So i go the rockler Dust Collector Remote Switch for fathers day and the thing seems to start to work but then the breaker on it kicks, Its rated for DC up to 1.5 hp what gives? Any one else have one of these things and does it work?
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Replies
Just for kicks, what kind of amperage is it listed for?
you know I am not sure. This is all rockler has to say
Conveniently turn your dust collector on and off from any place in your workshop!
Simply press on/off button on the transmitter handpiece.
Signal will travel up to 50 ft. and easily passes through walls!
Easy installation. Just plug your dust collector into transmitter box and your ready to go.
6' grounded cord.
110 volt works up to 1.5Hp dust collectors.
Tinkerer is right, give CS a call (or take it back to Rockler if it was a local store). As far as the amps go, that should be listed somewhere on the remote, along with other specs. Amps are a more relevant spec than HP.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I went out and looked on the actual switch and no where on it does it say anything about amps.
Odd. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
1 hp = 746 watts
1.5 HP = 1119 watts
Amps=watts/volts (I=P/E)
Amps=1119 watts/110 Volts (Stated on switch)
10.17 Amps
Now stop this...Your making me have to dig back in my brain...Owww...it hurts. lolLen
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
You need to include factors for efficiency (about 0.75-0.80) and power factor (about 0.80). The full-load current consumption of a 1.5 HP, 120 V induction motor is generally around 17 A.
-Steve
Right.
But I was just converting what the switch label stated to get what the switch is rated at.
Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
But that's what I'm saying--if a switch is labeled "1.5 HP," then that means it has to be able to rated for at least 17 A continuous load, not just 10 A.
-Steve
"Owww...it hurts. lol" It good for you, Len! ROFL!! I knew there were formulae somewhere, but from looking at various motor plates (a sad weakness of mine) I also was aware that, for whatever reason, not all 1.5 HP motors draw the same amps.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/24/2008 11:30 am by forestgirl
Do you have the tool your operating on the same circuit? If you do then plug it into another circuit and give it a try.
Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
The only thing i am trying to turn on in the whole shop is the DC, nothing but the radio is running.
Sounds like you have a defective switch. I'd return it and get another. Sorry I couldn't have been more help.Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
yeah when i first opened it and plugged it in it worked fine for a few times, but now its not, Called rockler and they said they would send a new one to try out.
I'd call customer service. It could be a defective breaker. I assume the DC is in fact 1.5 HP or less.
Ok Len and Sas since you two seem to know way more about shocking the hell out of myself than even I do, answer me this.
So the remote switch that the DC plugs into has some sort of breaker in it that when it hits X amps it kicks, (is this correct) and Say its rated for 110 volts but the DC pulls 120 volts, Can i just put in a slightly larger breaker some how?
"Say it is rated for 110 volts, but the DC pulls 120 volts".
No, no, no. If the electric is coming in at 110 volts, then that is what it is. An apparatus can't draw more voltage than what it is supplied. But at a given voltage, a motor can draw more amperage than the rated breaker protecting it. To make a comparison - Voltage is pressure, Amperage is current flow, Resistance is resistance to current flow. Amperage is a result of voltage and resistance. If you have fifty psi of water entering your shop, only so much water will flow through a one half inch pipe. That is because the pipe size is limiting the flow because of size restriction. That pipe cannot draw more than fifty psi because only fifty psi is supplied. I could get into internal resistance, impedance etc. but why complicate it. I'm over my head now.
Edited 6/25/2008 12:11 am ET by Tinkerer3
Hang in there, wait for the new one to come from Rockler and see if it works. If it doesn't, ditch it for a Long Ranger.
The reviews on Rockler are quite positive, but there was one other person who thought there was a problem with the breaker.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Current capacity is determined by the "size" of things. To handle more current, a device has to be beefier (e.g., more copper). Voltage capacity is determined primarily by insulation resistance, and is generally not an issue--most any device can handle considerably more voltage than it will ever see in normal use.
Yes, your switch contains a circuit breaker. But it's tripping because of excessive current draw, not excessive voltage. No, you can't just replace it (well, you can, but you're going to be hard-pressed to find a drop-in replacement).
The bottom line is simple: There is something wrong with the switch, and replacing the whole thing is your best bet; it's not worth the effort to open it up and figure out what's wrong inside. I'm generally leery of a device that doesn't explicity list its current capacity, but that's what you often get in low-end, non-UL rated stuff.
-Steve
One more thing that should be considered. If the breaker is old or has tripped a number of times in the past. The breaker may need to be replaced.
I would plug the remote and DC into another circuit and try it. If it trips the breaker then it's the remote.
As SAS pointed out you need 17 AMP capacity on your circuit. What size is the breaker on your circuit?
BTW. I did a quick look at remote DC switches and all are rated by HP rather than amps. Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
Len So the circuit braker in the wall could be the problem? The one in the wall is not tripping its the one on the remote that seems to have issues. THanks
Ah...Sorry I was confused. I assumed it was the wall unit. My apologies.Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
I didn't get the idea that it was the circuit breaker that was tripping but rather the breaker on the device itself which is new. If this is true, it wouldn't do any good to try another circuit.
So rockler sent me a new one and it does the exact same thing. Is anyone running the delta 1.5hp DC on one of these? and if your using another one can you tell me what one.
Now to try and get rockler to take both these back.
BLA
Long Ranger, it works great, has a good reputation. click here. Amazon might have a better price.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Ok so i was looking more at my DC and it says that Its 1-1/2 HP, 3,450 RPM, 120/240V (Wired 120V), 1 Phase, 60 Hz.
The roclker as well as the Lone Ranger are both listed as 110V.
Am I just going to have the same issues with the this one? How are they all rated at 1-1/2 HP yet they cant pull enough juice to make the things run.
I run a Jet 1.5HP DC with mine, the cannister model. The Lone Ranger has been around since before rockler dreamed of selling a remote, it'll work fine.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The Long Ranger works great. No issues for 6 months with mine on a 1.5HP Delta. It is mounted outside in a seperate room, and the signal works through a block wall. Doesn't matter which way you point it, it works with no hassle.
AZMO <!----><!----><!---->
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AZMO
What delta do you have?
I have a Long Ranger III working with 110 volts 2hp DC. The Long Ranger is rated for 110v/1.5hp motor. I contacted Penn Stated and was told it would work. It has been working for about 8 months.
You have to know the amperage. Both Rockler and Delta should be able to supply the info. Plus Delta should be able to provide the surge current your DC motor draws.
There is more to blower, current draw etc than a simple HP number.
Do you have blast gates open when you start up? If so, then close them. The fan/motor draw less current when moving 0 cfm.
Don
"Do you have blast gates open when you start up? If so, then close them. The fan/motor draw less current when moving 0 cfm." IMHO, this really shouldn't be necessary. If they can't design a remote switch that handles the load with a blast gate open, they should just drop out of the market.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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