece of cherry plywood and used end grain for the ends of the piece and completely fooled another woodworker who couldn't believe how light this "new" cherry wood was.
Just glue it to the plywood. You don't need bisquits, tongue and groove or any fancy bits to accomplish this. Glue two panels at a time so they act like their own cauls and use the pattern cutting technique on your tablesaw to flush trim. If you don't know the pattern cutting technique ... http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1234
Make the fence taller to support the panels.
Edited 6/29/2004 1:31 pm ET by rick3ddd
Edited 6/29/2004 1:32 pm ET by rick3ddd
Good answer Rick. As my old carpenter boss once told me many times against my tendency to over glue or overbuild, "Where's it gonna go?" - i.e. have you ever had edging come off before?
The best glue for solid edging to plywood (or MDF, HDPB etc.) edges is PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive. PVA glue only bonds to the long grain in the ply, and not well to the end grain due to the soak-in and joint starving tendency of PVA's, unless time is given for "pre-wetting". The PL soaks into the end grain plies and then expands a little to fill the voids.
PL is also superior for gluing face frames to ply edged cabinets too, which are notorious for slight gappage, where the PL fills and locks the voids. Its adhesion and cohesion is way stronger than Gorilla glue, and at about 25% of the price.
"The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)
http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro http://www.johnblazydesigns.com
I agree. I simply cut 1/8" thick strips of whatever wood I'm edging with and glue it to the plywood edge with yellow glue. I like to use a pin nailer to hold it in place and then either clamp it or, with larger panels, use blue tape to hold it tight to the ply while it sets. After the glue sets, I use a trim router with a flush trim bit to flush the edges.
On the pattern cutting technique you referenced, seems the guy makes a simple process a bit more complex. If he can screw the pattern to his workpiece when using the tablesaw, why not do the same thing when routing. I prefer to attach the pattern to a workpiece with double-stick tape, lay it on a router pad and go for it -- no clamping required.Bill Arnold
B&B Woodworking
I should have known that it would get confused. I meant to use the same type of fence but taller, as in pattern cutting and have it raised above the blade the thickness of the banding. You set the edge of the fence to the left side of the blade. You then run the pieces band edge down on the table with the face of the plywood panel against the fence. With this technique you can flush trim as fast as you can push the pieces through the saw. This technique works great with any type of banding and just so happens to be the basis of pattern cutting. I thought the link would give a basic illustration of the fence set up for the trimming techique but apparently it was not clear enough. I know a picture is worth more than a thousand words on these forums. I'll see if I can find a pic to clarify it more but it's faster than a router and pnly takes a bit of sanding to finish up.
Edited 7/1/2004 11:49 am ET by rick3ddd
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