Replies

1. 
   peterg62901 | Sep 09, 2002 05:08am | #1

   There was a plan in FWW recently and some other mag as well (it used its own DC though).  I think it was the Shop and Tools special issue (you can find out for sure by doing a search on the FWW web site).

   Good luck.

2. 
   AlanTurner | Sep 09, 2002 01:14pm | #2

   Not very high end, but I built a sort of downdraft table.  About 2' x 3.5' by 6", with the DC going into the side, similiar size to yours, and 1/2" holes drilled on a graph pattern every 3" on the top.  Not perfect, but much better than nothing.  It ilves in the corner, and goes onto the bench when needed.  I only use it for RO sanding.

3. 
   Bengst | Sep 10, 2002 03:47am | #3

   Most workbenches usually don't have a router lift assembly in them but here's what I've done with my router table.  I made an MDF insert with a grid of holes in it.  My router table is an enclosed cabinet type with a 1'x1'x1' enclosed area beneath the Jessum router lift assembly.  I hooked up my dc to that chamber and with the MDF insert in place of the router lift I have a small downdraft table.  It doesn't work the best for large pieces but since I mostly make boxes, it works great for those smaller items. 

   Jeffrey

    

4. 
   TomFerreira | Sep 10, 2002 04:14am | #4

   You know, I've been toying with this same idea for my workbench for some time. It would be really nice to have a downdraft feature in the table permanantly which could be turned on by simply opening a blast gate.

   The scheme you suggest Craig, has merit but I always felt like I didn't want to lose the continuity of the solid bench top, or interfere with it's strength.

   The idea I've been thinking of was to cross drill a matrix of intersecting holes through the thickness of the top say 1/2 or 5/8" dia spaced 2 X dia apart and plug the ends. Then drill a series of 3/16 or 1/4" holes in the top for the sanding surface. Drill larger holes underneath the top say the same diameter as the cross holes and attach a 5" dust hood underneath the table to the DC.

   I've been reluctant to do this however as there is no turning back.

   TDF

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Sep 10, 2002 06:17pm | #5

   Tom,

   I agree that I do not want to sacrifice the integrity of my benchtop. After some thought the past few days,  I am now pondering making a 2' x 4' x 6" box that would hinge to the back of my bench and flip up.  For the most part my bench is butted up against my cabinet saw to double as an outfeed table (due to space limitiations). It could fold down and hang vertically (below my bench and TS rear fence rail), then when I need it, roll my cab saw out of the way and flip it up, using the same DC hose from my cab saw. 

   I have also pondered making a slide out table from under my benchtop, but considering the size and weight of my projects and the weight of the downdraft table, I would likely have to purchase some realy hefty slides which would be out of my budget.

   Alot of what I do is larger work.  Right now I am doing a shaker style kitchen for a friend of mine, so I have alot of cabinet work and doors.  I also have entertainment centers, beds, and more kitchen remodels lined up on the waiting list, so I will need a fairly large support surface. 

   I appreciate all the feedback everyone has given me here.  Please keep it coming.  It has truly helped my thought process. 

   -Craig

1. 
   davamoore | Sep 11, 2002 10:11pm | #6

   Somewhere along the line I may have missed something that might make this non-feasible, but:

   Why not create a downdraft grid in your workbench (either installed or that is cut from the workbench itself) that is slightly recessed, say, just shy of one-half inch below the benchtop?  Then you could cut a piece of half-inch plywood to the dimensions of the downdraft area, that you could slip on top, flush with the table, thus keeping a flat, solid surface on which you could set your projects when you're not sanding.

   I'm assuming your workbench top isn't so thick or of such value that you don't mind chopping a hole (or holes) in it.

   DavidHmmm... the garden or the workshop today?

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Sep 12, 2002 06:32pm | #7

   David,

   This was my first thought, it was similar to the plan in a magazine last year(minus the fan motor and blower), and this looked to be the most promising solution.  Through my thought process and evalutation, along with other developments, my top is now going to be 2" maple. I realize that my original posting was vague, mainly I wanted a variety of feedback.  I appreciate all of the feedback that I have received, including yours.  It's kept my thought process evolving.   

   Originally I had planned on builing my own top, but things have changed.   Due to my time constraints (my current bench top made out of laminated MDF with 2x supports has a 3/8" sag in the middle ), I probably will end up purchasing a prefab butcher block top- I can get a hard maple one 25" x 60" locally  for about $150. This is about $25 more than I would pay for the raw material for the top.   In the time I save jointing,gluing up, and flattening, I figure that I can pay for the top itself working on my other projects.   

   I don't really want to put a hole in it, not necessarily because of the value, but because I don't want to sacrifice the strength of the top.  I want something that I can pound on and not worry about my tools or parts jumping back up at me.  Also, when using it as an outfeed table for my Cabinet saw, I want to minimize the amount of surfaces for the material to catch on. 

1. 
   davamoore | Sep 12, 2002 06:59pm | #8

   Got it... I wouldn't want to punch a lot of holes through a well-made workbench top either, for all sorts of reasons.

   Sounds like you're heading in a good direction; i.e., a supplemental or separate table.  I know I need one (Project #37 on my list of 72!), so I'll be interested in a follow-up report once you've made yours.

   DavidHmmm... the garden or the workshop today?

2. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Sep 12, 2002 11:30pm | #9

   I'll post some photos when I'm done.  Looks like my legs and supports will be laminated birch plywood for now.  I measured the table and fence on my saw, so if I hinge the downdraft table just right, it should stow under the table and fence rails on the cabinet saw.  Then I can flip it up and adjust the legs, and have a large work and support area if needed.