Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Nov 19, 2008 10:51pm | #1

     Have you tried compressed air ? how about a thinner wash ?

1. 
   elert | Nov 19, 2008 11:42pm | #2

   Thank you for your feedback.

   Unfortunately I have tried both compressed air and a wash and although they help, the discoloration is still there. The compressed air gets rid of most of the dust in the woods pores but not all. The wash coat helps in the final sanding stages but typically by then the light wood has already been affected. And in fact, the wash coat, although protecting from further damage, locks in the darker dust particles that couldn't be removed with the compressed air.

   Any other ideas?

1. 
   RalphBarker | Nov 20, 2008 02:54am | #3

   Would applying a sanding sealer prior to sanding help?

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 20, 2008 09:09am | #4

   Planing shouldn't give you the problem--just make sure you aren't creating dust, just a thin shaving.  Even with a sharp scraper you shouldn't get dust.  Maple's pores are tight enough that only dust ought to be a problem. 

3. 
   hammer1 | Nov 20, 2008 04:30pm | #5

   Bloodwood is notorious for bleeding, honestly. The oils from it stain the maple. Use a different species.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

4. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 21, 2008 03:07am | #6

   I have no idea if this will help you.

   I do a lot of laminations of contrasting woods.

   I always make over sized to do the final whatever...

   You said.. When sanding or planing,.. I wonder how planning would do that but I DO NOT doubt you.

   I usually cut and then sand ALOT. I finish off with my card scrapers. If the grain is very deep I will give the surface a wash coat of shellac before final sanding/scraping (after cleaning it the best I can with 100 psi air blast and my shop vacuume..

   I frankly have never been bothered by what you describe. Maybe my standards are not up to yours? But then again I feel wood is wood and leave it at that.

   You never mentioned the woods used.