Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 24, 2005 07:16pm | #1

   Jaime, there are almots as many "washcoat" or "spitcoat" formulas as there are finishers.

   The key is to let the more absorbent areas of the wood absorb the sealer (which can be any finish compatable with the planned final finish). Then lightly sand the surface to open up the pores in the harder, less aborbent areas. Mostly, a 1# or 1/2# cut of shellac is used because it dries fast. But, you can use a highly thinned coat of any finish except a waterborne which should not be thinned.

   I have used shellac, lacquer and even varnish. The trouble with varnish is that it takes too long to dry.

   There are many ways of dealing with woods that accept coloring unevenly. Using a washcoat is only one. Using a stain controller like linseed oil is another. There are more but none work perfectly always.

   The article attempts to quantify the mixture. I have never felt the need to be that accurate but it is good to have a starting point

   Howie.........
1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 25, 2005 02:11am | #2

   "The article attempts to quantify the mixture."  Yep, good way to explain it.  I was surprised I'd never seen that approach before.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 04, 2005 06:29pm | #3

   I use that approach all the time forestgirl! ;)I re-worked the article a little with some added detail and pictures to help explain the approach better (I hope).I think the technique is probably more usefull to finishers more than the average person that does finishing on occassion. Using myself as an example, I work with a lot of different types and brands of stain as well as wood species and need precise control over the final appearance of the finish as well as the ability to repeat the look exactly at any given time (add-ons and new customers wanting the same finish). Mostly, I use the article as a reference for finishers that post on my website or the professional finishing forum.For most folks, using shellac in either a 1/2# or 1# cut will provide good, consistent results. A large sample will show which cut is better!
   Paul S
   Website

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 04, 2005 10:42pm | #4

   Hi Paul!  Thanks for posting! 

    "...and need precise control over the final appearance of the finish as well as the ability to repeat the look exactly at any given time "   Yep, data would be indispensible in that case.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 05, 2005 02:33am | #6

   Hey, thanks for prodding me to take another look at that article forestgirl! I didn't realize how dry and technical it was until you asked about it.Happy 4TH!
   Paul S
   Website

2. 
   mikegagne | Jul 04, 2005 11:43pm | #5

   The wiz's site is good and leaves the topic open to experimentation. I use catalized vinyl sealer and reduce it for my needs and learned a couple of things at his site. As always there are alot of ways to go. Try one and decide if you like it as the whole finishing biz is individual to the aplicator/artist. Its another area of experimentation....sorry I cant be giving a hard fast rule.... but you didnt want that anyway. Aloha, mike