Ok, Folks, I need some sort of way to batch produce cylinders of a certain diameter on the lathe. The wood will have a hollow center so vibration is a issue. I need it to be somehow a perfect cylinder with the same diameter all the way along the axis so turning it by hand isn’t an option. I’ve seen duplicators out there but they don’t seem to do a very good job and I would hate to buy a duplicator just to turn cylinders. Accuracy is extremely crucial as the wood will somehow have to friction fit into a copper pipe. Does anyone know how this can be done? I was thinking about some sort of router jig that lets me mount the router to the top of the workpiece and run it along while manually rotating the spindle. However, this seems a little… cumbersome. Thanks!!!
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Replies
TF, If the blanks are pre-bored to the correct interior dimensions, and the work mounted between centers, (as done on a lathe)Your Idea of using a top mounted router along with a motor driven or hand cranked device would do the trick How many hands do you have ?
I've produced some fine gavels, using hand made centers clamped atop a router table, by using an electric drill to rotate the blanks.
Having had but two hands, I utilized a foot switch to control the clamped in place variable speed drill's rotation Good luck Steinmetz
Edited 11/16/2008 6:57 pm ET by Steinmetz
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/921332264.html
Try this! Looks to be an older Craftsman pattern makers lathe. How could you go wrong for $125.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Give us the specs of the the wood : i/d, o/d, and length and we may be able to suggest other solutions for you
"Give us the specs of the the wood : i/d, o/d, and length and we may be able to suggest other solutions for you"Let see, cylinder A is about 1" OD with an ID of about 3/4" (actual sizing of copper piping isn't excact) And Cylinder B is about a quarter inch smaller in all dimensions, or 3/4" OD and 1/2" ID.
I think that you can get accuracy enough by preboring the blanks to the i/d .Making a hardwood mandrel with low shoulders and mounting between centres.Turn to <1/16 oversize using a gauge.Then caliper to final size plus a hair at each end.If you spraymount some 400 hermes sand paper to a strip of mdf with a handle on the top, paper on the bottom that is only a fraction longer than the cylinder and apply to the wood with the strip running along the axis till you sand down to the gauge marks.It will then need a touch more to size.If you chase threads on a lathe by hand that sort of accurracy is quite do-able.Using a mandrel you may be able to gang several together and cut them afterwards,provided the total length is not too great for boring or vibration
Turning Freak ,
The dimensions you need are going to leave the walls at 1/8" thickness and you need a friction fit on copper pipe , will there be hot or cold water in the pipe ?
The 1/8" may not offer much in the way of strength or stability , imo with the friction fit any seasonal movement of the cylinder may cause failure or cracks .
dusty
You might be changing you sizes. 3/4" copper pipe is 3/4" on the inside. About 7/8" on the outside.
1/2" copper is 5/8" on the outside.
You make an open ended, three sided box out of plywood or mdf that sits on your lathe bed. The stock is held between centers inside this box. Your router rides on the top edges of the sides of the box with a guide fence to keep it located properly. Oh, the box must be perfectly aligned with the turning. You install a 1/2" dia. straight bit in your router. A spiral bit will work best. The router is set to have the bit shear the side of the turning stock. Take light passes and it's best to pre-turn the pieces to nearly the finished size before using the router.
Is any of that understandable? I've done this on several occasions and although loud and messy, it works.
T F, After boring the correct i d, (and cutting the workpiece over long,) turn a hardwood mandrel to snugly fit that bore .
Center drill both ends of the mandrels for placement between centers and use a face plate and lathe dog to drive the mandrel.
In order to avoid the work piece slipping aboard the mandrel, tack a nail or pin through the longer (over sized) end of the work piece into the mandrel and turn down the cylinder's OD with the method suggested, Steinmetz
Edited 4/13/2009 4:02 am ET by Steinmetz
Edited 4/13/2009 4:05 am ET by Steinmetz
Edited 4/13/2009 4:09 am ET by Steinmetz
Edited 4/13/2009 4:10 am ET by Steinmetz
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