Replies

1. 
   woodensplinter | Jan 29, 2005 10:02am | #1

   Radial arms are designed to cut on the pull stroke.  SCMS are designed to cut on the push stroke BUT you're supposed to use the clamps.  Cutting on the push stroke can cause the wood to be lifted (and propelled) off the table.

2. 
   jaypoe | Jan 29, 2005 03:56pm | #2

   Pull stroke! Don't pull hard. Let the cut of the blade determine the feed rate. Much easier and safer when cutting multiple cuts not to have to feed material behind a spinning blade.

3. 
   MarkRD | Jan 30, 2005 02:54am | #3

   Pull stroke and use a stiff right arm (if you are a righty) to kee the unit from running towards you ...

   Mark

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 30, 2005 06:00pm | #5

   I agree!  I had a old Craftsman 12"??  Son-In-Law now has it for cutting metal.. I just used wood.. Pushing get ya in trouble really quick!

   NOT SAFE to push!

   Edited 1/30/2005 10:01 am ET by Will George

1. 
   albert1 | Jan 31, 2005 08:11am | #6

   Wow!  Not a single vote for pushing.  I have not experienced it but I can begin to see how the material, if not secured, can be lifted and flinged away by the blade when pushing.  When first attempting to pull the saw, early on, the blade climbed and stalled over the work piece....It just didn't seem natural.  Plus I feared that the blade would be climbing all over me!

   I've begun to use the saw as all of you recommend, with a stiff arm to maintain a constant feed rate.  I put a spacer against the fence so that the thickest stock possible will fit without touching the blade.  I have noticed that the cuts are more accurate and smoother.

   Thanks to all!!

1. 
   highfigh | Jan 31, 2005 08:51am | #7

   The more you use a radial arm, the faster you'll react if the blade binds and wants to crawl toward you. Not so bad if it's a low power motor, but if it's higher power(like 7.5 HP) it gets pretty hairy once the blade gets dull or gummed up.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   mike4244 | Feb 05, 2005 11:18pm | #10

   Albert, the teeth are rotating up out of the cut, opposite of a tablesaw. When you pull the carriage back the teeth are cutting down into the board. This is the only way to use a radial arm saw. When you push the carriage forward the teeth are lifting the board, DO NOT push the carriage.I do not own a radial arm anymore, used to have a 9" craftsmen about 40 years ago.

   A couple of tips. If you must rip with the saw,I would not if I had other means, use the antikickback fingers, hold downs ,feather boards etc.Radial arm saws are time consuming to square up. When cutting angles, make up a jig that holds the stock at the correct angle instead of moving the arm .The correct way to set the fence is with spacer blocks between the fence and the table.The table is usually 3/4" particle board.Cut blocks from a 3/8" x 3/4" x  1 1/2" scrap wood. Tack, glue or just tape these small blocks to the back side of the table. Put them about 6" on center. Put fence against the blocks and tighten the clamps. Now when you saw the sawdust goes thru the space left between the fence and table, no byuildup of sawdust means more accurate work.

   The most important thing is to set the saw up out of level, about 1/4" from front to back.This prevents the carriage from moving towards you by itself.

   mike

4. 
   woodensplinter | Jan 30, 2005 12:45pm | #4

   From a safety standpoint, I'd be carefull about having the fence positioned too close to the post.  Make certain the entire blade is behind the fence in the "start" position.  I followed the manufacturer's recommendation on a secondary fence position to allow for a wider crosscut.  They specified this using nominal 1" material.  What I found was that, when using thicker (2X) stock, the blade actually extended far enough past the fence to touch the wood!  Needless to say, I don't use this fence location any more.  (I like my fingers.)

5. 
   RickL | Jan 31, 2005 06:01pm | #8

   No mention was made of blade type. A negative hook blade is the recommended type of blade.  Less tendency to climb over the board.

1. 
   Vikingvood | Feb 05, 2005 08:43pm | #9

   I will second the requirement for a negitive hook blade, I cut thick timbers/beams   6"-7" thick for bowl blanks on my old delta saw in one pass , I use a Systamatic blade  with negitve hook now & it has very little tendancy to climb towards me.