Replies

1. 
   heartwould | Aug 12, 2008 12:06am | #1

   Amazon is offering the 34-184 (that replaced your model) for $113.97. I'm not sure what the market would bear for a used 34-172.

1. 
   bcool | Aug 16, 2008 11:11pm | #6

   Interesting, I have a 34-182 that I inherited from my brother-in-law, right now it's set up for a right tilt saw, I have a left tilt Unisaw and was wondering if any knew how to set it up for a left tilt saw, or even if it is possible. Buck

1. 
   RalphBarker | Aug 17, 2008 01:38am | #7

   I'm not sure that left vs. right tilt matters, since most tenoning would be done with the blade square to the table. Yes? No?

1. 
   bcool | Aug 17, 2008 04:13am | #8

   Believe me it matters, the left tilt Unisaw's sawblade ends up being farther away from the miter gage slot, far enough away that you couldn't put a tenon on a 3/4" rail. My partner runs the jig in the right slot and backwards, which I refuse to do, the only thing I can think of is to make a spacer, essentially to fur it out, to move the workpiece over enough to get in cutting zone

1. 
   RalphBarker | Aug 17, 2008 04:25am | #9

   Yes, I wouldn't run it backwards, either - even though some are more sensitive to wooden stakes through the heart than others. ;-)If the blade to miter slot spacing is too large, making a custom auxiliary base to relocate the guide bar sounds like the best idea.

2. 
   Tinkerer3 | Aug 17, 2008 04:44am | #10

   I had to bore new holed in the thing to fit my PM66.

2. 
   JamesS | Aug 19, 2008 05:36am | #15

   Ralph:  With a Delta, the left tilt puts the blade coupla inches away from normal.

   James

2. 
   JamesS | Aug 19, 2008 02:23am | #14

   bcool

   I ave a left tilt also. What I had to do was put two (2) layers of ply blocks on the face of the tenon jig to bring it closer to the saw blade. I didn't lose too much of the "operating" space, but I still had enough room for what I do. If I was in FL I'd send a pic showing the buildup.

   James

1. 
   bcool | Aug 19, 2008 03:05pm | #18

   I'm guessing that you bored and tapped holes for machine screws. I think that your solution is probably the best way to go. The only drawback would be capacity, but for most jobs would probably be sufficient. thanks

1. 
   JamesS | Aug 19, 2008 04:32pm | #20

   bcool:   No I didin't have to bore and tap holes. They were already there so I just put machine screws thru the ply w/ nuts, (counter sunk holes & BRASS screws.

   James

2. 
   bcool | Aug 21, 2008 06:08am | #23

   Cool, I just went out and checked mine out and sure enough there are holes already bored. I was wondering what you did with the backstop.

    I measured a little over an inch to the blade with the jig adjusted all the way to the right. So I guess two pieces of 1/2" baltic birch ply sould do it. Thanks for the advice, I was about ready to sell it and buy a new one.  Buck

3. 
   JamesS | Aug 21, 2008 08:35pm | #24

   bcool:  I made a "new" back stop attached to the "ply" end. Sorry I forgot to mention that. I think the backstop was glued & small BRASS screws. I used brass just in case the blade hit them, (not likely), but brass won't hurt carbide.

   James

4. 
   bcool | Aug 22, 2008 03:11pm | #26

   Yeah, I guess that's the easiest way to handle it. And it's rare if ever that you would need to make angled tenons. once again thanks for the info.

2. 
   Don01 | Aug 12, 2008 01:14am | #2

   Did you use yours much?

1. 
   Prado | Aug 12, 2008 02:55am | #4

   Since I purchased it, and whenever I've had to make any tenons, I reach for the 172 over the Asian import. I didn't look for the 172 actually, it just came w/ an assortment of tools that I had to purchase in order to get what I was really after.Once the metal rectangular rod that holds the carriage square and in place was cleaned and oiled the jig works great. It's obviously got more mass and makes pushing the material over the blade much easier.So, yeah I do use it but would have kept on using the Asian import just as well. Actually, it's easier to fine tune the Asian import.Considering its low purchase price (for me) and the estimated high purchase price (for everyone else) I'm glad to have it and to use it.Did I answer your question?

1. 
   Don01 | Aug 12, 2008 06:14am | #5

   Yes. I bought a King. Haven't used it at all as yet. Well I tried it but that project feel to the wayside. I'll resurect it one day though.Thanks for the info.Don

   Edited 8/11/2008 11:14 pm by Don01

3. 
   RalphBarker | Aug 12, 2008 01:40am | #3

   Apparently, the heavy model 172 has some appeal over the lighter new model. Someone mentioned in another thread that he had seen them in medium condition go for as much as $400 on eBay.

4. 
   9619 | Aug 17, 2008 07:40pm | #11

   Prado,
   I second Raplh's opinion. I have seen them go on EBay for more than $400 in medium condition. The reason they don't go often is because there ain't many around. That thing is a keeper. When they stopped making them, they were retailing for over $500 apiece. To me, it is a beautiful tool. It is simple, strong and straightforward. You don't need no stinkin' manual to use it. :-)
   Have fun.
   Mel

   Measure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   Prado | Aug 17, 2008 09:40pm | #12

   this is nice to know.
   It makes up for great deals I was to naive to recognize:1. A biesemeyer fence for $50
   2. A delta bandsaw for $75
   3. A 64 Chevy short bed for $700--this one still breaks my heartOh well, win some, lose some!

1. 
   9619 | Aug 18, 2008 01:11am | #13

   Prado,
   As you have described,
   Life is a series of opportunities. I'd like to do it again, knowing what I know now. Too bad it won't happen.
   Have fun.
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

5. 
   oldusty | Aug 19, 2008 06:38am | #16

       I always wanted one , twenty bucks bought this old anchor .

                             dusty

   
1. 
   Prado | Aug 19, 2008 07:55am | #17

   show off!I've got a machinist style screw in place to the left of the handle.
   I suppose that is to pre-set the cut.But I can't seem to lock the top portion in place w/ it.Any suggestions..?Thanks!

2. 
   heartwould | Aug 19, 2008 03:14pm | #19

   The way your new acquisition is painted, it looks like it may have once belonged to the U.S. Navy. It should give you many years of good service--congratulations!

1. 
   oldusty | Aug 19, 2008 04:56pm | #21

   Thanks, I got it about a year ago ,the funny thing is that it seems to match my 1944 circa Unisaw   , it fit good in the grooves even though I have never used it I'll bet it works good .Now I guess I have to use it .

                       dusty

1. 
   heartwould | Aug 19, 2008 05:04pm | #22

   I suspect that they are about the same vintage. Let me know how it works for you!

3. 
   9619 | Aug 22, 2008 06:00am | #25

   Dusty,
   Want to double your money on the old anchor? :-)
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.