I purchased a versa-feeder a few months back and am finally getting some time to install it on a shaper. (I couldn’t afford a “real” feeder, so that part of the discussion is off the table — at least for now! <g>)
Does anyone here have experience in adjusting the machine for feeding operations? Among other things, I’m trying to figure out what elevation to set the feed wheels at relative to stock thickness, etc.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Replies
I am not a user of the versa feeder but this may help.On our full size feeders we set up with the wheels 1/4 " lower than the material and 1/4 toe in towards the fence.That way the material is pressed to the table and fed into the fence as it progresses through the shaper.Read about shaper set up very carefully before trying climb cuts .If your power feed has not enough power /grip the resulting accident will make table saw amputations/kickback very mundane.We calculated that a 1 by 3 by 48 inch piece of oak was doing 110 mph when it left the shaper!Get onto Delta and get all their info re your specific model and if you can look at the manuals for the other models on the web.
Thanks, that helps some. The manual mentions orienting the feeder a few degrees towards the fence so that the stock stays tight against it. However, it makes no mention of how low to set the wheels. I'll try a 1/4" and see how it works.
I'm using a 2" diameter cutter at 8,000 rpm, so the tip velocity will "only" be 48 mph (provided that the cutter actually runs at nameplate rpm while under load). That must have been a big cutterhead you guys were using to get up to 110 mph! Hopefully no one was in the way when that piece was launched through the shop. At any rate, I'll make sure I always stand out of the way.
You probably are aware of keeping the table and fence waxed and remember that the force of a power feed can move the fence into the cutter if it is not tight.Also double check set up before running .Work safe and live!!
Jako and Mike (and others):
I've got a can of Briwax -- is that a good lubricant to use on the table and fence?
Yes any non silicone furniture wax polish will work
ragnar
1/4" lower than the stock might be too much for the Versa Feeder. I have Delta 1/4 HP 3 wheel feeder and I set it about 1/16 - 1/8" below the stock.
Making sure the bed is slick is probably the best information in this thread._________________________________
Michael in San Jose
"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell
I've been using the Versa feeder for a couple of years. I think you will be pleased with it, even though it is a little light weight. I use it on my table saw, shaper, router tables. Because I move it around, I chose to use the mounting plate instead of bolting to a machine. You may want to think about that before you drill your machine tables.
The rollers work best if they are flat to, and in equal contact with the work piece. My router table is homemade (easy to replace) so I drilled the top. I found that I could not get the wheels flat in all positions, for various stock thicknesses, from the one location. That's when I switched to the mounting plate. I also opened the bend in the overarm a few degrees, which made a big difference in versatility.
When I set up, I place a piece of the stock I'm working, under the rollers and hold the machine tight to it as I set the lock levers. As the manual shows, you set the wheels half way to the cutters, so they will complete the cut and push your piece past. There is some slop in the strength of the overarm assembly, it often will drop slightly when the piece of stock is taken out from under it. Make sure on your set ups, that the machine won't hit the cutters, if it were to drop to the table. This little drop is often enough to set the "elevation". Sometimes I have to use a piece of 5/8" to set up for 3/4". If the overarm is set short, you only need the rollers about 1/8" less in height than your stock. That can change with what you are doing.
The lock on the ball can change the setting as you tighten it. I will leave the other adjustment locks semi-loose and tighten the ball lever first. As someone else said, the front toes in about a quarter toward the fence. As you tighten all the levers, the setting you wanted can change, this is one of the machines quirks. Often just loosening and re-tightening will correct the problem. Other times you have to start over. You will get the hang of it pretty soon, they are more forgiving than the heavier industrial feeders.
Thanks for all the info, Hammer. When I was dinking around with the feeder last night, I started doing the same procedure you described -- it's good to know I'm on the right track.
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