Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 20, 2008 12:09am | #1

   Describe the shaft above the chuck. Is it straight or tapered, how long is it and what is the diameter, are there flats or slots or threaded areas on it?

   On the main casting of the drill is there a number cast into the side, something like DP220?

   Also what is the distance between the front edge of the post and the centerline of the chuck?

   Is there an opening in the front of the head casting where you can see the arbor housing, with an inch scale engraved in it, going up and down when you move the feed handle?

   John White

   
   

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   Edited 3/19/2008 7:39 pm ET by JohnWW

1. 
   mariner1 | Mar 20, 2008 08:31pm | #2

   Thank you for your reply to my drill press question.  Here are my answers to your questions:

   The shaft above the chuck is straight with a diameter of 1.127 in.  It is 3 1/4 in. long and extends about 3/8 in. from the top of the chuck to the bottom of the cylinder which holds it.  The.re are no flats, slots, or threaded areas on it. 

   There is no number cast into the side of the drill.  However, I did find the number DP 651 on the back of the 9 x 7 in. plate to which the motor is mounted.  The plate is bolted to the back of the drill casting and the number is hard to see.

   The distance between  the front edge of the post and the centerline of the chuck is 8.5 in.

   There is an opening in the front of the head casting.  It measures 1 in. wide by 1 7/8 in long and is covered by a thin brass cover which is supposed to be removed monthly "to lubricate the spline."  I found no inch scale inside when I moved the feed handle up and down.

   I should also let you know that I have reinserted the quill into the cylinder and tapped  the chuck upwards with a brass hammer. The quill  seems to have reseated in the cylinder.  The quill, chuck and drill bit turn and   I have drilled a few test holes without problems.  However, I am still curious about the manufacturer, model and what's holding the quill in its cylinder.  Maybe I can find a users manual somewhere.

    Thanks again for your help.

   Mariner

    

    

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 21, 2008 01:40am | #3

   The Delta 17" drills had a bearing and spacer assembly that mounted in the lower section of the quill housing and that is what has come loose. Just to confirm that is what we are talking about, was there a small "gear" on the top of the assembly? I'm not sure what, if anything, retained the assembly in the quill. It may be just a press fit, but from looking at parts sheets, there is a good chance that there was also a snap ring, or a simple circle of spring wire, called a garter spring, that went into a groove on the inside of the quill just above the chuck to retain the bearing assembly. If you take a look inside of the housing the groove would be easily visible, if the bearing assembly is fully seated, which it may not be.Instead of a snap ring there might have been a threaded sleeve that held the bearing assembly in the nose of the quill. If that is the case the inside of the quill will be threaded and the nut must be missing. It wouldn't be that difficult to make a simple circle of wire to replace the retainer if it is missing. Delta Milwaukee later became Delta Rockwell and is now known just as Delta Machinery. They made this drill, which is a very nice design, for many years. I doubt if you will be able to get parts from Delta but you can try.For $5.00 I can send you photo copies of two different parts sheets and manuals for a slightly later, but nearly identical, models of the drill if you are interested. The manual contains little in useful directions, but the parts sheets could help to solve some problems.John WhiteEdited 3/20/2008 6:54 pm ET by JohnWW

   Edited 3/20/2008 6:56 pm ET by JohnWW

1. 
   mariner1 | Mar 22, 2008 12:49am | #4

   Thank you for all the info in your last e-mail.  After reading it I decided to pry the quill assembly out of its housing and reexamine it.  Turns out the quill does have a slight taper and the top 3/4 in. is flattened.  This mates with a slot inside the quill housing and allows the whole assembly to turn.  There is also a groove about 3/32 in. above the top of the chuck (for the missing "garter spring"?).  I cannot see or feel any matching grove inside the quill housing.

   The quill shaft  has a darker 1/2 in. band about half way up that is engraved - "Jacobs CHUCK ARBOR,  M. T. 6.  J.T. ENGLAND".  The chuck is also engraved - "34-06  6TAPER, 0-1/2 in CAP, JACOBS USA".

   I find no "bearing and spacer assembly" in the lower section of the quill housing.

   I would like to take you up on your photo copy offer.  Just let me know where to send a check.  I think the copies will help me out with nomenclature if nothing else.  I have 2 decent digital pictures - one of the quill and chuck and one of the front of the drill press but your message format doesn't seem to allow for their inclusion.

   Thanks again for the help.

