I’m making a buffet for my wife out of poplar and she wants a distressed black finish. Exactly how can I accomplish this? Do I need a HVLP spray gun to get the approriate results or can I do it another way?
here’s a photo of an example of what she’s looking for
Replies
Are you looking for something like this??
my recommendation:
- black milk paint (http://www.milkpaint.com/)
- sanded
- top coat with BLO
Like this?
Existing finish was stain & lacquer.
Added black lacquer, snnded through with scotch brite, then added "dusty wax"
Well I talked to my wife and she said the examples you guys gave are too "antiquish". She wants more of a solid black in between a matte and satin finish with just a slight bit of wear on the edges. Sorta like a piece you would see at the Pottery Barn. She doesn't want any brush marks to show so I thought that I would have to use a spray gun. Can I achieve a nice smooth finish using a brush?
mike
Oh, in that case, a can of black laquer spray paint.
Do I need to prime the piece first?
Yes, you can get a nice smooth finish using a brush. There are several parts of the "secret". First is surface preparation. Just because you will paint it doesn't mean it doesn't have to have tight joints and be leveled and smoothly sanded. A good primer helps, largely because it sands well. Each coat of finish needs to be applied as evenly as possible, with a oil based enamel that flows out nicely. (Most are now too thick when you open the can and will need thinner added to brush smoothly and for brush strokes to flow out.) Milk paint doesn't go on quite so easy but sands well. Then you have to expect to carefully sand between each coat removing any defects such as runs, sags, or brush strokes before going on. The last coat will also need to be sanded to level and then rubbed out to the desired sheen.
Applying a contrasting color paint and then rubbing away the corners to reveal it is a good look. For example, a red milk paint under black milk paint can be subtly sanded to reveal just a hint of the red at corners or other wear spots. Then the entire surface can be top coated with an oil/varnish mix to entensify the colors and give a smoother surface.
That said, it is easier to get a smooth surface by spraying, but it does come with a learning curve so that some practice is needed. You can't get brush strokes, but you can get orange peel and other defects when spraying.
Edited 2/5/2008 9:51 pm ET by SteveSchoene
If not sprayed you might use a very fine (and small) foam brush to apply the paint--an eggshell finish might be pleasing. If you don't want a contrasting color of paint as Steve mentioned, just sand the paint off the edges to simulate wear and then apply a coat of stain so it darkens those edges. When our DD made furniture like this, they just applied the stain all over and didn't topcoat with anything else. You could wax, in this case, or leave it as is.Gretchen
"She doesn't want any brush marks to show...." In that case, I strongly suggest you not touch the piece until you've perfected your technique (a la Steve's post, perhaps) on several nice large pieces of scrap. My respect for professional painters is immense after making two painted pieces last year for a friend. Sheesh.
PS: I love milk paint, but not sure how it would be affected by drips of water or alcohol. Not that it would remove the paint (almost nothing does) but it might cause some streaking. Have to hear from the experts on that.....
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 2/6/2008 12:41 pm by forestgirl
FG, Yeah i'm definetly going to practice on some scraps fisrt.
Thanks for all the info guys. It's getting me closer to what I need to do.
In my little "episode" with painting last year, I was fortunate to run into a guy who does custom kitchens and the like, at the paint store. On the advice of the owner of the store, I asked the painter a few questions about using a particular Benjamin Moore product. The extent to which he recommended I thin it was way beyond anything on the can, and had the store owner picking his jaw up from the floor. That's when I learned that what's in black and white ain't necessarily what works. ROFL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I can go drip on something of mine and check! 'O) But it could be topcoated with a matte finish.Gretchen
Milk paint will waterspot like you fear. Except if, after you sand it smooth, you apply a coat (two at most) of an oil/varnish mix, applying and wiping it dry. The effect will be to entensify the color and to block the potential for water spotting. Gives a burnished look almost.
I was afraid you were going to say that: "Sorta like a piece you would see at the Pottery Barn.":-P
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