   Mariner1

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 23, 2008 08:13pm | #5

   When you go to the respond page to type in a message, you will see at the bottom a box in a row of five boxes that says "Attach Files". If you click on that box you will be able add photos. If you have a problem getting the photos to post send a note to Matt Berger, who is also one of the "Experts" and he can help you out with getting the photos attached.I would like to see both a picture of the machine and of the problem parts, we may still be talking about two entirely different drill presses.John White

2. 
   mariner1 | Mar 25, 2008 01:47am | #6

   Here are two pictures - one of the quill/chuck assembly and one of the front of the drill casing with the access plate (for lubrication) removed.  I'll take a couple more to show the drill press as a whole.

   Thanks.  Mariner1

    

    

   
3. 
   mariner1 | Mar 25, 2008 11:47pm | #7

   Here are 2 more pictures of the drill press.

   mariner1

   
4. 
   JohnWW | Mar 26, 2008 01:41am | #8

   OK, the photos combined with your later messages clears up the confusion. We had a misunderstanding of the terminology. The "quill" is the large, 2 inches or so in diameter, cylindrical assembly, inside the head casting, that holds the bearings for the arbor assembly. It is the unit that moves up and down when you move the feed hand wheel. The part sticking out of the back of the chuck is a Morse taper arbor. The shaft that sticks down below the head and spins inside of the quill, is the machine's spindle. The inside of the spindle is also a Morse taper. The two tapered surfaces are very precisely matched and their wedging action is all that holds the arbor in the spindle. To work properly the tapered arbor and the inside of the spindle need to be immaculately clean, which from the photos of the chuck and arbor isn't the case.So gently clean both surfaces with penetrating oil and fine steel wool, don't use any abrasives or files that might remove metal or nick up the surfaces. Don't use Scotchbrite pads they also contain an abrasive. A wood dowel will allow you to move the steel wool around in the bore without risking any damage to it. This is a tedious job but take your time to get the inside of the spindle clean. Make sure when you are done that there aren't any stray bits of the steel wool or chips inside of the spindle. After cleaning up the two parts, wipe them down several times with clean towels and paint thinner or naphtha to remove any grease or oil.If there are any nicks in the surfaces already, carefully and gently use a fine file to remove them without changing the overall shape of the shaft or bore. A warning: do not be tempted to try to clean out the bore of the spindle while it is turning under power. If a finger tip or tool snags in the spinning bore you'll lose the finger by twisting it off, a really ugly injury.To install the arbor into the spindle, begin by fully opening up the drill chuck so that the three jaws that grab the bit are drawn completely inside of the chuck. Next, make one more inspection to be sure that the spindle and arbor are absolutely clean, smooth, and have no raised burrs. Insert the arbor into the spindle so that the flat tang on the end of the arbor slides into the slot at the back of the spindle bore. Now, using a brass hammer or a block of wood to pad a steel hammer, tap severally times firmly upward on the drill chuck to seat the taper. Do not hammer hard on the chuck or you can damage the ball bearings inside of the quill.That should do it. To remove the arbor you should drive a tapered metal tool called a key into the small cross slot at the top of the spindle. Despite the MT 6 marking on the arbor the taper is probably a MT #2 and you can buy a key from any tool supply house for that size. If you can give me the largest and smallest diameters of the machined surfaces of the taper, and how long the machined surface is, I can tell you for sure what size standard taper you have.The manuals I have are for that machine. Send me a check for $5 and I'll send copies of them to you.John White

5. 
   mariner1 | Mar 26, 2008 04:08am | #9

   Very many thanks for your detailed instructions on fixing my drill press problem.  I apologize for the initial confusion.  My lack of any sort of manual caused me to misname some of the parts.  I will start the procedure you outlined tomorrow.

   I look forward to putting the press back in operation.  It has a lot of sentimental value to me. 

   Your reference library is impressive.  Please send me an address for the $5 check.

   Thanks again.

   Mariner1

    

6. 
   JohnWW | Mar 26, 2008 05:43pm | #10

   Sorry, I meant to include the address: John White, P.O. Box 389, Rochester, VT 05767John W.

7. 
   mariner1 | Mar 27, 2008 08:03pm | #11

   Thanks.  My $5 for the manual is in the mail.

   The measurements on my arbor are:

   0.667 in. diameter at the base just above the chuck

   0.598 in. diameter at top just below the bottom of the tang section

   The machined area (top of the chuck to bottom of the tang section) is 2  17/32 in. long.

   Mariner1

    

    

    

    

    

8. 
   JohnWW | Mar 27, 2008 08:42pm | #12

   You have a #2 Morse taper on your drill. I'll send you the manual copies as soon as your check arrives.John W.